Confused over oil leak from rear hub

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johnnyoxford

New Member
Posts
200
Location
Bucks
Hi

I have oil leaking from my rear hub, 200 tdi 90 (1993) defender.

I have been advised to replace the wheel bearings and seals. Ordered what I thought I needed from paddocks.

Stripped it today. No major dramas getting the hubs off, cleaning up, replacing bearings and seals either side of them.

Now as I looked at it to put it back together, I stopped, because I cannot see how replacing the wheel bearing seals will stop this leak:

The oil is in the diff and comes down the axle right? And as far as I can see there is nothing to stop it coming down the splines of the half shaft, and out of the hub, apart from a poxy rubber cap that sits on the end after the circlip.

Am I right? Or am I being daft here? There was a fair oil leak before, and streaks all around the wheel.

When I got it apart there was also oil inside the brak drum, could this have run out to the end of the half shaft and then back in through the bearings and seals?

Please help me tonight as I have stopped in case I put it all back together without resolving the problem.

I am wondering if there is an oil seal between the stub axle and the main axle housing? I dont however think the leak is there, as the oil evident in the brake drum was inside the drum on the backplate behind the shoes. Surely if it was leaking from the stub axle flange then the oil would be on the outside?

Hope this makes some sense, I am driving myself mad here.
 
The oil in the drum would of been from the bearing/hub seal No 12 .
the oil splattering out over your wheels is that rubber cap No 1 or the paper gasket behind the drive cap ( not shown ) . These caps go brittle over time or just cese making a good seal on the end of the shaft .
Check the lip of the cap for cuts etc - there cheap to replace anyway or clean off any oil/greese and run a bead of sealant around the lip to help it seal again :)
As for the paper gasket behinf the drive cap , put a bead of sealant on the mating faces .


Rearhubwithshoes.jpg


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thanks guys.

Buster your tip for cutting a slot out of the ol bearing race to use it to drive in the new seals / bearings is a great idea - thanks for that.

Regarding bearing endfloat, any tips for this? I dont havs a DTI clock, whats the best way to set the float?

thanks again
 
thanks guys.

Buster your tip for cutting a slot out of the ol bearing race to use it to drive in the new seals / bearings is a great idea - thanks for that.

Regarding bearing endfloat, any tips for this? I dont havs a DTI clock, whats the best way to set the float?

thanks again
Ah don't have a dial thingy either for end float, ah just nip thum up and give the furst nut about a 1/4 turn back, stick lock tab on, tighten up second nut, run it for a bit and recheck;)
 
Regarding bearing endfloat, any tips for this? I dont havs a DTI clock, whats the best way to set the float?

thanks again

Tighten the inner hub nut to 65Nm and spin the hub to settle the bearings.
Back off the inner hub nut 1/2 a turn and re-tighten to 4Nm.
Fit the tab washer.
Fit the outer hub nut and tighten to 65Nm, without allowing the inner nut to move.
Bend the tab washer over both nuts.
Simple.

I've got a 52mm 3/4" drive socket, which I use with a combination of reducers and my 1/2" and 1/4" drive torque wrenches to do the above.
 
The way I set end float is tighten the adjuster nut ( inner one ) so its finger tight ( not gripping the hell out of it :) ) , put the wheel back on , then spin the wheel at the same time as you nip the bearing back up ( this prevents the rollers marking the bearing races , and to ensure the the hub is fully home ) .

once happy that the hub is fully on , slacken the inner nut off half a flat and check to see if there is a small amount of movement when trying to move the wheel ( grab the top and bottom of the wheel , push and pull ( if you know what I mean ) .

When you have a small amount of play make sure the wheel spins freely and then put your lock washers on and outer lock nut and tighten to correct torque .
if at any time when tightening the lock nut you loose the free play , slaken off the inner nut again - then repeat till you end up with a small amount of play when its all tight :) .

Sounds long winded but when your doing it it doesnt take 5 mins :)


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Finished the job today, first proper job on the old girl.

Anyone else who has this problem, take the time to check the breather on the axle. I found mine was jammed solid. Remove the fitting from the axle, make sure it is clear (mine wasnt) and then blow through the pipe to make sure that is clear.

The thread into the axle is a standard pneumatic thread, I am going to change the fittin in mine in the spring and fit with 8mm plastic hose rather than the 6mm currently fitted.

Thanks to all who advised me. Simple job for some, but it was years since I took to the spanners. Its going to be a busy spring!!
 
Finished the job today, first proper job on the old girl.

Anyone else who has this problem, take the time to check the breather on the axle. I found mine was jammed solid. Remove the fitting from the axle, make sure it is clear (mine wasnt) and then blow through the pipe to make sure that is clear.

The thread into the axle is a standard pneumatic thread, I am going to change the fittin in mine in the spring and fit with 8mm plastic hose rather than the 6mm currently fitted.

Thanks to all who advised me. Simple job for some, but it was years since I took to the spanners. Its going to be a busy spring!!

Nice one, glad ye got it sorted;):D
 
I've got a leak on my 110 300tdi rear wheel too. I have changed the outer gasket, cleaned the breather (was blocked) and now there is a leak still! I parked on a hill today and saw a big puddle and leak. Do you think it is the inner seal I need to change?
 
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