Crank seal oil leak after engine rebuild : (

crank seal is dowty type rather than a std looking seal

jamesmartin said:

crank seal is dowty type rather than a std looking seal

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Ok thanks JM, I was worried I was missing some dowty washers somewhere......cheers

Choppertrash said:

...just a smear of silicone grease to help it over the shoulder.

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The seal has a teflon coating on it, it must be in DIRECT contact with the crankshaft, the grease increases the gap too much.

I know this is not the mode of failure in your case but worth noting. Did they fit a new seal anyway?

discomania said:

The seal has a teflon coating on it, it must be in DIRECT contact with the crankshaft, the grease increases the gap too much.

I know this is not the mode of failure in your case but worth noting. Did they fit a new seal anyway?

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Yes. Basically I fitted a new (non-genuine) seal (with some silcone grease :doh when I did the engine rebuild, with no sealant behind, and got a leak. The garage fitted a new genuine LR seal, and put sealant behind it with a new gasket, and new T seals with sealant and are confident it was all ok, but I need to pass on as much info and detail as possible for when they do it again, and look for another leak point if necessary.

Right, the garage are going to do the job again in a week or so.

I just need to be clear and give the garage a few pointers when assembling the rear end.

• When doing main bearing, remove main bearing, do not use T seals, just use sealant around joints.
• Use sealant on both sides of crankseal gasket, no grease on shaft/seal, ensure seal is centralised, guide on with M8 studs, pull-up evenly.

Just a couple of things I want to clarify.

1. How long should the sealant be left ideally before the oil goes in?
2. Should any sealant be used on the flywheel housing - engine block joint?

IS THERE ANYTHING I HAVE MISSED?

Thanks one and all.

super rtv silicone is best stuuf to use for sump

andyfox2005 said:

super rtv silicone is best stuuf to use for sump

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Cheers. Is that basically the same as the LR spec sealant that is used?

its better lol because it has almost same chemicals in and much cheaper land rover, it is silly money for their sealant check ebay i bought some for £9. its a pressurized container so no tools needed and its temp resistant to silly heat lol

What is the best way to insert and seal the T seals? There are references to a special tool, but I dont see how this works........?

silicone is better ,but t/seal tool is a pair of wedge shaped blocks that guide seals past edge of block.

jamesmartin said:

silicone is better ,but t/seal tool is a pair of wedge shaped blocks that guide seals past edge of block.

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So just fill the T seal gap with silicone and ditch the seals?

i do and have for years ,put a bead in both corners before fitting after fitting squeeze extra in from rear and underneath

Im having exactly the same problem after having a engine rebuild! Iv also had another crank seal and t seals fitted to try and cure the leak but I too still have a leak from the wading plug hole, Im at the point now where Im thinking of buying another engine! Ill keep a eye on this thread as would be really interested to see how you sort it. After spending so much time and money its really frustrating :frusty::frusty::frusty:

Been told today to look at the crank for scoring and irregularities. Seal won't be good if has. Massive widget of gasket seal round it.

chunkymunky said:

Been told today to look at the crank for scoring and irregularities. Seal won't be good if has. Massive widget of gasket seal round it.

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I am pretty positive that the shaft was in good condition when I did the initial rebuild. When the garage did it the first time, the guy also said that the oil was not passing through the seal/shaft interface, but around the housing. He said it was fitted fine, but I had not used sealant, just the gasket, so put the leak down to that.

Now it has gone back with sealant, the leak is not as bad, but I am guessing that it is getting past the main bearing somehow. It goes back in on monday, so I am going to give the garage some info on refitting. I was going to make the seal fitting guides for the T seals, but I will probably give them some old feeler gauge blades to help 'shoe-horn' the rubbers in without damaging them. I think they may have been damaged last time possibly.

I know they might just use sealant as JM said, but I want to get it right. I'm worried that if they just use sealant, it may not be done properly. I want to go down the garage and see when its out, but I can't get away from work.

Like Bam says, its bloody frustrating, especially as I was otherwise really pleased with the rebuild I did.

Yeah think mine is from both. I have one of them oil catchers with tub. Every few days weeks I stick it back in with 50ml of new 😏

Well the garage have said that neither the sump nor seal is leaking, after close inspection, but the leak is from the exhaust downpipe/flexi, off the turbo............haven't had chance to look for my self yet. I am glad the seal is ok, but i'm sure there is a tiny weep from the sump, but nothing I can't sort at some stage............I better start a new thread for the turbo now

I agree with jamesmartin I've just had the sump off mine because of a maaasive leak used Wynn's black gasket maker for the sump and t seals, left overnight to cure. Job spot on. Don't bother with t seals!