Cranshaft oil seal changed now oil light on!

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T

Taylorcraft

Member
Posts
50
Location
Bedford, England
Changed the front crankshaft seal and oil cooler + pipes the other day which all went ok. On the way to work (10miles) I noticed the oil light starting to flicker on and off pulled over turned the engine off and back on again and all was fine then it started again. The car was running fine before I did these jobs, could I have damaged the oil pump when I tried to undo the crankshaft bolt by wedging a bar on the frame work of the car and turning the engine over, is it possible to have an air lock in the new oil cooler and pipes?

Have replaced the oil switch sender and the oil light still flickers and then comes on rev the engine a little and the oil light goes off then comes on again.
 
Taylorcraft said:
Have to say I'm confused :confused: what does the bolt have to do with the oil pump?:eek:
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The front bolt that holds the pulley damper assembly on has to be tightened in a specific way as the oil pump drive relies on friction to drive it. Not tight enough and the oil pump slips on the crank. Wammers knows more detail.
 
Taylorcraft said:
Have to say I'm confused :confused: what does the bolt have to do with the oil pump?:eek:
Click to expand...

Oil pump drive is pinched between crank pulley and crank. You MUST tighten to correct angle. 100 nm plus 150 degrees in four stages. 100nm then 60 degrees. Then a further 60 then 30. Each flat on bolt is 60 degrees so basically if you do not have an angle gauge. Tighten to 100 nm then mark up and turn bolt two and a half flats.
 
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wammers said:
Oil pump drive is pinched between crank pulley and crank. You MUST tighten to correct angle. 100 nm plus 150 degrees in four stages. 100nm then 60 degrees. Then a further 60 then 30. Each flat on bolt is 60 degrees so basically if you do not have an angle gauge. Tighten to 100 nm then mark up and turn bolt two and a half flats.
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Ok see what you mean now :) I done it up to 100nm and a bit, and the bit was about half a flat.
 
Taylorcraft said:
Ok see what you mean now :) I done it up to 100nm and a bit, and the bit was about half a flat.
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Just tighten to 100 then mark the pulley with a dot of paint opposite a hex point on the bolt. Then put a dot of paint two points and half way along next flat after the two points. Then pull your arms out of their sockets trying to turn the bolt to match the first stationary mark on the pulley. Lightly lube the bolt.
 
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wammers said:
Just tighten to 100 then mark the pulley with a dot of paint opposite a hex point on the bolt. Then put a dot of paint two points and half way along next flat after the two points. Then pull your arms out of their sockets trying to turn the bolt to match the first stationary mark on the pulley. Lightly lube the bolt.
Click to expand...

Well took everything apart to find the crankshaft pulley bolt undone !

Have got the bolt to 100Nm and marked it but can't move it much further. I put 2 bolts back in that hold the pulley on and wedged a crow bar in there. what do you do to hold the engine still?
 
Taylorcraft said:
Well took everything apart to find the crankshaft pulley bolt undone !

Have got the bolt to 100Nm and marked it but can't move it much further. I put 2 bolts back in that hold the pulley on and wedged a crow bar in there. what do you do to hold the engine still?
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Special tool i'm afraid. How did you hold it to undo it?
 
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Had a mobile mechanic help me do the bolt up, oil light fine now and have been out towing the caravan and everything seems ok other than the info screen is now showing gearbox overheat. Have put Nanocom on but there are no faults any ware :confused:

I did remove the battery while we were doing some other work, would that have got the BECM confused?
 
Connection plug for gearbox temp sensor is to right hand side (looking from front) on radiator mounting. You should see a plug clipped to inside of radiator mount.
 
wammers said:
Connection plug for gearbox temp sensor is to right hand side (looking from front) on radiator mounting. You should see a plug clipped to inside of radiator mount.
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I think I owe you a drink :) the number of times I have taken that connection apart over the last couple of Months to change the engine oil cooler and the pipes then to put the pipes on the right way round and to change the split rad and I go and forget to plug it in :eek:. All sorted now.

Thanks to everyone for their input!
 
Taylorcraft said:
I think I owe you a drink :) the number of times I have taken that connection apart over the last couple of Months to change the engine oil cooler and the pipes then to put the pipes on the right way round and to change the split rad and I go and forget to plug it in :eek:. All sorted now.

Thanks to everyone for their input!
Click to expand...

If i had a drink off everybody who owes me one on here i could throw one hell of a party. ;);)
 
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