Cylinder head removed and progressing into rebuild

jamesmartin said:

clean them up on a wire wheel till al carbons removed ,carbon only collects on the parts not running in the guide

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Brilliant cheers James. How important is the valve spring length? I've just measured a couple and they are measuring longer than the WSM states. It could be my measuring devise though.

ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90 said:

Brilliant cheers James. How important is the valve spring length? I've just measured a couple and they are measuring longer than the WSM states. It could be my measuring devise though.

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longer isnt an issue,its rare for a spring to fail

Managed to do a little over the weekend.

Got the new shells in and resealed the sump with rtv silicon. Hopefully it seals!

Cleaned up the valves with a wire brush in a drill as suggested, they all look pretty good with no pitting.
Should I also clean the valve seats in the head?

Also did a bit of tatting on the new clutch fork, reinforced it by welding a plate over the back. Then mate a plate/bracket to hold the slave cylinder push rod (idea off another forum) instead of that useless plastic clip that fails when changing the slave cylinder. (Pain in the a**e experience).

Can get some pictures up if anyone wants to see or if it would be use to anyone else...

Take care not to scratch the valve seats, but do take the opportunity to lap them in while you have it in this state of strip down, I found a video on youtube which gives a pretty good idea of the process:

I saw another one where he uses a small wire brush on a dremel type tool to clean out the ports behind the valves but I would only think of this if the ports had loose carbon in them and never let it run on the valve seats.
Pictures are always welcome post as many as you can.

raywin said:

Take care not to scratch the valve seats, but do take the opportunity to lap them in while you have it in this state of strip down, I found a video on youtube which gives a pretty good idea of the process:

I saw another one where he uses a small wire brush on a dremel type tool to clean out the ports behind the valves but I would only think of this if the ports had loose carbon in them and never let it run on the valve seats.
Pictures are always welcome post as many as you can.

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Thanks mate that's perfect. To be honest I've been avoiding lapping/grinding them in but that made it look fairly easy.
Granted he was only just cleaning them up, but I think that's all mine need in all honesty. This engine has had an EGR for 150k so the inlet bores are a sorry state.

Is there any chance of getting it wrong and ruining the Valve seal?

I think you would have to do something pretty drastic to cock it up, just keep the paste off the stem so you don't damage the valve guide, and oil the stem first so it won't pick up and get scratched, video is pretty good, just follow that.
If the inlet ports are caked up may be worth giving them a clean but be sure to get rid of all the loose stuff and blow it out well before starting on the valves.
It used to be my job when I was about 10 years old when my dad was working on an engine, the grinding paste used to come in a double ended tin with coarse in one end and fine in the other, just start with coarse and when you get a nice clean ring around the seat clean the valve and then finish it with fine to get a good seal.
It's a bit of a boring job but don't be tempted to rush it's well worth doing it correctly especial now you have done so much.

Mini update

Finally lapped the valves in today, started with course grit paste, until the note of the friction changed, repositioned and did this a few time. Then changed to fine grade paste. What do you guys think of this one?


Also cleaned up all aluminium engine parts with a wire brush in a drill, cleaned the inlet ports out on the cylinder head which were loaded with EGR junk.


Over the weekend I'll be etch priming and top coat. Then new stem seals and refit the valves.
Also going to paint the block with black enamel, then the cylinder head can go back on. Woop

Looks good, give it six months and it'll be covered in oil

ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90 said:

Mini update

Finally lapped the valves in today, started with course grit paste, until the note of the friction changed, repositioned and did this a few time. Then changed to fine grade paste. What do you guys think of this one?


Also cleaned up all aluminium engine parts with a wire brush in a drill, cleaned the inlet ports out on the cylinder head which were loaded with EGR junk.


Over the weekend I'll be etch priming and top coat. Then new stem seals and refit the valves.
Also going to paint the block with black enamel, then the cylinder head can go back on. Woop

Click to expand...

if you ensure seat and valve are clean then lap it in dry you shuld end up with a brighter ring around were they contact if its ok it wil be an unbroken ring if it has gaps you need more grinding paste ,some pastes benefit with a little thinning ie a drop of paraffin or wd etc

Can anyone tell me the size of the pipe running from the 1st injector back to the FIP in this picture please
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=3...AUICCgC&biw=360&bih=512#imgrc=FxUSFot_OfC2jM:

I've got new spill pipes between each injector, but don't fancy spending £20 just for that bit of pipe, I damaged it when removing engine.

Also how do you replace the copper washers on spill pipe unions when they don't come off the banjo .

Thanks chaps