clutch master cylinder

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Muggie

New Member
Posts
2
Location
Burton
Hi All, hope everyone is ok and hope someone can help.. I am not mechanically minded but is seems that some plastic clips on the black ram part has snapped and has come off the bracket making the clutch fail, I have managed to put it back together but keeps popping off so can i ask if for a temporary fix till i get paid on Friday whether cable ties and gaffer tape will hold the cylinder in place in the bracket. best regards and thanks everyone.. Lee (new member)
 
I presume you have a 1.8 or early Rover diesel rather than the TD4.

I believe people have used cable ties - but that may be to help stop it breaking in the first place.

Sorry I can't help, hopefully some one will be along who can help or you can sort it yourself.

If you do get a replacement, it is a complete self contained hydraulic component of master & slave (the bits that's broken away) and the piping between. Not sure on the price. They often fail because the clutch release arm it pushes against becomes seized as its bar goes through the bell housing casing to the clutch - so some lubricant on that area (eg engine oil) when you replace it is recommended I believe. Also check the bracket that the slave clips to for damage caused by the same reason. They can get cracks in them for the same reason. They are not to expensive to replace I believe.
 
I presume you have a 1.8 or early Rover diesel rather than the TD4.

I believe people have used cable ties - but that may be to help stop it breaking in the first place.

Sorry I can't help, hopefully some one will be along who can help or you can sort it yourself.

If you do get a replacement, it is a complete self contained hydraulic component of master & slave (the bits that's broken away) and the piping between. Not sure on the price. They often fail because the clutch release arm it pushes against becomes seized as its bar goes through the bell housing casing to the clutch - so some lubricant on that area (eg engine oil) when you replace it is recommended I believe. Also check the bracket that the slave clips to for damage caused by the same reason. They can get cracks in them for the same reason. They are not to expensive to replace I believe.
Hi GrumpyGel,

thats brill to know as yes it is the early model as on 53 plate but it seems the plastic clips that clip into bracket sheared.. am trying to figure out of there is anyway of strengthening them once repaired. would you know if anyone on the forum sells spares at all as be nice to be within the Landy crowd lol.. :) regards Lee
 
During my brief foray into freelander ownership I did have this problem with the clutch slave. to stop it flexing and moving around once you have a new clip just wedge a bit of wood behind it to take out the flex. you will probably find the clutch bite point will be a bit higher as well.
 
Hi GrumpyGel,

thats brill to know as yes it is the early model as on 53 plate but it seems the plastic clips that clip into bracket sheared.. am trying to figure out of there is anyway of strengthening them once repaired. would you know if anyone on the forum sells spares at all as be nice to be within the Landy crowd lol.. :) regards Lee
There is a Freelander "community" specific outfit that can sell you a replacement more conventional separate master and slave setup...

https://www.muddymods.com/collections/freelander-1/Clutch

That is also sold by other places as well, it does though cost a lot more than a direct replacement with OEM parts.

Other than that you are into the Land Rover specific parts suppliers. There's lots of them, you can shop around or use your one of choice ... eg Rimmer Bros, Paddocks, LRDirect etc etc. Most general motor factors will also be able to supply the parts. With virtually every component for Freelander, buying cheap does not mean buying twice.... it means buying many times! The cheaper 'aftermarket' suppliers will invariably mean much poorer quality that will fail quickly. Having said that if you buy 'genuine' LR products, they are usually extremely over priced. My preference is to use OEM parts where ever possible and practical.

Clutch hydraulics is a prime example of this. This age lists what I believe is the part you need to replace the clutch hydraulics on your motor (but I haven't checked so don't necessarily go by this)...

https://www.lrdirect.com/STC000180-Clutch-Master-Slave-Cyls-Freeland/?keep_https=yes

You can see the massive differences in price between LR, original equipment and aftermarket. I don't know what the quality is like on these aftermarket parts, buy going in blind I would expect poor.
 
but it seems the plastic clips that clip into bracket sheared.. am trying to figure out of there is anyway of strengthening them once repaired.

You will be better off freeing off the clutch release lever where it enters the gearbox. The bush is known to seize solid which overloads the plastic hydraulic components.
 
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