defender 110 1990 - cutting out and now wont start

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M

maarons

Member
Posts
10
Hi

Any help gratefully appreciated here.

So driving home yesterday, i experienced the engine cutting out, no power, just glided to a halt. Turned the key and it took a while to catch with a lot of revs but managed to get going. Drove about 400 yards before the same happened again, and again and again, but each time travelling a shorter distance.

Thinking it was probably lack of diesel or overheating, though the gauges didn't say as much, I left it and went to get some fuel which took a few hours as I had to walk.

Filled it up, checked the oil too, all fine. So started it and then drove home without incident, taking only 5 minutes.

Then went to start it up a few hours later on to check it, and its dead. Lights and gauges work and come on, but not even a click when I turn the key.

My thoughts are battery, but would that lead to the cutting out experienced earlier on that day?

Any thoughts before I go out and spend £200 on a new battery?

I am a bit of novice under the hood so please be gentle.

thanks
Mike
 
maarons said:
Hi

Any help gratefully appreciated here.

So driving home yesterday, i experienced the engine cutting out, no power, just glided to a halt. Turned the key and it took a while to catch with a lot of revs but managed to get going. Drove about 400 yards before the same happened again, and again and again, but each time travelling a shorter distance.

Thinking it was probably lack of diesel or overheating, though the gauges didn't say as much, I left it and went to get some fuel which took a few hours as I had to walk.

Filled it up, checked the oil too, all fine. So started it and then drove home without incident, taking only 5 minutes.

Then went to start it up a few hours later on to check it, and its dead. Lights and gauges work and come on, but not even a click when I turn the key.

My thoughts are battery, but would that lead to the cutting out experienced earlier on that day?

Any thoughts before I go out and spend £200 on a new battery?

I am a bit of novice under the hood so please be gentle.

thanks
Mike
Click to expand...

Diesels should run without a battery, so shouldn't be that. I would try jump starting to see if it is just a flat battery that is stopping it starting.

No ideas about the cutting out though.
 
small update.

Actually I can hear a click when I turn the key, and it looks like the battery is fine, showing 12.3v.

So, excuse my ignorance, you are suggesting that i connect the jump leads to the solenoid or from another car to my battery?

will let you know how i get on.
 
Last edited:
No, not suggesting that. If the starter motor isn't turning now, then that needs investigating. Check and clean live connection and earth. Don't short the live connector to the body! Or any other metal.
The stop solenoid is a small solenoid actuated valve in the fuel line that opens when you turn ignition on. When you turn the key off it closes, cutting the fuel supply and so stops the engine. The little live spade connector to this may have worked loose, corroded etc. Often though, the valve itself builds up dirt and the solenoid can't open it. If power to the valve is unreliable then when the voltage drops the valve shuts and your truck grinds to a halt.
 
okay, that makes sense to me and would explain the cutting out. I will check it out.

Would the engine still turn over even though the fuel is not coming through?

thanks btw. My understanding of the problem is growing.
 
Yes, it will turn over until your battery goes flat. But it won't start if the stop solenoid isn't opening. Do you know where it is? I'll see if I have a picture.
 
Here you go mate.
This picture shows you generally where it is. Not a great picture for referencing things cos it's not in the Landy! The expansion bottle is hanging in the way a bit, but there is an arrow pointing it out.
engine_zps869b3053.jpg


This one is from underneath. The black outline arrow shows the solenoid valve and the arrow with the white middle is pointing to the spade connector that pushes on to the top of it. My connector has a black plastic cover and so does not show up well in the pic.
Stopsolenoid_zpsf9bca429.jpg

Mine is a 97 300TDi and I am not sure how it will differ from yours. If yours is a late 1990 model it might be a 200TDi and similar to mine. Not sure about the earlier TD's
 
Mate, you are a legend, I started the search for it this morning and didn't know even know the rough location. At least now I have something to aim for.

thank you so much. it is REALLY appreciated.

mike
 
Last edited:
No worries.
Let us know how you get on. There are many on here who have forgotten more than I know, so you should get sorted. :)
 
Okay found the part, the stop solenoid. Cable is attached securely, so no quick win.

I will try and jumpstart it later on. See if that makes a difference
 
You can get a length of wire. Bare each end. Pull the connector off the end of the stop solenoid. Shove one end of the wire in the connector, hold the other end on the side of a 12v bulb and touch the bottom of the bulb on a bare metal part of the body. Get someone to turn the ignition just to on (pointless trying to start it as the stop solenoid does not have it's live feed) if the bulb lights up with the ignition on then the solenoid is getting power. it could still be sticking though.
However, you'll probably have to investigate that you are actually getting fuel delivered and that the lift pump is working ok.
 
we have resolution, thanks to my neighbor.

So after locating the starter, it turns out it was only a lead that had fallen off it. Placing it back on resolved the problem. Something so simple.

as for the cutting out issue, that seems to have resolved itself. perhaps there was muck in the tank, who knows. It works again so I dont have a 2 tonne inert lump of metal in my driveway.

thanks for your help all. Have learned a lot digging around under the bonnet.
 
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