Clutch

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James

James

Active Member
Posts
811
Location
Reading, Berkshire
I noticed to day that the clutch pedal feels different, like the biting point has move further down and I need to puch it to the floor to dusengage it properly.

It has also been making a bit of noise recentley when I push the prdal at all.

My question is, is my clutch on its way out and is it feasable for me to do the job myselfe? I have done all the other work on it so far and don't want to be deffeated but I am a little scared because of the weight of the gearbox when it is undone. I would be working on my own doing it.

Cheers
 
James said:
I noticed to day that the clutch pedal feels different, like the biting point has move further down and I need to puch it to the floor to dusengage it properly.

It has also been making a bit of noise recentley when I push the prdal at all.

My question is, is my clutch on its way out and is it feasable for me to do the job myselfe? I have done all the other work on it so far and don't want to be deffeated but I am a little scared because of the weight of the gearbox when it is undone. I would be working on my own doing it.

Cheers
Click to expand...

First is to make SURE the master cylinder reservoir is full to the brim.
If it isn't , fill it up, and if you are lucky it will be better in a few pushes of the clutch pedal.

If the reservoir is full, start to think the release bearing is giving up, or the release arm is wearing through on the ball pivot.

These are gearbox out jobs ....

CharlesY
 
Thanks, the master cylinder is full and the level has not changed. Is changing the clutch not a gear box out job?

How big a job is it?
 
sounds more like the pivot ball is wearing through the release arm. if this is the case, all of a sudden you will lose all clutch pressure. weather it is this or the clutch itself, it will be a gear box out job. the gearbox IS VERY heavy but i have had mine out twice in the last month, and with the exact problem if the release arm. it is possible to get it off on your own with a lot of patience if you have never done it before. as for getting it back on i would advise to have some help as it is dificult to move it foward and line it up with the studs. just keep the weight supported using jacks. if you are going to do this and want some more advise let me know as i have recently done this and am in the process of refitting the transmission

paul
 
Thanks, looks like the hardest bit is getting it in and out because of the weight. Just reading Haynes manuel, they talk about using an engine hoist throught the tunnel and doing it that way. Did you do it just from underneath? How long shoud I expect it to take, I know it is a bit like how long is a piece of string...
 
James said:
Thanks, looks like the hardest bit is getting it in and out because of the weight. Just reading Haynes manuel, they talk about using an engine hoist throught the tunnel and doing it that way. Did you do it just from underneath? How long shoud I expect it to take, I know it is a bit like how long is a piece of string...
Click to expand...

i supported my gearbox with a ratchet strap under it as a hoist hooking the strap ends over the roof of the truck, when i was lining it up from below.
 
Great link, does make it sound a little easier to do. I like the strap idea of yours. The like was however for the 300tdi which has the R380 gearbox and mine is a 200tdi with the LT77, does this make much difference in fitting?
 
i tried both at start off,
but settled on a method using two straps, one across top car linked in middle(cloth and cushion under hooks and ratchet to protect paintwork), this ran straight across the top and in front of the windscreen,on inside, just beneath head lining.(real tight)
then another hooked strap under the gearbox, both hooks suspended from the taught horizontal strap, straight above the removed centre consul area, this avoided snagging the straps on the edges of the exposed metalwork in the centre consul void, which happened using the guttering for anchoring, on doing this i got more sideways movement.

to add i DID NOT dispense with the other methods off support while doing this for safety, Jack under hand brake, and chassis cross member, when needed, there was still something unsettling about the gearbox hanging from something that you could play a tune on!!
 
Last edited:
Both the 200 and 300 are very similar as far as replacing the clutch, If your clutch pedal is lower than your brake pedal you can ajust its height to give the full movment needed to fully disegaged the clutch, But i agree with the previous posts, It appears to be the Clutch fork wearing through the Pivot, Gearbox out job!!
 
I have looked at that, if that is as far as it needs to go then that is great.

What parts will I need, to replace the lot, I assume I will need the clutch release bearing and the release fork, any other bits? What is the sealent that I will need for the bell housing seal to the engin?
 
if ya get the normal fork an weld a nut over the round bump were the rod locates then fill the middle in wi weld,he presto one heavy duty fork!piece of p1ss
 
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