Computer controlled

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
i'd be interested in doing this as a side project.. but it would be waaay down the queue.

i'd go a different route though. i'd probably look at making a box hooked into the system as an access point, then release ios/android software to use it via a tablet/phone.

it would be useful to keep a note of all the specs lr use for each model and how it all works :)
 
trax said:
i'd be interested in doing this as a side project.. but it would be waaay down the queue.

i'd go a different route though. i'd probably look at making a box hooked into the system as an access point, then release ios/android software to use it via a tablet/phone.

it would be useful to keep a note of all the specs lr use for each model and how it all works :)
Click to expand...

I think this is similar to how I plan on doing it, except with a windows tablet. The arduino board will be the access point, which will then be controlled with the phone app. I was going to have a separate screen, but it seems a bit pointless if you can get a cheap Surface and mount it somewhere.

Will do a build thread when I finally get onto it. First I need to buy some spot lamps so I actually have something to control!
 
Central locking controlled by bluetooth from a phone... hmm... suppose landy's are already fairly insecure, wouldn't make much difference giving criminals another easy access method ;)

Good luck and enjoy playing, personally I prefer to take as many electrics out of my landy as possible.
 
Bump said:
Central locking controlled by bluetooth from a phone... hmm... suppose landy's are already fairly insecure, wouldn't make much difference giving criminals another easy access method ;)

Good luck and enjoy playing, personally I prefer to take as many electrics out of my landy as possible.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I am not sure about the central locking idea. It would have to be very secure. Though not sure many thieves would come prepared to hack into Bluetooth!

Well I am a computer programmer, so thought it would be a bit of fun, we are odd like that! Everything else I have done has been a massive learning curve, may as well do something I know! Though I have done very little programming in c.

Out of interest, what kind of wire do people use for spot lights?
 
james6546 said:
Yeah, I am not sure about the central locking idea. It would have to be very secure. Though not sure many thieves would come prepared to hack into Bluetooth!

Well I am a computer programmer, so thought it would be a bit of fun, we are odd like that! Everything else I have done has been a massive learning curve, may as well do something I know! Though I have done very little programming in c.

Out of interest, what kind of wire do people use for spot lights?
Click to expand...

Thin wall insulation wire for everything wire wise, what wattage are your spots?

Power = voltage x current, so, you can work out the normal current draw and buy the appropriate cable

I buy my cable from http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/70 - no link to the company or anything, just who i use! - or if you only need a bit my folks live less than 10 minutes from Ashbourne, can always drop you a length up. (I buy it in 100m reels)
 
Bump said:
Thin wall insulation wire for everything wire wise, what wattage are your spots?

Power = voltage x current, so, you can work out the normal current draw and buy the appropriate cable

I buy my cable from Thin Wall Cable - no link to the company or anything, just who i use! - or if you only need a bit my folks live less than 10 minutes from Ashbourne, can always drop you a length up. (I buy it in 100m reels)
Click to expand...

Ok, thanks :)

To be honest though I will probably buy a lot of wire as I will need to do everything as the defender is completely standard at the mo.

Thinking these lights

2 x 4" 18W Cree LED Work Light Lamp Bar Flood Beam Jeep Tractor Truck 12v 24v CE | eBay

Guess being LED they wouldn't have a very high current draw?
 
james6546 said:
Ok, thanks :)

To be honest though I will probably buy a lot of wire as I will need to do everything as the defender is completely standard at the mo.

Thinking these lights

2 x 4" 18W Cree LED Work Light Lamp Bar Flood Beam Jeep Tractor Truck 12v 24v CE | eBay

Guess being LED they wouldn't have a very high current draw?
Click to expand...

No... opposite, LED is very low current draw,

So P = V x I

18 = 12 x I
18/12 = I
1.5amp = current draw per LED work light

I'd personally use the 1mm^2 thin wall wire for the work lights - massively over rated, but, I like to over engineer things and 1mm^2 is still very thin wire.

Make sure you use waterproof connectors, or, if soldering use heat shrink (and consider self amalgamating tape)
 
Bump said:
No... opposite, LED is very low current draw,

So P = V x I

18 = 12 x I
18/12 = I
1.5amp = current draw per LED work light

I'd personally use the 1mm^2 thin wall wire for the work lights - massively over rated, but, I like to over engineer things and 1mm^2 is still very thin wire.

Make sure you use waterproof connectors, or, if soldering use heat shrink (and consider self amalgamating tape)
Click to expand...

Ok, thanks for the advice. I'm looking forward to my arduino kit coming so I can play about with inputs and stuff.

You think those lights look ok? Was thinking 4 on the roof, then 2 spots on an A bar. Then I will have both sets on independent circuits that can be either switched with full beam, or manually turned on and off. Lots of wiring I know!
 
james6546 said:
Ok, thanks for the advice. I'm looking forward to my arduino kit coming so I can play about with inputs and stuff.

You think those lights look ok? Was thinking 4 on the roof, then 2 spots on an A bar. Then I will have both sets on independent circuits that can be either switched with full beam, or manually turned on and off. Lots of wiring I know!
Click to expand...

Yeah they look fine from the pic on eBay - can't see the sellers description for some reason (work pc's have ancient browsers, we only recently got IE8 and they are starting to talk about a (scary) migration to Windows 7 at some stage, but, until then we'll be sticking with XP :( )

It's not much of a hassle to have main beam or manual, 3 way switch and some relays behind the dash would do all that for you, no need to run lots of wires everywhere :)
 
Bump said:
Yeah they look fine from the pic on eBay - can't see the sellers description for some reason (work pc's have ancient browsers, we only recently got IE8 and they are starting to talk about a (scary) migration to Windows 7 at some stage, but, until then we'll be sticking with XP :( )

It's not much of a hassle to have main beam or manual, 3 way switch and some relays behind the dash would do all that for you, no need to run lots of wires everywhere :)
Click to expand...

Ah, ok. That would make sense. So I would be able to run the full beam input from behind the dash into my input on the arduino.
 
james6546 said:
Ah, ok. That would make sense. So I would be able to run the full beam input from behind the dash into my input on the arduino.
Click to expand...

Yes, yeah i guess you're going to end up with a huge bank of relays connected to your computer thing?
 
james6546 said:
I think this is similar to how I plan on doing it, except with a windows tablet. The arduino board will be the access point, which will then be controlled with the phone app. I was going to have a separate screen, but it seems a bit pointless if you can get a cheap Surface and mount it somewhere.

Will do a build thread when I finally get onto it. First I need to buy some spot lamps so I actually have something to control!
Click to expand...

why a ms tablet? do you not want anyone to use it? :p
 
trax said:
why a ms tablet? do you not want anyone to use it? :p
Click to expand...

Well you have a point there, but my phone is windows, and I have a touch screen laptop, so would be easy to test and develop.

I would probably make an android app as well I should think.
 
james6546 said:
Oh, and we have a really old version of IE at work, I just use chrome...!
Click to expand...

Ah, that would require IM to give you permission to install software. Oh no, any software you want has to be tested first, this normally takes 18 months or longer.

I carry two laptops, problem is, the useful laptop can't go on the corporate LAN, so, I have to tether through my phone to use it, which results in expensive phone bills!
 
Bump said:
Ah, that would require IM to give you permission to install software. Oh no, any software you want has to be tested first, this normally takes 18 months or longer.

I carry two laptops, problem is, the useful laptop can't go on the corporate LAN, so, I have to tether through my phone to use it, which results in expensive phone bills!
Click to expand...

Ah, that isn't ideal. I can generally install what I want within reason, and then I run virtual machines for everything else!
 
if you could sort out a decent hardware device and some basic spi, then i'd be up for knocking out apps on a few platforms
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

mrshells
Disco 4 (LR4) retro fit cruise control
Replies
0
Views
465
mrshells
mrshells
J
Freelander 2 (LR2) Engine warning light
Replies
5
Views
846
Arctic2
Arctic2
styleruk
Dash repair
Replies
6
Views
449
Dippypud
Dippypud
Bumpydog
FBH 2013 Disco 4 remote
Replies
0
Views
354
Bumpydog
Bumpydog
bankz5152
Remote Locking Freewheeling Hubs?
Replies
0
Views
654
bankz5152
bankz5152
Back
Top