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Clutch Slave Cylinder for a 2A

Discussion in 'Series Land Rovers' started by scottonthefen, Mar 14, 2019.

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  1. scottonthefen

    scottonthefen Active Member

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    I've gone to bleed the clutch on my 2A today having fit new brake and clutch pipes all round. I was impressed with how hard it was to get to the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder before I found the peephole in the transmission cover. :D Still it is seized solid and starting to round off so I may as well fit a new one to go with all the new pipes and fluid.

    A brief search shows they cost £12. Any opinions on these cheap ones? Can I get a Lockheed one or similar? Or is there not much difference between makes? I've had a couple of bad experiences now with BritPart and would prefer not to use cheap parts for the more important bits, such as a clutch slave cylinders.

    Opinions welcome, cheers.
     
  2. scottonthefen

    scottonthefen Active Member

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    And.. I have heard it's a good idea to replace the master and slave at the same time if you're going to do one. And now would seem sensible as I've just put all new pipes in and am about to bleed. Opinions?
     
  3. tottot

    tottot Well-Known Member

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    I use Delphi for clutch and brake if I can.
     
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  4. rob1miles

    rob1miles Well-Known Member

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    I seem to recall some are cast iron and some are ally. I wanted ally (can't recall why...). I got one of e-bay for about £12, it wasn't BP, fitted fine and works fine. I think I also turned the bolts round to make it easier to fit.
     
  5. suburban

    suburban Well-Known Member

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  6. scottonthefen

    scottonthefen Active Member

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    My PO turned ONE of the bolts round.. :D

    I'll see how much the delphi ones are that tottot mentioned, but it's good to know you've fitted a cheaper one and it's been good so far Rob.
     
  7. scottonthefen

    scottonthefen Active Member

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    That's a nice mod. My slave cylinder is on the O/S of the bell housing though, right behind an access hole in the transmission tunnel and facing directly up. I don't know when they moved to the other side and lower down? I won't have to go pot-holing to bleed it once I've fit a slave cylinder with a bleed nipple I can actually undo. :)
     
  8. tottot

    tottot Well-Known Member

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    The slave moved when the series 3 came out along with a total change of clutch release system.The Two release is much better/stronger and can be retrofitted to a 3 box if you want. Filling the end boot of the slave with vaseline and a bit on the nipple threads will keep them good for years. Delphi slave about £25.
     
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  9. scottonthefen

    scottonthefen Active Member

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    Cheers all. Ordered Lucas all round inc. brake master cylinder. In for a penny.. One day I swear I'll drive this thing down the road. :D
     
  10. scottonthefen

    scottonthefen Active Member

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    Cylinders are here. I ordered parts described "MASTER BRAKE CYLINDER" and "MASTER CLUTCH CYLINDER" because the Hayne book listed them as slightly different stroke length (35mm and 38mm). But I've been sent cylinders with the same part number.

    - Have we since decided the same stroke will do?
    - I can see how 3mm difference can be made up at the snail cams but I'm unclear how it could be taken up at the clutch if need be..
     
  11. scottonthefen

    scottonthefen Active Member

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    Is vaseline ok near hydraulics then? I'm no chemist.. I know oil is not a good idea hence no copper slip..
     
  12. Turboman

    Turboman Rural Activist

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    Vaseline is petroleum jelly, which, as the name suggests, is made from oil.

    But used as suggested, it will not come into contact with the brake fluid, except during bleeding, and that fluid will be thrown away.
     
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  13. scottonthefen

    scottonthefen Active Member

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    I measured. They're both a 35mm stroke, which is what the Haynes book quotes for the clutch master cylinder. I assume 3mm less on the brake master cylinder (which should be 38mm stroke) is ok else Dingocroft wouldn't have sent me the same part as for clutch.
     
  14. tottot

    tottot Well-Known Member

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    As I said been using it for years for clutch and brake cylenders. As turboman says it does not come into contact with the brake fluid or the seals it just fills the end cap to prevent moisture getting at the piston causing corrosion, as for the nipple thread dont go mad just a little on the threads for the same reason. My trials motor is in the thick of it once a month and then does nothing until the next month and rarely has brake problems.
     
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  15. scottonthefen

    scottonthefen Active Member

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  16. Blackburn

    Blackburn Well-Known Member

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    Red brake grease is compatible to the seals and will achieve the same thing not that expensive.
     
  17. scottonthefen

    scottonthefen Active Member

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    I saw someone using that on youtube. They took the new cylinder apart and put a fair bit around the piston seal before reassembling. I understand you're telling me it's compatible with the seals/rubber and to use as you've suggested under the boot but putting it inside to help the piston move seems like it would contaminate the brake fluid. Have I got that right or does this stuff for some reason not spread in the hydraulic fluid like other "oils"?
     
  18. Blackburn

    Blackburn Well-Known Member

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    Compatible with the brake fluid as well.
     
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