Clutch kits and flywheel

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freebiker

Well-Known Member
Posts
2,815
Location
Rebel County, Ireland
Been looking at clutch kits and flywheels for my girl as i'm pretty sure they're on the way out and the extra power she's giving out really is not helping.

I'm getting a grinding as i lift up the clutch pulling away in first so think my flywheel may be warped?

Anyway, on the PTP site and looking at clutch kits for the elise. Rather than a bog standard clutch kit, i'm thinking the AP racing clutch (uprated) would be better than the original LR clutch. Before anyone mentions i can't locate a genuine LR uprated clutch anywhere and my local dealer can't get hold of one.

As for the flywheel, i'm thinking of the following
PTP - Ultra-Lightweight Flywheel suitable for all 1.8 K Series Engines

It mentions it's stronger than the original equipment flywheels on the elises but what i'd like to know is if the freelanders were fitted with stronger flywheels than any other K engined car due to the size.

If the flywheels were pretty much the same throughout all the original K series including in the freelander then i'm guessing the above could be stronger and definitely worth the upgrade.

I did look into if Caterham used the PG1 gearbox as they would have been bound to make an uprated clutch but i'm sure they used their own 6 speed gearbox on the K's.

Any thoughts would be appreciated and if someones knows any reason why the above kit wouldn't fit my freelander... please tell me :eek:
 
Giving this a bump as now a few gears are hard to engage. On short trips it seems as soon as the engine has warmed up i can't get her into 1st or second. Can sometimes get her into 3rd and manage to pull away. It seems to get worse as she gets warmer, set off and no problem selecting gears, then it starts to get harder and harder nd i have to be a bit rough with her until i get scared of snapping my gear lever.

Other symptoms are a crunch when going into reverse (unless i let her idle for a second after going into nuetral).

No clutch judder or slipping yet but something does smell very hot at times.

Would really appreciate some feedback... N.I.? Anyone? :eek:
 
what year is it if its an early 1.8 then u wont need to change flywheel as its a solid flywheel anyway an to be fair the standard luk clutch for freelander is fine an will cope fine just make sure u change the gearbox oil an its just a normal release bearing put u could be havin problems with your slave cylinder an not your clutch unless the clutch is slipping
 
Thanks for the reply, it's a 2000 freelander. Was on my mind to replace gearbox oil as i'm not sure when it was last done.

Slave cylinder is good and dandy. I replaced this a few months ago as the bracket snapped and screwed the old cylinder. Cylinder rod is moving as it should and it's still hard to select gears.

Flywheel is suspect as i sometimes get an awful judder when pulling away.
 
Could just be the fork, not fully releasing the plate? hence she's over heating.

I'd say the clutch plate is slightly warped, flywheel should be nice and smooth and not pan fried with rivet marks.

I have the HD clutch plate, great job, do you need part number?

Haven't used the racing clutches 5" and 7" plenty of write ups on them, personally think they're over priced.

As for the light weight flywheel, thats just a racing weight thingy, I would leave the original one on
 
common fault on rovers an freelanders is seized or partially seized fork arm as lets face it theres no difference between gearboxes which may of caused your slave to go in first place as it wont be releasin the bearin fully so the next thing that will happen is your thrust bearin will start squealin
 
Cheers for the reply guys.

I've already got the part number for the heavy duty clutch, UQB100770L. Might have a couple of leads on finding one now, but my dealer locally couldn't get hold of it.

I think i'm going to have the gearbox out and just replace the fork, release bearing and clutch. I'll take a look at what the condition of the flywheel is while it's out.
 
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