Clutch

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i've just got my gear box back together for the second time today. i put mine back dry both times. i dont beleave there is any need to use any sealer, and in answer to your question, it is correct you only need to pull the gear box back no further than in that article on the link posted.
 
use the engine hoist/crane its really easy, put a strap round the box stick the ends of the strap throught the gear stick hole and get the box balanced so you can position it from underneath. i did mine on the street on my own, it took two days from start to finnish to change the clutch.
 
I am going for it, I will order the parts tomorrow then hopefully start friday and carry on saturday.

It already got worse today so I could not get it into first gear when running so I have stopped driving it.
 
good for you.
i was well covered on here for advice and help when i did mine, took a while with the xmas break, work commitments, bad weather, inexperience and busting propshaft but i got it done and am pleased about that.
 
I hope it goes ok, I have a covered work space now which helps, not warm but it is dry.

Is there any other work that anyone recomends doing while i am at it?
 
I hope it goes ok, I have a covered work space now which helps, not warm but it is dry.

Is there any other work that anyone recomends doing while i am at it?

Buy a small tube of Rocol MT-LM Assembly Paste, and apply lots to the ball-socket of the new release arm. The new arm will last twice as long before a hole wears through it.

New clutch cover and driven (centre) plate and a new release bearing.

What else does he need?

He needs a few stout Landyzone Chums to appear and give him a hand!

CharlesY
 
Buy a small tube of Rocol MT-LM Assembly Paste, and apply lots to the ball-socket of the new release arm. The new arm will last twice as long before a hole wears through it.

New clutch cover and driven (centre) plate and a new release bearing.

What else does he need?

He needs a few stout Landyzone Chums to appear and give him a hand!

CharlesY

yep,
grease up the pivot point on the arm too, and the gear shaft,
and i''d be happy to help you out if you need,
 
hi there

when my clutch went i asked around on here for advise and opp for engine way as in lifting and pulling engine forward it give me plenty of room to spin it and do the work without spending to much time on me back,and messing me interor up.also it also helps in seperating the top bolts in the engine to bell housing aswell. still it a thought
 
Well... I have managed to split the box from the engine, not too bad afterall but I sadley ran out of time today. I am not sure if I have enough room to do the work on the clutch, I have split it as far as it will go and I am running out of cable on one of the connections. I can also see why it was giving me so much trouble!
 

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trust me, you got plenty of room,
when you undo the pressure plate bolts you'll notice the hard to get to top bolts will revolve down toward you as the flywheel turns with you when you break the ?torque tension?
on the lower bolts as you undo' em, i found it a pleasure, sort of harmonious:eek:
I have a clutch alignment tool if you need to borrow, to get the new friction and pressure plate centre on the flywheel, if not theyr'e pretty cheap.
I didn't change the spigot bush, i still have my old one on there, Check with the others about fitment of this, it's gotta be worth doing if you can, Anyone?, Charles?.......
 
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