Clutch on a '98 TDi 300

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thebiglad

Well-Known Member
Posts
7,387
Location
Central France
Hi all, 5 mins ago the clutch pedal on my wife's Disco (Dora) dropped to the floor and didn't come up again.

When you hand operate it, there is a slight sensation of it going over a pivot point and then it springs up again, but no clutch operation.

I'm thinking that maybe it could be:

1. Slave cylinder or master cylinder:

2. Clutch fork


I would welcome any ideas which will help me diagnose and repair this problem.

Cheers
Dave
 
So, the "release arm" - is this something different to the clutch fork which as I understand it is a weakness and welding a reinforcing plate strenthens it?

If it is something different - what is it please and where is it, in the scheme of things??

Cheers for your replies

Dave
 
How did you drive with no clutch ?

Engine off, put in first gear and handbrake off,
Check all clear and crank engine with a little throttle and car will start and move off, it may jump a little but do not be concerned.

Go a little higher in the gears than you would normaly, when you are ready to change gear, come off the throttle at exactly the same time as you pull the gearstick into neutral, now give a few revs and again as the revs are falling apply a bit of pressure to the gear lever towards the second gear position.

As the revs of the engine fall and match the second gear cog it will slip into gear, if the gear fails to select then rev again just a bit higher this time and have another go. Do not force the lever at any time, the pressure on the gear lever should be pretty much the same as when changing with a working clutch, repeat for all other gears going up.

Now coming down the box tends to be a little harder, to save on the inevitable crunches when learning this method it is better to jump gears for example missing fourth and slowing enough for third.

Again miss second (both 'iffy' with LT77 & R380) slow the car down as much as need be for example a sharp bend in third, now gently pull the gear lever into neutral from example fifth, give a rev and apply pressure again this time into third, if you get it right it will go straight in, if not leave in neutral and give another rev only this time a little higher and try again as the revs fall

It all sounds so easy and it is if you can visualise matching the teeth on cogs to get them to mesh, sometimes you need to rev again to get the speeds to match. In general it is better (IMHO) to be travelling a little slower than normal when selecting a gear coming down the box and accelerating to a higher speed before changing up.

Now stopping (I just knew you would ask!) Try to drive the way everyone should i.e. anticipate the need to POSSIBLY stop, for example if you see a car waiting to enter a roundabout back right off of the throttle and with a bit of luck they will be gone when you get there and you may be able to keep going however, if you are forced to a hard stop come to a stop rlling in neutral and switch off.

Select first and be ready to 'crank and go' when all is clear repeat as above.

NOTE: Missing gears i.e. fifth to third for example will not harm the gearbox as long as you select them at speeds similar to when you are driving normaly.

I do this a lot when driving HGV's, you try shifting 20 odd gears up and down in the city! The clutches on HGV's tend to be reliable but on the occasions it does happen the above method is a good way to get you up the road and away from blocking a junction in the middle of London for example.

For what it's worth try doing this when the car (or any car) is working ok, it is good practise.

Sorry if it is a bit long winded all,

regards

Dave
 
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