Crankshaft sensor spacer.

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There's another one I saw on the internet somewhere where the author said his wires had worn out on the inside of that corrugated plastic tube they encase them in, and somebody else who put it down to the loom getting pinched when the gearbox was fastened back onto the engine. So it could be all sorts of things.
 
Well finally heard it run again, thought it would never happen,.
ECU came back and they said it tested out OK, that cost me £60, they still wanted to re build it and charge me £300 though,
Laid under the vehicle and took off the earth connections, cleaned them very thoroughly and clamped them up tight new washers and stainless nuts, took off the earth cable which went from the ECU mounting bolt to the earth post under the seat, cut off both ends and re crimped new lugs on both ends.
From the ECU earthing point to negative battery lead measures almost zero resistance with the Fluke meter.
Replaced the ECU and connected the plugs, re connected the battery (fully charged) ran the purge cycle, turned the key and second time it fired up.
Absolute relief to hear it run, but nagging doubt as to the real root cause.
Let it run for 20 minutes and then set off and put in some fresh diesel did a 25 mile round trip, bit smokey at first but may be due to spinning it over so much on the starter motor,

I now have an old loom and I intend to make up a second harness with a 7 core and a screened 2 core inside a flexible conduit, then run it out and clip it to the original harness, will connect 7 core to the injector plug at the front of the engine, and the 2 core to the crank sensor, so both have brand new leads which run back to the red ecu plug.
May sound ridiculous but might have felt better if the found an ECU fault and fixed it, then I could point to the problem and know exactly what fixed it.
Thanks to all for input and help.
And a happy new year to all.

It is good to see you are back in business, frustrating not to know the problem.
It is going to take a little time to have confidence in its reliability if you are anything like me.
 
It is good to see you are back in business, frustrating not to know the problem.
It is going to take a little time to have confidence in its reliability if you are anything like me.
Thanks
Yes that's the problem did a 30 mile run today and it was fine, in fact when it starts up it sounds incredibly smooth and even to say it's done 118 thousand miles but still going to have that doubt
 
You had confidence in your Landy to guarantee your arrival at a designated destination? I want one like yours. :p:p:p

Cheers

You know that I am going to regret saying this but My TD5 has never failed to reach the destination I was driving to. I have had problems but none which have resulted in being stuck. (I know I should not have said that).
 
Just to come back to this
I took the Landy out on Saturday went down the A1 and after about 30 miles it just cut out yellow engine light came on, Lucky I was in the nearside lane and pulled onto the hard shoulder, put on the hazard lights and turned off the ignition, wondering what to do I just tried the started again and noticed the yellow light went out, second try and it fired up.
Nervously finished my trip about another 100 miles and it seemed to run OK.
Came home worried about this and plugged in Nanocom which showed the fault "Topside switch failed pre-injection," but no injector faults.
I Looked under the drivers seat and there was about half a pint of water in there, ( it has been damp before) looking on the net I saw this :
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/technica...iled-pre-injection-diagnoses-help-needed.html.
I wonder if the damp is causing this, but I also think that I cant trust the ECU now, need to find a good reliable ECU repair place.

Anyone had problems with water getting in the under seat area ? I have not been wading with it in fact it has not traveled far at all recently, I suspect rain is finding a way but need to get some time to take the seat off and have a good look.
 
Just to come back to this
I took the Landy out on Saturday went down the A1 and after about 30 miles it just cut out yellow engine light came on, Lucky I was in the nearside lane and pulled onto the hard shoulder, put on the hazard lights and turned off the ignition, wondering what to do I just tried the started again and noticed the yellow light went out, second try and it fired up.
Nervously finished my trip about another 100 miles and it seemed to run OK.
Came home worried about this and plugged in Nanocom which showed the fault "Topside switch failed pre-injection," but no injector faults.
I Looked under the drivers seat and there was about half a pint of water in there, ( it has been damp before) looking on the net I saw this :
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/technica...iled-pre-injection-diagnoses-help-needed.html.
I wonder if the damp is causing this, but I also think that I cant trust the ECU now, need to find a good reliable ECU repair place.

Anyone had problems with water getting in the under seat area ? I have not been wading with it in fact it has not traveled far at all recently, I suspect rain is finding a way but need to get some time to take the seat off and have a good look.
Sorry to hear your continuing issues, having read the thread you linked. Your ECU may not be at fault but the wiring damp/wet causing a power loss from the capacitors. Changing the ECU or reconditioning your ECU would not give the solution to the problem. You could move the ECU form its present location extension wiring is available I think that are in the region of £100.00. Some people fit them high on the divers side in the head lining.
Not sure if the attached is of use to you to find the connections which could be giving the problems.
A1, A22, A23, A24, A25, A26 & A27.
 

Attachments

  • TD5 ECU.pdf
    97.1 KB · Views: 227
Had some other things pressing this week but I am determined to find the leak and sort it, I am convinced it is something which has developed recently. Had some help from brown and I want to make up a new lead for the injectors and a second one for the crank sensor, I'm seriously thinking of making this a big spring project taking out the seats, strip out the seat box fit the transfer box I re built last year, wire up my heated seats, put in the wire harness mods, then clean up and paint every thing, hope I can track down the leak during the process.
Thanks for the attachment I actually found it a while ago, I managed to get some new pins from eBay so I want to make the leads up and just change the ones in the red plug.
 
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