dead battery

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wickford90

Well-Known Member
Posts
3,623
Location
wickford essex
ok. off roading yesterday and battery warning light came on. (90 td5 2001)
no signs up to now of any problem, turned off everything that was drawing power and i got home ok. this morning dead. have recently put a fuse box and a couple of relays under the bonnet, these were covered in crap could this have caused a drain. batt on charge now any ideas please ???
thank you
 
What's the fuse box and a couple of relays under the bonnet for?

Did you use a voltmeter and confirm the alternator is charging the battery properly? If so, what are the readings etc?
 
What's the fuse box and a couple of relays under the bonnet for?

Did you use a voltmeter and confirm the alternator is charging the battery properly? If so, what are the readings etc?

fuse box and relays for additional lights.
don't know if i have a volt metre. i have some thing that can check if something is live. battery is off at the moment being charged.
how would you use a volt metre does the battery have to be on the car
 
A cheap multimeter will do the job, so long as it can read volts accurately (like, to 1 decimal place but preforably 2 decimal places).

I'd take a whole series of voltmeter readings to establish the general health of the electrical system, for example:

1. Battery voltage before starting
2. Battery voltage just after starting

1. should be 12.6-12.8V (a fully charged battery is 12.8V or so) 2. should be around 13-14V initially, although once the main input into the battery has dropped down, it will settle to low 13s.

Also they're useful for monitoring if a battery gradually loses charge.

Don't forget to allow for "surface charge" of the battery - just after its charged, it will read an artificially high voltage, but once significant current is drawn from the battery without recharge, it will drop to a more meaningful figure.

The battery doesn't need to be fitted to the vehicle but if its not, you can't check the charging system, only the health of the battery. Plenty of battery faults are charging faults which cause the battery to be discharged. Once left in a discharged state, chemical reactions within the battery permanently harm it so it can no longer hold decent charge.
 
A cheap multimeter will do the job, so long as it can read volts accurately (like, to 1 decimal place but preforably 2 decimal places).

I'd take a whole series of voltmeter readings to establish the general health of the electrical system, for example:

1. Battery voltage before starting
2. Battery voltage just after starting

1. should be 12.6-12.8V (a fully charged battery is 12.8V or so) 2. should be around 13-14V initially, although once the main input into the battery has dropped down, it will settle to low 13s.

Also they're useful for monitoring if a battery gradually loses charge.

Don't forget to allow for "surface charge" of the battery - just after its charged, it will read an artificially high voltage, but once significant current is drawn from the battery without recharge, it will drop to a more meaningful figure.

The battery doesn't need to be fitted to the vehicle but if its not, you can't check the charging system, only the health of the battery. Plenty of battery faults are charging faults which cause the battery to be discharged. Once left in a discharged state, chemical reactions within the battery permanently harm it so it can no longer hold decent charge.

will leave on charge till morning that will be a 24 hour charge. if voltage is around 12.8 battery is ok ?

if the warning light stays on when refitted and on tick over then its a charging fault
thanks for that will let all know the outcome.
 
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