CV Joint adjustment?

Early 90.
I've got far too much play on the CV joints- both sides. The CV joints, swivel housings and bearings were replaced by a specialist 4x4 garage two years ago, and have under 10,000km on them, so I'd really hope they're not dead already.

Is there sensible way to reduce play on these joints without a full replacement?

u sure its not your drive flanges?

KISSMYAURA said:

u sure its not your drive flanges?

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Fairly sure. They seemed good when I checked end float ( all four wheels) and the rear ones were now impeccable.

And I had it up on a lift- test guy used the hydraulic axle lift to load/unload it, and I could see the vertical movement around the swivel housing as they did.

The only adjustments, shims at the top swivel joint. How do you know you have CV joint wear ? If it is general slap in the drive train more likely it is the diff.

tottot said:

The only adjustments, shims at the top swivel joint. How do you know you have CV joint wear ? If it is general slap in the drive train more likely it is the diff.

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The front wheels rock vertically if you lift them off the ground and apply some force, so if that's the diff, I've got bigger problems than I thought!

Sounds like it is the swivel pins or the wheel bearings. Have someone else rock the wheel while you watch from behind. If housing moves on the ball housing it's swivel pin. If housing is still and only wheel / disc moves it's bearing that needs tightening.

Two bolts on the top with a brake pipe, remove them, lift out the pin, remove a shim and reassemble. From memory...you may have to keep the hub pushed in at the top, towards the diff or the swivel oil will leak out. To do the free play properly you need a spring scale to check resistance and add or remove shims to get it right. I had an issue where those top two bolts kept coming loose and giving me the play that you have but lock tight sorted that.

Alpinewoodsman said:

The front wheels rock vertically if you lift them off the ground and apply some force, so if that's the diff, I've got bigger problems than I thought!

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It's not the diff. It's hub bearings if the wheel rocks when held at 3 and 9 AND 6 and 12 o clock. If rocking is only at 6 and 12 then it's top pin wear/ adjustment or just loose bolts on the top pin like I had.

With the top pin out you need a jack under the housing to stop it dropping down and letting oil out. Will only drop a bit but enough to let the oil out.

tottot said:

Sounds like it is the swivel pins or the wheel bearings. Have someone else rock the wheel while you watch from behind. If housing moves on the ball housing it's swivel pin. If housing is still and only wheel / disc moves it's bearing that needs tightening.

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Swivel pins it is. I could see the housing move on the lift at 6 and 12. 3 and 9 is fine- I'd done end float on the bearings all round and fixed that...
Right, park it on the flat ( hard work round here) wheel off, spare jack ready for the housing, and hope it is just loose bolts on the top pin.

Given the low milage you have done since your garage did the work that all they did was remove some shims and perhaps fit a new swivel pin, but I doubt very much a new swivel pin bush was fitted. Unless it is the loose bolts issue.

Alpinewoodsman said:

Swivel pins it is. I could see the housing move on the lift at 6 and 12. 3 and 9 is fine- I'd done end float on the bearings all round and fixed that...
Right, park it on the flat ( hard work round here) wheel off, spare jack ready for the housing, and hope it is just loose bolts on the top pin.

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It won't be a loose bolt - there are four of them! There are two types of top bearing, one's a fibre plain bearing, alternative is a taper roller. If it's the fibre (Raiko) type then taking shims out doesn't really help. The purpose of that operation is to adjust the resistance to turning when you steer and you're pushing the pin down harder onto the bottom of the bush cup. When the bush's cylinder has worn you get the sideways play, and trying to stop that with pressure on the bottom won't last five minutes. New bush time. If it's a taper roller type then there is some mileage in re-shimming, but it's an indicator that the bearing has worn, and I change them anyway.

He says "early 90" so it will be the bush type, only two bolts on coil spring axle swivel pins.

1985/86.. Vin plate, paperwork etc don't quite agree. Wiring is a mix of 12J and 19J. Solihull's finest really excelled themselves on build qualilty here.

Alpinewoodsman said:

The front wheels rock vertically if you lift them off the ground and apply some force, so if that's the diff, I've got bigger problems than I thought!

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Swivel bearings / pins... 100%
Get a spring balance ( fishing scales amaon cheap cheap )
Trailerfittters toolbox on you tube has an excellent how to, chris is the man!

tottot said:

He says "early 90" so it will be the bush type, only two bolts on coil spring axle swivel pins.

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DOH! I've spent hours centring the pins on a lathe to turn bush pins into taper roller pins, and yes, of course they're two bolt...

Oh dear, we have all been there.