john t
Active Member
- Posts
- 680
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- basingstoke
i have had the cracked chassis noise for a few months and as the noise was getting worse i thought it was about time i tackled the issue, its a very common problem on the freelander,
usually on the off side, its where the rear subframe - front bolt is attached to the chassis,
what happens is the welded spacer that goes through the chassis, becomes detached, causing a creaking noise usually when reversing.
my fix dose not require any welding and takes less than an hour, all that is required is a steel plate approx 8mm x50mm x150mm, with a hole drilled in the centre.
1, remove the offside rear wheel and place chassis securely on axelstand
2, from the inside pull back the carpet, to reveal the chassis retaining bolt access point, remove the cap and inspect the nut, you may see signs of movement ,
3, mark out and cut an access hole around the access point within the chassis , the larger the better.
4 remove the bolt, the nut is captive but will most probably rotate,also remove the nut and with a bit of persuasion remove the spacer ,it might require a small chisel or breaking out with a drill, mine came out freely as the weld was completely broken.
5,put the spacer in a vice and cut off approx 5mm
6, reassemble in reverse order and fitting the prepared steel plate, tighten the bolt ensuring the whole assembly is tight.
job done ,no more creaking
usually on the off side, its where the rear subframe - front bolt is attached to the chassis,
what happens is the welded spacer that goes through the chassis, becomes detached, causing a creaking noise usually when reversing.
my fix dose not require any welding and takes less than an hour, all that is required is a steel plate approx 8mm x50mm x150mm, with a hole drilled in the centre.
1, remove the offside rear wheel and place chassis securely on axelstand
2, from the inside pull back the carpet, to reveal the chassis retaining bolt access point, remove the cap and inspect the nut, you may see signs of movement ,
3, mark out and cut an access hole around the access point within the chassis , the larger the better.
4 remove the bolt, the nut is captive but will most probably rotate,also remove the nut and with a bit of persuasion remove the spacer ,it might require a small chisel or breaking out with a drill, mine came out freely as the weld was completely broken.
5,put the spacer in a vice and cut off approx 5mm
6, reassemble in reverse order and fitting the prepared steel plate, tighten the bolt ensuring the whole assembly is tight.
job done ,no more creaking