Clutch or turbo fault????

Hi All

Ok I know I am starting to sound like a Discovery hypochondriac but I don't know if it is just me struggling to get used to my new Discovery (actually an old Discovery) or whether it still isn't quite right

On quite a few occasions I have pulled off and the turbo seems not to kick in. The engine almost sounds like I am revving it without being in gear. This tends to happen in 1st and 2nd gear mostly. I'm not sure if this is a sign that the clutch needs replacing or whether the turbo is just failing to kick in, does that sound stupid. It isn't really doing the same as my last car (Isuzu Trooper) when the clutch needed replacing on that which is why I am thinking it might be a problem with the Turbo.

I am also still struggling with power when I am towing. It is generally fine but I have to go up quite a big hill to get back to the stables where I keep my horse and last time I had to go up most of the way in 1st gear. My trailer and horse as a comination weigh approx 1800kg and I would have thought it should have no problem doing this.

My friend is going to have another look at it for me but is on holiday this week. I he can't get to the bottom of it I am going to send it to a local LR specialist for them to have a look at it.

Ta

Katharine

Td5 discovery? Or 300 tdi? Or what registration is it?

Sorry it's a Td5 engine 2004 plate

Manual or automatic transmission Katherine?

Autos are pretty slow from a start anyway. Manuals are too, but respond better to a re-map in this respect from what I have read on here.

Ditching the catalytic converter would be a good idea, but you will have to find a nice MOT man who will "not notice it's missing" it for you. This is a good cheapish mod (about £80) and you will imediately notice that you can now hear your turbo whistling like it's supposed to do.

Clean the little sensor in the top of the inlet manifold with brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner. There is another in the air filter box that you can clean also.

You can also get rid of the egr valve (a kit costs £28 from Paddocks) and can be done in half an hour. Also the turbo hoses tend to de-laminate on the inside - replace with silicone ones for around £60.

You can also get rid of the centre silencer box but it makes the car a bit more "boomy" when it's pulling - maybe not so good for a nervous horse if you are pulling a box.

does your turbo whistle?

Hi Katherine, the first thing I would suggest is to make sure that everything is working as it should, allow me to explain:

1. Replace the air filter. Diesels are very hungry for air and IF the air filter is not near enough brand new you won't get best pulling power from the motor.
Paddocks.com will supply you with a 4-piece filter kit for about £20 inc tax:

DA6004 | Filter Kit - Def TD5 and Disco TD5

2. Oil in the ECU plugs - very common issue. Oil migrates down a cable from the head and terminates at the plug and socket joints of the main engine ECU. This ECU is held in place with one screw and is located next to the battery, in the engine bay. Undo the screw, wiggle the ECU out and disconnect the black and red connectors. If there is ANY oil in the red plug or socket you can clean it out using Brake and clutch aerosol spray; then allow to dry. Now re-install.

3. The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor is gunged up - again very well-known issue. Remove the main large black engine cover, then look to the left of the engine and you will find the MAP on the inlet manifold. It's help in place with 2 x 8mm screws. Remove the screws, disconnect the electrical connector then clean with Brake and clean cleaner - DO NOT POKE ANYTHING DOWN THIS SENSOR OR YOU WILL DAMAGE IT ! The aerosol cleaner is quite sufficient. Once it has dried (about 3-5 mins is adequate) re-install and re-connect.

4. Replace the catted exhaust downpipe for one without a cat - cost about £40 and worth every penny.

5. Clean the MAF - same issue as with the MAP, this sensor gets gunged up and therefore gives dodgy info to the ECU. Remove, clean and re-install. Do a test run, the disconnect the electrical connector and do the same test run and compare performances. Any difference? If there is, which is better - connected or not connected?

6. Check that the brakes aren't binding even slightly - this will suck engine power. How do you do this? It's easy, find a bit of quiet road, drive at 10mph and allow the vehicle to come to a halt WITHOUT touching the brakes. What you are looking for is a slight binding sensation JUST BEFORE the car actually stops. If it doesn't exhibit this, you ain't got that problem.

Hope that given you something to think about. I tow an Ifor Williams 510R with a 17hh big boy and a 16.2hh slimmer Jim with my manual gear TD5 and she tows that lot with ease. I don't mean fast, but well within her capabilities.

Having worked your way through the list above, then consider a re-map. It'll cost about £225 to £250, (my recommendation would be Mike at Dynachip Tuning because he is just great) and will really give your Disco some real heave-ho !!!

Good luck

Dave

Katherine,
where are you located?
It sounds like you need someone impartial, but experienced with td5's to drive it & compare it to what they know as "normal".
Have someone you know with you to give confidence if needed.
That should help identify where the problem is.