Defender 110 Clutch Problem

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Trickyzxr

Trickyzxr

Member
Posts
18
Hi All,

Firstly thanks in advance for any help given.

So, I was driving my 110 on a very hot day in M25 traffic jam. The clutch pedal seemed a little different that day and started to get spongey. Eventually it started to get hard to put in gear and finally the pedal just travelled to the floor and I was not able to change gear. I have checked for leaks and the resevoir whilst needing a little top up I think was ok and I cant find any leaks. I cant see any visible broken bits. Any suggestions on what I should try first please or what the problem could be?

Thanks

Richard
 
hi richard it sounds like your pivot ball has gone through your release fork, or possibly a faile cylinder. 1 way of checking this is not very safe, but if you park on a slope with your vehicle in gear, your handbrake on and a chock behind each wheel (for extra safety) then unbolt your slave cylinder and can manage to push the fork, if the vehicle moves slightly you know the problem is from the pedal to the master cylinder. if nothing happens it is in the gearbox section. could also be a spring has popped out of your drive plate or realease bearing has worn. hope this helps?
 
08mckerp said:
i would love to see a health and safety report on tht method :D
Click to expand...
:eek: Need I say more on H&S?

Due to the spongy feel described I suspect hydraulic failure. It could be the master cylinder which can fail to shift the clutch but not leak fluid. Get someone to depress the clutch pedal while you watch the slave cylinder, it should move around an inch and start to move the moment the pedal is pressed. I suggest this is best done with the engine stopped and the hand brake applied. ;) This kind of fault is most likely on a high mileage / stop start vehicle say 80,000 miles plus. You mentioned the M25.
 
RR,

Thanks for your suggestions. I was mulling over taking the unit that is on the side of the box that looks like it is the piston / rod that pushes the fork in. Is this what you are refering to?


Graham,

Thanks to you too. Are you refering to the unit that is where you top up the clutch fluid? If it is I have looked there but cant see anything that looks like it moves due to it being all cover up?


Would either of you be able to post a picture of the areas to look at if possible please? Then I can get my parnter to push the clutch down after she has made the coffee's!!!

Thanks.
 
if you remove the slave cylinder you will not be able to push the clutch enough to disengage, its far too stiff.

Simple check to see if the master cylinder is working. Get assistant to operate the pedal, and watch the flexi hose by the slave cylinder (gearbox end) it should move slightly with the pressure.

Takes about an hr to replace a master clylinder, cost about £25. My moneys on that.
 
Hi,

OK so had my assistant, muinto bonita biker babe!!!, press the clutch pedal a few times but could not see the pipe move. Undid the bleed niple a little and put a bleed pipe on. She then pumped the clutch and nothing was coming out. I undid it xa lot more and finally some fluid came out. Tightened up but pedal still travels to the floor with no resistance. Does this mean the master cylinder where you fill up the fluid is kaput?

Can this be dismantled and repaired or is it a replacement jobbie?

Thanks.

Richard
 
that means that your master cylinder, where the fluid goes, is ****ed.

You can re-seal them, but the kits from what i've heard dnt last long, and for the sake of price go 4 a new one. Dnt get a ****part one though, get a lucas/girling one, and get it all set up and bled up. Well easy to do, i did mine outside me mates house in about half an hour.

If you want a hand, where bouts you based?
 
Oh wow 2008! So long ago. Update to this was slave cylinder had a slight leak that i only noticed as I was dropping the box to check the arm the slave cylinder pushes again. Too late by then box was out! Serviced it whilst out and good practice whilst on holiday lol!
 
Hi all,

Another revival just not 11 years this time lol! I should be in a boy band lol!!!!

So yesterday out and about after a shot blast down the motorway pushed my clutch down and had a lot of travel before disengaging! Luckily I was able to complete journey and get her back in garage to investigate.
As have already replaced slave unit in 2009 I decided to go straight master cylinder as it was not pushing the arm in cylinder back out. Stripping it down today, I found the spring inside had snapped into three pieces!!! Luckily yesterday this gave me just enough to get in gear and a bite point about 5mm off the floor!!

On her she has what I think is the original 1991 Girling master cylinder but these are pretty expensive.
Has anyone replaced one of these and knows the following please?

1. Is a Trw Lucas Clutch Master Cylinder Series 3 and 90/110 Oe and 2.6 Series 2A Part No. STC500100G a direct replacement and is it a complete unit, from Craddocks, with the threaded arm that connects to the top of the pedal please?

2. I want to get a Adapter for Pipe to Clutch Master Cylinder as mine seemed to be a little wobbly when in was inside her but did go tight out of her!!!! ;-) I noticed on Craddocks when looking for parts that their was a washer available for this adapter but when I removed mine it had no washer. So should it have a washer or not please?

Think that's it if you can share your thoughts / knowledge please or if there is anything else I should get whilst its off please?

Oh forgot but off topic of clutch but sort of linked, under the clutch, brake, and throttle there is a plate in front of the one that is under you feet which goes up behind the pedals. Got a few holes in it and I know everyone is going to start talking bulkhead, but is this panel a bolt off bolt on panel or do I need to get my welder out please?

Thank you.
 
Last edited:
Trickyzxr said:
Hi all,

Another revival just not 11 years this time lol! I should be in a boy band lol!!!!

So yesterday out and about after a shot blast down the motorway pushed my clutch down and had a lot of travel before disengaging! Luckily I was able to complete journey and get her back in garage to investigate.
As have already replaced slave unit in 2009 I decided to go straight master cylinder as it was not pushing the arm in cylinder back out. Stripping it down today, I found the spring inside had snapped into three pieces!!! Luckily yesterday this gave me just enough to get in gear and a bite point about 5mm off the floor!!

On her she has what I think is the original 1991 Girling master cylinder but these are pretty expensive.
Has anyone replaced one of these and knows the following please?

1. Is a Trw Lucas Clutch Master Cylinder Series 3 and 90/110 Oe and 2.6 Series 2A Part No. STC500100G a direct replacement and is it a complete unit, from Craddocks, with the threaded arm that connects to the top of the pedal please?

2. I want to get a Adapter for Pipe to Clutch Master Cylinder as mine seemed to be a little wobbly when in was inside her but did go tight out of her!!!! ;-) I noticed on Craddocks when looking for parts that their was a washer available for this adapter but when I removed mine it had no washer. So should it have a washer or not please?

Think that's it if you can share your thoughts / knowledge please or if there is anything else I should get whilst its off please?

Oh forgot but off topic of clutch but sort of linked, under the clutch, brake, and throttle there is a plate in front of the one that is under you feet which goes up behind the pedals. Got a few holes in it and I know everyone is going to start talking bulkhead, but is this panel a bolt off bolt on panel or do I need to get my welder out please?

Thank you.
Click to expand...
Update: The spring in master cylinder had snapped in to 3 pieces and managed to lodge themselves together just enough to change gear. New master cylinder and good as new.
 
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