Series 2 Date my pumps (with the ghost of Cilla Black?)

G'day folks,

This could be a lorra lorra fun...

...Question #1 =>

Does anyone here know how to date Lucas DPA injector pumps?

I've got two.

One is labeled as "Made in Spain"







The other one is labeled as "Made in England" - so I guess this one is earlier







Question #2 =>

I'm gonna reseal the older looking one ("Made in England") following this 'ere =>



Does any one here know which DPA sealing kit I ought to get?

http://www.dieselkontor.de/index.php?cPath=22_137

The options in the link above are DPA 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5

The pumps are only labeled as DPA...

Stretch said:

G'day folks,

This could be a lorra lorra fun...

...Question #1 =>

Does anyone here know how to date Lucas DPA injector pumps?

I've got two.

One is labeled as "Made in Spain"

The other one is labeled as "Made in England" - so I guess this one is earlier

Question #2 =>

I'm gonna reseal the older looking one ("Made in England") following this 'ere =>



Does any one here know which DPA sealing kit I ought to get?

http://www.dieselkontor.de/index.php?cPath=22_137

The options in the link above are DPA 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5

The pumps are only labeled as DPA...

Click to expand...

The code on the plates should contain a date in coded form. There should be a table on the net that tells you how to decode.

My own opinion would be that you are wasting your time doing that. It is unlikely the pump will run right, unless you have a test machine to set it up. Even if it does, I have never known diy recons last very long.

I would take the best looking one, bite the bullet, and put it in for professional recon. A decent job will cost at least £400 quid, any less will probably not last either.

Turboman said:

The code on the plates should contain a date in coded form. There should be a table on the net that tells you how to decode.

My own opinion would be that you are wasting your time doing that. It is unlikely the pump will run right, unless you have a test machine to set it up. Even if it does, I have never known diy recons last very long.

I would take the best looking one, bite the bullet, and put it in for professional recon. A decent job will cost at least £400 quid, any less will probably not last either.

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Sound advice...

...that I normally give (on Mercedes forums)...

...but this time I'm not going to take it just yet!

I want to play - I have two pumps so I can afford to bugger one up. The older pump was removed for a reason - and that could be because it has already been messed about with (wire locking is gone).

Do you happen to know which reseal kit would be appropriate for the pump(s) I have?

Stretch said:

Sound advice...

...that I normally give (on Mercedes forums)...

...but this time I'm not going to take it just yet!

I want to play - I have two pumps so I can afford to bugger one up. The older pump was removed for a reason - and that could be because it has already been messed about with (wire locking is gone).

Do you happen to know which reseal kit would be appropriate for the pump(s) I have?

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Not exactly. But it is one of the first five, mechanical governors.
I think the internal parts and seals are all the same in those kits, the difference is in the gaskets where the pump fits the engine, and where individual fuel pipes come in.
Basically, the pumps are all the same, just configured for different applications.

Can you measure the three cornered gasket on yours, and ring them up and ask them to measure the ones in the kits? That should identify the right one.

Fantastic!!!
someone is going to have a play with a pump

If while you tinker, you happen to find out what thread the stuff nut is that holds your fuel delivery line, please please please let me know. Mine has been weeping for months and the thread is caput. It also sits in a one way valve like yours but I would love to simply replace it with one of these.

Turboman said:

...
Can you measure the three cornered gasket on yours, and ring them up and ask them to measure the ones in the kits? That should identify the right one.

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I've just sent them an email - may be I'll get a response.

Bobsticle said:

Fantastic!!!
someone is going to have a play with a pump

If while you tinker, you happen to find out what thread the stuff nut is that holds your fuel delivery line, please please please let me know. Mine has been weeping for months and the thread is caput. It also sits in a one way valve like yours but I would love to simply replace it with one of these.

Click to expand...

As usual I'll be a bit on the slow side - so don't expect immediate progress - gonna go and buy a parts washer first me thinks...

...I'll remember your request, even though I haven't a clue what you mean just yet - I'm sure it will become apparent when I start pulling it to bits.

Only thing i recall about them is when they came out they were a pain in the arse. And possibly still are. Tended to fill vehicle sumps with diesel on a regular basis..

I can imagine the vertical position of the pump didn't help. The CAV pump fitted to the tractor in the video linked above was at least horizontal so I guess you'd get less dripping in the sump that way if it was going to leak under low pressure.

Anyway - got a super fast response from the dieselkonto people - they don't have a kit that is suitable for the Land Rover so that's the end of that. I'm now chasing down a kit of ebay.

Stretch said:

I can imagine the vertical position of the pump didn't help. The CAV pump fitted to the tractor in the video linked above was at least horizontal so I guess you'd get less dripping in the sump that way if it was going to leak under low pressure.

Anyway - got a super fast response from the dieselkonto people - they don't have a kit that is suitable for the Land Rover so that's the end of that. I'm now chasing down a kit of ebay.

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You are right, the pump is better mounted horizontally, and ideally driven by a case full of timing gears. That is how it is on my Massey, and on many old tractors I have owned.

Just a thought, but I don't get pump bits off the net.
If a pump is old and tired, I just put it in for recon. But if it is a simple leak, like from the governor housing seals where the shaft goes in, I repair them under as clean conditions as humanly possible.
I get the gaskets and seals from the fuel injection place that does the recons when needed.

No idea how easy this would be in your location, but sometimes with old stuff personal contact is very helpful.

Turboman said:

...
No idea how easy this would be in your location, but sometimes with old stuff personal contact is very helpful.

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Yep I know what you mean. It took ages to find a decent machining shop - there only seem to be a few diesel injection pump people who get mentioned with any regard in Holland. One is in Gouda which in Dutch terms is on the other side of the planet from where I am - and with the traffic as it is here I'm not even going to bother going there!

There's no great stress with this little side-line => Ultimately this is just ****ing about and playing. I need a break from the constant de-rusting and repainting. Soon I'll be welding which is nice for a bit but that also wears thin after a while. So what's better? Arsing about with injector pumps sounds like a plan to me! (Don't forget I've got another pump that will probably "do a trip")

Stretch said:

Yep I know what you mean. It took ages to find a decent machining shop - there only seem to be a few diesel injection pump people who get mentioned with any regard in Holland. One is in Gouda which in Dutch terms is on the other side of the planet from where I am - and with the traffic as it is here I'm not even going to bother going there!

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Not a lot better over here now, the bottom line is that this is old kit now, and the people who are skilled with it are packing in or dieing. There is good place about ten miles from here, another in Bodmin, those are the only two in Cornwall I would use.

If you do get round to the rebuild, try and get the Cav rebuild manuals, if you cant I can send a copy. Pay special attention to the section about how to work on the pumps. Their obsessiveness about clean is justified, the slightest bit of grit, lint etc within the pump internals will knacker it again very quickly.

Stretch said:

I've just sent them an email - may be I'll get a response.



As usual I'll be a bit on the slow side - so don't expect immediate progress - gonna go and buy a parts washer first me thinks...

...I'll remember your request, even though I haven't a clue what you mean just yet - I'm sure it will become apparent when I start pulling it to bits.

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Its the screw the chap has his finger on on the video still. It accepts the plastic pipe from the lift pump and squishes it when tightened. The first longer section is a one way valve and the second shorter section is just an adapter. I need to replace the male nut that squishes. Its thread has been stripped so I was thinking of replacing it with a simple push on connector but need to keep the one way valve bit.................. if only I knew what thread size it takes.

Bobsticle said:

Its the screw the chap has his finger on on the video still. It accepts the plastic pipe from the lift pump and squishes it when tightened. The first longer section is a one way valve and the second shorter section is just an adapter. I need to replace the male nut that squishes. Its thread has been stripped so I was thinking of replacing it with a simple push on connector but need to keep the one way valve bit.................. if only I knew what thread size it takes.

View attachment 110276

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Have you spoken to a Delphi agent? You should be able to buy all of that. Any fuel injection place will have the male union that nips the olive. LR parts places sell the nylon pipes ready made.

Turboman said:

Have you spoken to a Delphi agent? You should be able to buy all of that. Any fuel injection place will have the male union that nips the olive. LR parts places sell the nylon pipes ready made.

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I have been to two specialist hydraulic and pneumatic suppliers and neither could match the thread so god knows what it is. But have never contacted a Delphi agent.

Bobsticle said:

I have been to two specialist hydraulic and pneumatic suppliers and neither could match the thread so god knows what it is. But have never contacted a Delphi agent.

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Any good fuel injection place will deal, and they may well be a Delphi agent too.

Hydraulic places sell hydraulic fittings, pneumatic places sell airline parts. Fuel injection specialists sell parts for injection pumps!

Try this lot, they look OK. Plenny others on Google.

http://www.rwilkinson-diesel-stockport.co.uk/diesel-services

Bobsticle said:

... if only I knew what thread size it takes.

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Oh the guilt!

A crying face too!

(I'll have a look for you tomorrow if it stops raining - I don't go out in the rain)

Stretch said:

Oh the guilt!

A crying face too!

(I'll have a look for you tomorrow if it stops raining - I don't go out in the rain)

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There isnt a puppy with big eyes emoticon.

If it is just the male nut you can buy them here , https://www.ssldieselparts.co.uk/fuel-pipe-tube-nuts-p-382.html
only unf and metric to choose from also od of tube.
They are not expensive so get one of each.

Blackburn said:

If it is just the male nut you can buy them here , https://www.ssldieselparts.co.uk/fuel-pipe-tube-nuts-p-382.html
only unf and metric to choose from also od of tube.
They are not expensive so get one of each.

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Cheers for the link. Thats what it is but I doubt they will fit. You see the one I have is a bit different. It does not squash an olive. It seats a tailed connector inside the unit. Hard to explain so thats why I wanted to try a simple push on.
This is like what I have now............... The male nut is very shallow.


and in an ideal world....I know.........this is what I would like.



Ploke at the fitting shop said its probably some #@~>< @*""# ancient ##=@ing automotive '£$&*++ thread. but I am not that technical.

I have just ordered a half inch (whatever that means) one of each. Male nut and adapter.
God only knows if either will fit.