D2 TD5 cutting out when warm

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Ok so quick update so far with massive fingers crossed.
Had it on the comp/code reader nd reset all the shopping list of codes,faults went for a 45 minute 2 mile drive it cutout around 20-25 times :mad::mad: getting really anoyed with it limped it back to the garage connected it back up again and it turns out it was the engine crank sensor.
Replaced with a genuine landrover one and also had to repair the wire connector too as the pins had came out of the plug apparently a regular fault with them according to landrover???
Replaced both and car seams to be fine all problems seam to be gone touch wood massive fingers crossed.
Well i managed to drive it for 2 hours after fitting it nd it never cut out :D

Heres hoping its solved it all.still a bit unsure how it first said about the overboosting though.
But its working.....
Thanks for all the replys and help
Fantastic result,hope that's the final fix and she keeps going strong
 
IMO it's a confusion in terms mixing OEM, OE and Genuine which is highly exploited by part suppliers.

Make your own tests and compare any expensive Genuine LR part with the same manufacturer's cheaper OEM and i'm sure that in 90% of cases you'll clearely see the difference

I too can clarify this with respect to Quinton Hazell who in the 70's & 80's had an exhaust manufacturing plant near to me that several of my friends worked at. The factory had several production lines producing after market exhausts and silencers but they also had a line that produced for several car makers making them an OEM however the steel used in the manufacture of the genuine exhausts was 3 x as thick as that in the after market lines. Having fitted several of the cheaper QH OEM systems I can confirm they were rubbish in comparison to genuine and in some cases you were lucky if the newly fitted after market silencers made it to the next MOT.
 
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