Cylinder head removed and progressing into rebuild

Hi all
Removed the cylinder head today of the 300tdi I've just purchased.

The head gasket looked to be in perfect condition, and still had the land rover badge on the gasket. So is it likely to be the original?

Here are some pictures of the bores, there are lots of even honing marks on every cylinder. Virtually no scoring marks from the piston at all, and no polished areas. However I'm no expert.
The ridge at the top of the bore is from carbon build up, and when this is cleaned off there's no ridge at all really.
The only thing i did notice is that looking down the bore on top of the piston, there seems more of a gap on one side of the piston than the other, like it's ovaled. Is that wear or normal?






Lastly, here's a picture of the cylinder head, exactly as I removed it(untouched). The triangular rust areas are surface rust, it literally wipes off with a green brillo. Leaving very slight marks. No cracks evident, although I don't know where to look?!



After cleaning the head up carefully, it cleans up virtually as new. The carbon takes some getting off.

Can you guys give me an idea of what you think of the condition please? Is the engine in good shape or just normal?

Many thanks in advance

Did you do a compression test before you stripped it?

Cheers

Doesn't look bad, it isn't as easy to say from pics as if you can touch it.

Cracking on landrover engines is usually between the inlet and exhaust valves, or from the edge of a valve seat. You will be able to see it when you have cleaned the head up. Doubt if there will be any on that.

neilly said:

Did you do a compression test before you stripped it?

Cheers

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I did mate, 390 on cylinders 1 & 2. Cylinder 3 was pushing 400 IIRC.

I didn't get to do cylinder 4 as the glow plug thread stripped, hense me removing the head today to get it repaired.

Thanks

Turboman said:

Doesn't look bad, it isn't as easy to say from pics as if you can touch it.

Cracking on landrover engines is usually between the inlet and exhaust valves, or from the edge of a valve seat. You will be able to see it when you have cleaned the head up. Doubt if there will be any on that.

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You can normally snag any cracks with your fingernail ...

You need to clean it really well with a flat blade or knife, try not to dig it in, get al traces of gaskets off ...

Thanks turboman.

The black marks in the bores are from the flash of the camera really too. The bores to the touch feel great, as good as it gets, smooth and no ridges. Carbon at the top 5mm say.

I will clean the carbon a little more thoroughly between the valves then and inspect.
Unfortunately been as it's had an EGR all its life, the inlet manifold is a right state. So that will be sorted.

While I'm at this stage, is there anything else you would do to the cylinder head. Valve stem seals? Or dont mess/disturb. Should the cam followers be changed too?

Dippypud said:

You can normally snag any cracks with your fingernail ...

You need to clean it really well with a flat blade or knife, try not to dig it in, get al traces of gaskets off ...

Click to expand...

I'll do just that thank you. Is using wet and dry paper acceptable to remove carbon? Or those green nylon scourer things.

The only crack or mark I have seen all though I was in a rush so didn't inspect was around where the glow plug pokes through the head. I'll have to get some photos and inspect further with more time

Just wondering, why did you strip it down, was there a problem?

Dippypud said:

You can normally snag any cracks with your fingernail ...
.

Click to expand...

Cant feel anything on the pic!

ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90 said:

Thanks turboman.

The black marks in the bores are from the flash of the camera really too. The bores to the touch feel great, as good as it gets, smooth and no ridges. Carbon at the top 5mm say.

I will clean the carbon a little more thoroughly between the valves then and inspect.
Unfortunately been as it's had an EGR all its life, the inlet manifold is a right state. So that will be sorted.

While I'm at this stage, is there anything else you would do to the cylinder head. Valve stem seals? Or dont mess/disturb. Should the cam followers be changed too?

Click to expand...

Like she says^^^^^^^^^^^^^^. Clean it up so you can eat your dinner of it with a scraper. Don't scratch or gouge the head.

Maybe try oil test and lap in valves if needed. Seals are easy enough. Visual check guides, rockers and followers, replace if worn would be my approach.

ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90 said:

I'll do just that thank you. Is using wet and dry paper acceptable to remove carbon

Click to expand...

No. Use a scraper.

Valve seats re-cut, valves ground in, new stem oil seals ...

Up to OP to decide on Water pump and P-gasket etc ...

Clean out the intercooler, remove EGR, clean exhaust manifold and check for cracks and warping ...

Turboman said:

Cant feel anything on the pic!



Like she says^^^^^^^^^^^^^^. Clean it up so you can eat your dinner of it with a scraper. Don't scratch or gouge the head.

Maybe try oil test and lap in valves if needed. Seals are easy enough. Visual check guides, rockers and followers, replace if worn would be my approach.

Click to expand...

potus said:

Just wondering, why did you strip it down, was there a problem?

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I stripped a glow plug thread removing the plug when trying to compression test unfortunately. So head removed to repair

Water pump/P gasket /thermostat
Cambelt kit
Front and rear crank seals
Manifold gasket/rocker gasket etc

All being replaced.

Turboman...

The oil test, is that filling the valve seats with oil and seeing if they pass oil? Forgive my lack of knowledge, first time Ive ever stripped a car engine.

Thank you all

ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90 said:

Water pump/P gasket /thermostat
Cambelt kit
Front and rear crank seals
Manifold gasket/rocker gasket etc

All being replaced.

Turboman...

The oil test, is that filling the valve seats with oil and seeing if they pass oil? Forgive my lack of knowledge, first time Ive ever stripped a car engine.

Thank you all

Click to expand...

I like to use a thinner fluid like petrol ...

but everyone has a thing ...

and if your taking all the coolant out you may as well flush the rad ...(drain the block too), careful if flushing block as water can get into bores ...

ONE LIFE LIVE IT. D90 said:

The oil test, is that filling the valve seats with oil and seeing if they pass oil? Forgive my lack of knowledge, first time Ive ever stripped a car engine.

Thank you all

Click to expand...

Yes!

Is there no way of telling if the engine is in good nick from the photos then?

Took the cylinder head to the local engine place today who specialise in rebuilds and cylinder heads to have the glow plug thread repaired.

The bloke was trying to talk me into having the head skimmed, he said it's a better job if you do? I didn't buy it to be honest, as the workshop manual says different. But I had the engineer put a straight edge on it, and he said it's pretty flat and not warped.

What's your opinion on this chaps? Skim or no skim

I always re skim, even if tested and comes out ok, but that's me. While the heads off and all the valves etc done why not. Don't forget new head bolts and tighten the head correctll in stages.
I also check cam lobes and valve stems in the hollows I give them a clean out with petrol the a little bike chain oil.
Before refitting I give it a good blow with a air gun, and a good vacuum to make sure you get everything out and when wiping off I use long free cloth. Sure I go over the top but gives me peace of mind.
Good luck

That should be lint free cloth