Clutch replacement

The clutch on my 2a is starting to slip, I will replace it myself, with my fathers help, but he says the only ways to get to the clutch is to either take up the floor or remove the engine.

Is this really the only way a clutch replacement can be done on my Landy?

Out of interest I phoned a 'clutch specialist' who advertised in my local free-ad and they quoted £590 to do the job!!

Floor out is the easiest way then stick a hoist through the door. With the rear propshaft off there's enough room to move the gearbox back far enough to get at the clutch. It can be done with a couple of planks and a highish lift trolley jack but it's a bit akward. You get more access if the seat box comes out as well.

Yep.
Easiest way is to take the floor and seat box out then slide the gearbox backwards on a couple of trolley jacks. The floor isnt held in by very much, if a bolt is being difficult grind the bugger off and replace it.

sod £590!

beat me to it oxides. there is enough slide tho in the propshaft to get away with not taking it off. Well there should be/was once..

Cheers all, looks like the floor will be coming out then. Luckily most of the bolts and fasteners look like they are in good nick, not too rusty or dogeared.

The £590 was a bit of a shock especially as they advertised "clutches fitted at trade prices".

George'66 said:

beat me to it oxides. there is enough slide tho in the propshaft to get away with not taking it off. Well there should be/was once..

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Yeah - I meant off the back of the box.

.....and don't forget to unhitch the speedo cable and handbrake.

Thanks for the tips.. It'll be a learning experience if nothing else

Eightball said:

Thanks for the tips.. It'll be a learning experience if nothing else

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If you've never done a clutch before you'll need a centralising tool (or an old gearbox input shaft - or even an appropriate length of dowel) to get the plate central and a lot of patience when putting the gearbox back in - keep it all nicely square and lined up and gently rotate the input shaft as you slide it in. Get the whole kit and replace the plate, cover and release bearing.

Yeah, I was planning on replacing the whole kit/assembly. My father has plenty of tools & mechanical experience so I'm rather hoping he'll have everything that's needed to do the job..

The only tricky bits are accessing all the bellhousing bolts (take all the covers off back to the bulkhead) centring the clutch plate and taking off the propshaft - access is limited by the UJ but I find a 1/4 or 3/8 socket set with an extension bar fits in nicely, although there is a special tool.

Change the spigot bush at the same time.

what's a spigot bush?

if you get a 4 piece clutch kit it will come with a metal ring that fits into the bearing on the flywheel to stop the end if the gearbox shaft (spigot) floating about .just be sure to get the old one out first.

Replaced clutch plate last week to cure slip, check rear crank case oil seal not leaking which might lead to slipage, floor out etc as above posts then ease back gearbox 5 inches and job done, allow a day and it will take two, good luck, clutch plate was £35 from Dunsfold

Thanks everyone for the advice and helpful hints.

I'm planning on getting a full clutch kit. Woody has mentioned Dunsfold as a potential supplier. does anyone have any advice with regard to the better brands to get, or prehaps which to avoid?