P38A Coolant leak at rear of engine.

Don't forget the RTV!!

James Rogers said:

OK so after some research and by looking at the rave guide it seems a very do able job. I will have another look on Monday to see what if I can find the leak. Maybe take the coil packs off. Is this what it is do we think? It does make sense.

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you don't need to take the coil packs off to do the inlet manifold.

but if you want to change the coil packs while you have it out and they are easy to get to word of advice.. if you go for aftermarket expect it to fail .. when i did my HG i thought change everything i can and changed the coil packs one failed after two weeks.. put the original bosch ones back on, sent the failed units back.

Where do I need to put the rtv? I know in the v shaped bit where the seals go. Anywhere else?

ukadamwest said:

you don't need to take the coil packs off to do the inlet manifold.

but if you want to change the coil packs while you have it out and they are easy to get to word of advice.. if you go for aftermarket expect it to fail .. when i did my HG i thought change everything i can and changed the coil packs one failed after two weeks.. put the original bosch ones back on, sent the failed units back.

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OK. Rave says you do but I'll see how I got. I'm doing the Valley gasket so lower manifold.

James Rogers said:

OK. Rave says you do but I'll see how I got. I'm doing the Valley gasket so lower manifold.

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to get the inlet manifold off you don't remove the coil packs, you remove the two upper bolts and loosen the lower but don't remove them they can be an arse to get back in best way i found was to magnetise the extension bar i used to access the bolts when putting them back

Change the spark plugs on a Thor. I'm not great on Thor's but it could be core plugs on head or indeed other things. Gems corroded more because they used blue antifreeze. Rtv the waterways both sides of the valley gasket. I use grey loctite from Halfords.
Core plugs are a pain. I can confirm they can corrode right through on rover v8 but I think it unlikely unless somebody has topped up with water for years for some reason.

ukadamwest said:

Don't forget the RTV!!

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What rtv should I go for?

I used the wurth stuff because it comes in a can with gun applicator

ukadamwest said:

I used the wurth stuff because it comes in a can with gun applicator

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OK any particular place I should put it? Or just smear on all gaskets?

No. Not all gaskets. Just on the rubber for the v under the clamp the is held on with a single bolt mid way

ukadamwest said:

No. Not all gaskets. Just on the rubber for the v under the clamp the is held on with a single bolt mid way

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That' w it says in rave. Im all set. Just waiting for the delivery now!!

Use the loctite grey from Halfords specifically made for antifreeze gaskets and yes it's actually a different type of silicon than the black. Don't put it on all gaskets. Put a circle around the waterways on the inlet manifold both the manifold and head.just a smear of the black on around the seals under the end clamps. Less is more around oil. Them rubber seals would probably work alone. Engines have been f$#&--d using to much silicon around oil.

I've done it! Actually surprised myself at how well it went. It had a metal one on it so I assume it been done before. There are a few things that I'd suggest that aren't in the rave manual. At the same time I'd recommend printing out the relevant pages and having them with you when you do the job.
1. Draining water. Undo the jubilee clip on the bottom pipe of the rad (the one that is vertical) and wedge a screwdriver in there. Easier than getting to the plug on the engine.
2. The clamp at the Valley gasket should be done up as much as possible without being tight as you can't get a socket on it and it has to be done up with a spanner.
3. The o/s plugs on the injectors don't need to be taken off.
4. When refilling the coolant use the rave recommended way. Works well and is easy!
5. When putting the alternator on I'd suggest doing that before the air con pump. It's a bit tricky to get at and may need a wooden hammer and a bar to get it right.
6. Use a little gasket sealent on the waterways as mentioned above. (the ones in the corners of the Valley Gasket.)
7. If there is water leaking after you've done the job check the water pipe that goes into the lower inlet manifold. For some reason mine had split?? But don' worry it can be removed and a new o ring fitted without removing any extra items. I' suggest using some grease as lubricant.
8. If your heating isn't hot after doing the job take it for a short drive and it should kick in.

Took me a grand total of 12 hours (never done anything like this before) but I do have all the gear as Im a coach mechanic.

Good luck!!

well done james. you've lost your cherry on the RR spannering.

(the inlet manifold gasket should be a metal gasket from OEM)

what are you going to tackle next ?

ukadamwest said:

well done james. you've lost your cherry on the RR spannering.

(the inlet manifold gasket should be a metal gasket from OEM)

what are you going to tackle next ?

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The head gaskets. They're bound to fail now he's done the Valley and got it all nicely back together.

Something about that clamp at the back of the valley rings a bell. I don't think it should be too tight or it can split. Sure someone split theirs round the back there. Mind you, there are some that seem to think torque value is ho long their missus has been on the phone.

ukadamwest said:

well done james. you've lost your cherry on the RR spannering.

(the inlet manifold gasket should be a metal gasket from OEM)

what are you going to tackle next ?

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As in the Valley gasket? The one I put in was composite. Between the 2 manifolds is metal. Is a composite valley OK?

Grrrrrr said:

The head gaskets. They're bound to fail now he's done the Valley and got it all nicely back together.

Something about that clamp at the back of the valley rings a bell. I don't think it should be too tight or it can split. Sure someone split theirs round the back there. Mind you, there are some that seem to think torque value is ho long their missus has been on the phone.

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Yh what I did was put a spanner on the front one after it had been torqued up and tried to do the back one the same. Not leaking right now so let's hope its OK.

James Rogers said:

As in the Valley gasket? The one I put in was composite. Between the 2 manifolds is metal. Is a composite valley OK?

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The inlet manifold gasket goes from the intakes into the inlet manifold gasket. Has the 8 holes in it. The valley gasket is well.. the valley gasket and composite is the way to go.

Get another composite one for when you do your HGs and use composite there too

ukadamwest said:

The inlet manifold gasket goes from the intakes into the inlet manifold gasket. Has the 8 holes in it. The valley gasket is well.. the valley gasket and composite is the way to go.

Get another composite one for when you do your HGs and use composite there too

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I'm not sure I'm capable of doing the heads. Won't they need skimming? Are they likely to go now I've done the Valley? It is pretty low mileage at 90k.

James Rogers said:

I'm not sure I'm capable of doing the heads. Won't they need skimming? Are they likely to go now I've done the Valley? It is pretty low mileage at 90k.

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If you've done the valley gasket you're about a third of the way to the HG.

There's no likelihood of them going following the V-gasket work. But they will likely go in due course probably between the water channel and cyl 7 or 8.could be a few years yet. Could never go.

But you know what.. if they do you now know you're capable of doing it. And really nothing to freak out over if they do need doing.

Heads only need skimming if distorted. Mine didn't.