Crank Case breather to Air intake … Help!!!

So I have just bought a ripper of a 1962 Series 2A Petrol engine and don't collect the car for a month or so and have not actually even seen her in the flesh, In the photos I have noticed that the crankcase breather is fed into the carb intake … after the air filter. Any clues why this has been done? I am ging to take "Ringo" on a pretty big drive up the East coast of Australia the day I pickup so interested to understand this crank case witchcraft and if it's a standard "Hack". Any help or tips would be awesome.
Shane

Holy super breather Batman! Talk about recycling piston blow past. That is why it was done most likely.
Pipe is fitted to the oil filler tube. The actual engine breather to atmosphere [ with these older engines] is the cap on the rocker cover under pipe in pic. What a cobble up.

Welcome, Nice pick up, you could join the AA before you pick it up and get the home relay

tottot said:

Holy super breather Batman! Talk about recycling piston blow past. That is why it was done most likely.
Pipe is fitted to the oil filler tube. The actual engine breather to atmosphere [ with these older engines] is the cap on the rocker cover under pipe in pic. What a cobble up.

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Yeah it's a bit of a cyborg hey! So I am guessing you can't top the oil up through the rocker cover like most engines? Current owner says she runs fine. LOL

Shane Peel said:

Yeah it's a bit of a cyborg hey! So I am guessing you can't top the oil up through the rocker cover like most engines? Current owner says she runs fine. LOL

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You can top up the oil through the rocker cover.

I would be wary of driving that like that. It may well oil up the plugs. And might also start running on it's own oil, although there may not be enough compression to allow compression ignition.

The previous owner may be right that it is running OK. Although basic, these engines are very tough, and sometimes run OK with several cracked pistons.

If planning long drive have plenty of oil with you.

tottot said:

If planning long drive have plenty of oil with you.

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Yeah I will get a compression tester and if it's reasonable (above 100) might revert to factory setting.LOL. Will pull the plugs and see if they are black too, Which I am sure will lead to the carby, which will probably lead to the fuel pump and then I guess it's a ground up resto.

Shane Peel said:

Yeah I will get a compression tester and if it's reasonable (above 100) might revert to factory setting.LOL. Will pull the plugs and see if they are black too, Which I am sure will lead to the carby, which will probably lead to the fuel pump and then I guess it's a ground up resto.

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It might just need a rebore, new pistons, and maybe bearing shells.
Or he may have been running the wrong oil, in which case you may get away with honing the bores and new rings.

Yeah I can do all that pretty easy if I take the engine out, what oil is everyone running in these motors? 10W-30 in temperate climates or heavier?

Shane Peel said:

Yeah I can do all that pretty easy if I take the engine out, what oil is everyone running in these motors? 10W-30 in temperate climates or heavier?

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I use 10/40 in Series in Britain, or 20/50, but that is a bit too thick in winter. In a warmer climate it would be fine.

The important thing is to use a basic mineral oil, semi synthetic or full synth can cause problems.