clutch plate the wrong way around?

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Thin_trucker

Active Member
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317
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lincoln
To cut a long story short, I changed my td5's clutch, pressure plate, release bearing, pushrod clip, spigot bearing and new seals in the slave cylinder at the weekend and it's not really worked out well :confused:

Now, I'm a qualified, time served mechanic (now a trucker, obviously) but I ended up taking the 'box back out and re-doing the clutch because it just didn't want to go back in and I was in a seriously foul mood at the time sooo, who knows!?

so, as it stands, I'm pretty sure it's bled out ok; after much frustration it bled eventually with a pressure bleeder and feels solid with a plate bolted over the end of the slave cylinder. The release bearing's on properly (drilled a hole in the bell housing to check!! :eek:) and the pedal feels o.k. I think (about the same as it did).

I can get gears but it's not good at all, the clutch bites very low down - within the bottom inch or so. But I'm running out of Ideas to be honest, I've never had this before, not even as an apprentice and I'm a bit stumped :eek:

I can only think it's one of these;

Input shaft sticking in spigot bearing

master cylinder packed in during bleeding

friction plate the wrong way round

****e britpart clutch no good from the start (all I could afford)
 
Friction plate should say which side goes on which and did you make sure the new pressure plate was good ?

It was a ****part one afterall…….and for the price of a clutch and time involved I'd go AP (Borg and Beck) given that its only £120 for a new kit
 
friction plate center boss should go flywheel side otherwise it wont allow input shaft to go through it enough as splines run out and plate is forced onto flywheel giving drive even when clutch pressed ,input can be too tight in spigot i allways use a spare input shaft to check when fitting new bush
 
I wouldn't know what to look for with the pressure plate to be honest, it's not normal to have to check a new part :suspicious:

Yeah the friction plate said flywheel side on it, and I did check carefully the first time 'round but maybe not so much so the second - I'm sure I would have but knowing I was spitting one's dummy bigtime I'm starting to doubt myself.

Anyway, I gather the clutch wouldn't work at all if the friction plate were the wrong way 'round - is that right? mine does but only just, but it always did bite low down
 
jamesmartin said:
,input can be too tight in spigot i allways use a spare input shaft to check when fitting new bush
Click to expand...


Any way of checking for this after it's fitted? I'd guess the car would move when in gear with clutch pedal depressed if this were the case - it doesn't :confused:

It's been a few years since I was swinging spanners for a living :eek: I'm sure it shows :rolleyes:
 
Thin_trucker said:
Any way of checking for this after it's fitted? I'd guess the car would move when in gear with clutch pedal depressed if this were the case - it doesn't :confused:

It's been a few years since I was swinging spanners for a living :eek: I'm sure it shows :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
you may just need to bleed it some more ,does fluid splash back in res when pedal pumped
 
I haven't watched for that, but I ended up pressure bleeding it. It is behaving like it needs bleeding but, with the piston in the slave cylinder held back, the pedal's nice and firm :confused:
 
Sounds like it needs bleeding to me! If the fluid moves in the reservoir when pressing the clutch pedal it's usually a master cylinder fault. Fluid stays still its slave cylinder that needs attention.
 
I had a britpart clutch fitted to my first discovery back in 2009 it was the same as yours. i even had to put in reverse before starting engine.the mechanic who fitted it said the friction plate was to thick. and suggested i slip the clutch a bit i did this and it improved but was never the best.
 
Sorted it! Friction plate was dodgy, I tried to swap it but pay the difference on a better brand but sadly they didn't have any others!

So, replacement ****part friction plate and another spigot bearing (just so I could be sure) and all better.

Trouble is, the only reason for doing the job was the release bearing was noisy but - the noise is still there! In neutral when clutch is released. I guess it's the input shaft bearing, any ideas?
 
jamesmartin said:
whats the noise like ?
Click to expand...

Exactly like a knackered release bearing, not chattering but not quite a rumble either, erm, the sound of something obviously spinning but not quite as smooth as a well oiled machine if that makes sense. Does it exactly the same time as a release bearing too - engine running, in neutral without clutch pressed. Stops when I press the clutch but not as soon as I move the pedal, stops where the clutch releases.
 
Silly question, but it's not had a solid flywheel conversion previously? You'd expect some gearbox chatter in neutral if so...

If it's still DMF, could it be on it's last legs?
 
It's a dual mass, but that's not what it sounds like in my opinion though I've only ever seen a couple of noisy dmfs, they sort of clattered - this is more constant, like I said just like a noisy release bearing :dunno: though I doubt it's that as its new (deja vous - I thought that about the clutch......)
 
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