D2 Td5 electrical issue....help!

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

ozzilr

New Member
Posts
4
Location
Perth
Ok I've completed a pretty comprehensive rebuild on my 2002 Td5 D2 its a manual - full engine rebuild and all ancillaries uprated where necessary and as I'm in Australia did an EGR removal and a de-cat. It is fitted with the factory ICE anti-theft stuff and this was disabled a long time ago (pre-rebuild) to alleviate the horrible rolling codes that occur if something goes wrong with the key or anti-theft system.
This is my problem and I hope someone out there has come across this before and more to the point knows what it is! After the car went back together it came up with an unusual fault: The engine needed cranking quite a bit before it would start - like the starter had to wind the engine up to a certain speed before it would run, when it starts because its been cranked for several seconds and the accelerator pedal has been pressed a cloud of white smoke is produced but the engine runs clean once this has gone and no evidence of any other smoke or emissions at all after this, and engine performs well and responds to the accelerator pedal as it should (Note: all dash warning lights come on as normal and go out straight away - including the coil symbol for the glow plugs). But this fault appears intermittently: ignition on all warning lights except the glow plug symbol appear as normal engine fires first pop and runs/idles normally (no cloud of white smoke) but there is no response from the accelerator pedal - none. If I restart car and repeatedly turn the ignition off and on waiting for the glow plug symbol to re-appear the engine needs more cranking but it then responds to the accelerator pedal again...WTF! The other day I noticed once it started and was responsive to the accelerator pedal a distinctive 'click' noise was heard coming from the lower dash area in front of the driver (above the pedals) and accelerator pedal function was lost and the AC stopped working (started blowing warm air instead of the cold it had just been blowing out), no matter what I did it would not re-respond to the accel pedal. So i left it until the next day it started with the long cranking and the accel pedal was responsive as normal??? I have changed the accel pedal out for another that was tested as ok, I have swapped out most of the relays in both fuse boxes and checked all fuses. There was a low coolant alarm buzzer fitted but this has not been re-connected as the replacement silicon top hose had no bleed fitting in it! Any ideas anyone??? ...please!
 
It is indeed. Never played with a Disco 2 but is the throttle drive-by-wire? As in the throttle has a potentiometer on it to tell it how much fuel to chuck in?

Have you downloaded RAVE? Think that is available for the D2 and might have a wiring diagram for the throttle.
 
That's one 'ell of an introductory post :eek::rolleyes:
Innit just!! :eek::eek:
But a few ever so very slight issues which could be easily addressed by chopping the Disco in for a Fender :p:p
Less elecktrickery to go wrong!
However, if you download RAVE, and you are handy with leckymeters and spannering, and keepimg us informed on here, if we can't sort it out between us it can't be sorted! :cool::cool:
 
It is indeed. Never played with a Disco 2 but is the throttle drive-by-wire? As in the throttle has a potentiometer on it to tell it how much fuel to chuck in?

Have you downloaded RAVE? Think that is available for the D2 and might have a wiring diagram for the throttle.

Yes, the D2 is "drive-by-wire", the throttle pots signal the engine ECU which does the working out.
RAVE is available for the D2, and it does show the wiring for the throttle. Download from :-
http://www.green-oval.com/data/lr/rave01.iso
 
It is indeed. Never played with a Disco 2 but is the throttle drive-by-wire? As in the throttle has a potentiometer on it to tell it how much fuel to chuck in?

Have you downloaded RAVE? Think that is available for the D2 and might have a wiring diagram for the throttle.
Cheers, I'll have a look.
 
Make sure that the ECU's black plug is well connected, eventually give it some contact spray and if it is jiggle that harness where header C0287 should be while you work with the pedal cos there's where the signal splits toward the ECU, it's wrapped into a black material , see RAVE - Electrical library - Connector - C0287 to identify it
 
Make sure that the ECU's black plug is well connected, eventually give it some contact spray and if it is jiggle that harness where header C0287 should be while you work with the pedal cos there's where the signal splits toward the ECU, it's wrapped into a black material , see RAVE - Electrical library - Connector - C0287 to identify it
Thank you I'll certainly do this I am also going to remove the inside fuse box and do the same to the connections/plugs at the back with contact cleaner as I suspect these may also be contributing. I have also heard that if an alternator is not producing full charge at startup (13.6-14V) the accelerator potentiometer will not respond! Hope fully I'll get onto these jobs by next week and let you know how I get on, thanks to all for the helpful suggestions.
 
+1 ^^^^^^ Wot he said

Sounds like one of them there "Urban myths" to me.
The alternator won't provide it's full output which is around 14.5 volts or so until after the engine has started. When the engine is just cranking over it's not spinning the alternator anything like fast enough.
You might be confusing the requirement of the ECU which needs a supply voltage greater than about 10.5 volts while the engine is cranking to work correctly.
 
I recently fitted a new alt after thinking my battery failed. The first indication was the the Height Control light coming on. Couldn't understand it at first, then the 3 amigos would come up. After a while they would go out, and I didn't think much of it. Later in the week, went for a long drive, and this happened over the course of the 3-4 hours driving. Then all of a sudden, all lights came on, Sport/Manual mode flashing, and gears select display. Every couple of minutes, an alarm would sound, till eventually engine died and cut out. Completely flat battery, but I forgot to check charging and so went through this process of getting myself stranded twice, before having to get an new alt.
 
Back
Top