Clutch slip

sp00k said:

Got the flywheel off before and there's no evidence of oil behind it. Rear crank seal looks good. Thoughts anyone?

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Reckon you'll get 50% replies saying change it and 50% leave it alone. My own thoughts are if it ain't broken don't fix it - unless its done a fair mileage, change it while you are in there. Bit of a brexit vote this one.

I've come unstuck before doing jobs that don't need to be done. I'll have put less than 20k on the clock since I fitted it, so I'm going to trust my gut instinct and leave it alone.

I'm convinced my original failure was the MC.

I'm a big fan of re newing **** like that to make sure it's still good for another 20k and many more miles but it's your truck and your choice dude.

Hi sp00k
Had to do mine about 3 years ago ! Nothing wrong with the clutch plate But the pressure plate was crackerd
when you stripped it down I bet you didn't notice how much the fingers on the pressure plate came out when you undid the bolts ??

Now then, finally got my gearbox reattached

When fastening the belhousing, is there any difference between using 17mm nuts with washers or flange nuts which have a 15mm head?

Use normal nuts and spring washers.

Flossie said:

Use normal nuts and spring washers.

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Thanks. Any particular reason (just trying to increase my mechanical understanding).

I was assuming you intended using a flange nut with no washer? That is what they are ideal for in certain applications.
If you used a spring washer under a flanged nut that would be OK IF you had enough stud length to accommodate.
You need a spring washer because if the nuts slack off a bit you'll lose your clutch.

I think he means the bellhousing nuts which hold the engine to the gearbox. They are studs I just took mine off and all were 17mm heads with no washers bar one 15mm nut..

Engines still sat in mine at the minute tho

All back together with new clutch. Replaced master cylinder. Can't engage any gears with engine running. Can force 3rd and 4th but very notchy going in. Can change easily with engine off.

When letting the clutch up in gear, the take up is very smooth and clutch action feels normal. Clutch pedal is firm.

It's as if the clutch is not operating quite enough. I've force bled the system twice with an easy bleed.

Any advice please?

So you have changed the master and slave cylinders, and the clutch pressure and friction plates? I presume you changed the bearing as well and the clutch arm looked OK. Bit of a long shot, but I'd change the flexi pipe as well, in case it's bulging under pressure.

I renewed the fork (wth HD one) flexi pipe, slave and master about a year ago.

This time around, I've changed the clutch, pressure plate, release bearing and master cylinder. The only parts I've not changed are the slave and master cylinder.

You're going to say it's the slave The flexi moves very slightly when the pedal is depressed but it does not bulge.

You won't necessarily see the bulge in the flexi that would affect the clutch operation. Although it's rare, it did happen to one of my Series IIIs years ago. As you've spotted however, it's more likely the slave. At least both are cheap!

And at least the box doesn't need to come back out

Did you change the spigot bush in the end of the crank (the bit the gearbox input shaft slides in to)? If you did and it was a tight fit, or not soaked in oil before it was fitted, then there may be enough friction for the crank to turn the gearbox with the clutch pedal fully depressed. That may make selection difficult when running. If you didn't replace it then it should be fine unless you somehow gouged it getting the box out or in.

Good call Kwakerman. You might be onto something there. I hope your wrong though. I did have a bit of a fight getting the gearbox back so damaging the spigot is a possibility. I did not change it. Come to think of it, there was one in the clutch kit but I forgot about it

The bit that's missing at the moment is that when I dip the clutch, I can still hear the gearbox rotating. I'm pretty sure that's also the case with the T Box in N and the main gearbox in various gears.

Have you definitely got minimum free play at the master pushrod? Too much and the clutch won't fully disengage, worth a check before pulling the box for sure!

I can't adjust the pedal to the book as I don't have the floor in at the moment, but I adjusted it fully in each direction with no difference in results.

Take the cover, 6 screws, off the master under the bonnet.
Get someone to work the clutch while you observe how it works, you need the pushrod to move almost straight away, as soon as the pedal moves. You do need a little play but not much at all, if you have too much the pedal can't push the piston in the master far enough to fully disengage the clutch. Adjusting it is fiddly though but easier with two people. Anyways, check that out first cos it's easy and free!