Cracked Block??
- Thread starter Bollotti
- Start date
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wil2813
Well-Known Member
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first sign of h/g failure or slipped liner imo and experience is slight loss of water and misfiring when started first thing in the morning after its stood overnight ,misfiring disappears after a short while when plug fires into life
kevwill
Active Member
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Hi Dohan. If the thermostat has also been jammed open by prev owner this would be to mask a problem (i.e. overheating), I'd say that you should put a working thermostat in first to see what's actually happening with the engine/cooling system.
Black sooty marks are over rich fuel mixture, which could be a separate issue.
White smoke/vapour from the exhaust for a few minutes is normal at this time of year.
Apart from topping up the water every few days, how is the car running? Engine smooth? No noises? No lack of power when accelerating?
You should speak to the garage to ask how they know the block is cracked - would be interested to hear.
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As said a long time ago, take the plugs out and see if any are clean. If any are water is getting in that cylinder. If they are all normal no water is getting into the engine. Simple test and not rocket science to do.
the engin runs fine i have no noises coming from the engin i also have no loss of power i was just wondering is their someone on here close to medway that could have a look at this for me but not charge silly prices cheers dohan
wil2813
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+1 100%, its a long shot but black sooty water could be a exhaust joint leak
wil2813
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+1, should be a biscuit/brown colour if 1 or more are like shiny brand new youve got problems
tony2
Active Member
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Have you checked for wet carpet in drivers footwell ?
If heater core o rings are leaking that would explain the slight water loss issue.
My money would be on the thermostat jammed open rather than cracked block.
Do as Wammers said and have a look at the plugs
If heater core o rings are leaking that would explain the slight water loss issue.
My money would be on the thermostat jammed open rather than cracked block.
Do as Wammers said and have a look at the plugs
200tdi ayre
Well-Known Member
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if it does turn out to be the block which by the sounds of it i doubt, i have a 4L sitting in my garage with no use atm
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desertdude
Member
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- 57
I wouldn't go near any engine with those magic in a bottle cures. They just eventually end up plugging up your internals.
A buddy bought a 99 V8 and were told by the PO it was a head gasket issue. After we flatbeded the 38 back. The heads were loose, with the bolts just hand tighten and there were new HG's in there. Regardless we got new ones, had the heads tested for warping and if it needed and facing and it didn't.
New water pump, hoses, radiator, VC fan and HG job. Fired up the car, ran fine at idle, and temp would stay put at 12 oclock. But with in 15 minutes of driving the temp would shoot up all the way red, system would pressurize so much so that it would start blowing hoses. Was fed up with it by then so put in another working engine and the 4.6 sits on the shop floor today. Upon looking around, looked like very sure signs of a cracked block, haven't bothered about ripping it up to see whats up on the inside, thought about top hats, but buying them having them shipped here and the machine shop charges just not wort it.
A buddy bought a 99 V8 and were told by the PO it was a head gasket issue. After we flatbeded the 38 back. The heads were loose, with the bolts just hand tighten and there were new HG's in there. Regardless we got new ones, had the heads tested for warping and if it needed and facing and it didn't.
New water pump, hoses, radiator, VC fan and HG job. Fired up the car, ran fine at idle, and temp would stay put at 12 oclock. But with in 15 minutes of driving the temp would shoot up all the way red, system would pressurize so much so that it would start blowing hoses. Was fed up with it by then so put in another working engine and the 4.6 sits on the shop floor today. Upon looking around, looked like very sure signs of a cracked block, haven't bothered about ripping it up to see whats up on the inside, thought about top hats, but buying them having them shipped here and the machine shop charges just not wort it.
SteveRover
New Member
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- North Hertfordshire Foothills
Hi Dohan,
I bought a cheap P38 4.0 with lpg that had much the same issues - gauge showing cold, losing coolant, exhaust vapours, slight misfire (blowing back through airbox). Hoses were not solid, engine not overheating so took the risk & bought it. New thermostat sorted running temperature, radiator was leaking slightly - but not leaving drips. And the gas system was in need of some attention to cure the misfire.
So, don't assume the worst! However, normal P38 rules apply (ie 'P' = problems, 38 = number of 'P').
So change the stat, give the rad & hoses a good study (hot water leaks show nicely in the cold!), and even change the water pump as well for good measure - and get, as suggested, a few second opinions!
Good luck!
thank you for your info i have had a good look at it all today and found out that the rad had a leak init only a small one i have replaced the themorstat am also waiting for the new rad to arrive but mr cluch told me the block was cracked thats what made me come to this site the quoted me to fix 5k in my oppinon thats a very dear rad and themorstat but thank you everyone for your help
dohan
