dead driver's side window

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sadsack

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38
2006 TD4.
Searched the forums and found a lot of useful advice on changing cables, etc.... but just before i wade in and take off the door panel to look, I just wanted to check something out.
When I say the window is dead I mean it's fully down and makes no noise at all when I try to power it up.
Does that still mean broken cable or likewise?
I'm just surprised the window motor doesnt make any noise whatsoever when I press the button...:confused:
 
hi

To be honest I wouldnt know, the only thing is my passenger rear window is in the same sorry state, except if I press the button it does make a noise, like the motor is going but there is no movement.
 
one of the first jobs I had to fix on my heap was a knackered passenger window.I took it to the dealer :doh: it cost me €100 or more +fat to be told it was a burnt out switch.Its very easy to take out the switch and open it up and check the seesaw type connections if for nothing else but to give them a clean.A new switch should cost well under a fiver.
 
I've just had the same problem.
Pressed the switch for the window down, and there was a twang! as the cable snapped.
After that the motor didn't drive. It turned out the cable had jammed the mechanism and physically prevented the motor turning.

I got a repair kit for £20 off e-bay, and have done the repair today.
It was a bit of pig to be honest. Lots of messing around with epoxy resin, a tin can, and a hairdryer to fix the cable stop ends to the cables.
It took me 3 hours, but at least it's sorted.
 
i had a problem with my windows it was the buttons. i swapped left and right wiring assembly connects - and was able to use both windows in this fashion.
havent had my 2003 freelander in 6months but it shows up monday. just saying i forget where that left off
 
I understand that it is a prevelant problem for the cables to rot/snap/jam - in all my Freelander has had three done (by the previous owner thank goodness) but changing the switch would be a good, low cost, starter for ten i'd suggest...but then, what do I know
 
just updating...
checked the switch, seems ok... couldn't see how to put the passenger side one into my dead driver's side, as its a different piece.:confused:
The drivers side has all 5 switches clicked on to one circuit board while the passenger side is only one?
So.... I took out the window mechanism completely thinking to change the cables follwing advice on this forum...
(good link here on that even though it's an old 1998 model Changing a Window Regulator on a 1998 5 Door Land Rover Freelander 1.8)
BUT am still confused. No broken cables, seem fine.
So another question to the wise... to work out if the cables are jammed... where would they normally jam? and should I be able to move them freely on the regulator mechanism or are they only activated by the motor? As it is now I can't move them.
the motor makes a quite little click when it gets power so it doesn't seem to be broken!
 
Download a copy of RAVE check in the wiring section which two coloured wires you need to put power and earth on to move the motor and see if it moves, if you reverse the wires it should go the other way.
 
"RAVE2" is the one you need for a Freelander1 - which is 421Mb in size and an easy download. The rear pain is finding a good .iso file reader without falling foul of spam and 'stiffening agent' adverts. One would recommend 7Zip as a good solution to extract the files you need.....Sorry that I have nothing technical to add.
 
it's worth just replacing the whole window regulator unit I think for sake of 70 quid. Have had to do 3 on the missus's hippo now (both front, and one rear). the old ones were a real mess and wouldn't have fancied messing about with a new cable.

incidentally if you are testing to see which way is up and down having chopped the original landy plug off the cable and replaced with the different connector supplied with aftermarket regulators, the rear ones will not respond to the switches between the front passsenger seats unless the switch in the rear door trim panel is also plugged in. that one took a bit of head scratching and fuse checking before I realised!
 
it's normally worth just replacing the whole window regulator unit I think for sake of 70 quid. Have had to do 3 on the missus's hippo now (both front, and one rear). the old ones were a real mess and wouldn't have fancied messing about with a new cable.

incidentally if you are testing to see which way is up and down having chopped the original landy plug off the cable and replaced with the different connector supplied with aftermarket regulators, the rear ones will not respond to the switches between the front passsenger seats unless the switch in the rear door trim panel is also plugged in. that one took a bit of head scratching and fuse checking before I realised!
 
I fixed my drivers window regulator with left over cable fromthe tailgate wire.It had the hex stopperstill attached and I just heated and sweated some solder into the other T shaped stop,leaving a bit sticking out the end,I roughed it up and got some solder onto it.
I hope that makes sense and I wish I'd tried to fix the tailgate reg at the time it broke,oh I did but I tried it with stainless wire that was about .5mm larger diameter.Northern Irelander I think has a thread on how to fix a reg and some guy called vader? something had a very detailed step by step with good photo's
 
if you have voltage on your switch and voltage comes out it should be ok, if the cable is broken you would think you will still hear the motor.

maybe the conetction to the motor? Check if you get voltage at the motor when you hit the switch.

if yes and you do not see a broken cable the motor is dead.
 
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