Clutch job - few questions

I've seen the excellent how to for replacing a clutch but had a few questions for those who have done it.

1. I don't have an alignment tool for the clutch, what part is used to make this, is it the end of a crank shaft, what is it called? Are there any alternatives? Is it worth just doing the clutch fork and release bearing if the clutch looks ok, saving £70 on clutch and not having to worry about the alignment?

2. I've read about using threaded bar to help with the alignment on refitting the bell housing. What thread, how many and how long please?

3. How many jacks are required? A bottle/screw type jack to stop the engine moving. Will one trolley jack support the whole bellhousing? Anything else?

If anyone has a link to a 'how to' which they have used I would be interested to compare a couple.

Can it be done single-handed or is there too much to go wrong?

alignment tool is less than £20 if you can't find a suitable tube/bar/rod

M10 - buy some machine screws (with the shank unthreaded) about 250mm long

a trolley under the box will do fine - or some rope and a hoist over the roof

there's a good how to on lr4x4

a steady days work single handed

while you have the box away replace everything

Is it not easyier to pull the engine rather than he box gives better access i think

dyte said:

Is it not easyier to pull the engine rather than he box gives better access i think

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each to their own eh

has he got an engine hoist ?

Fair point but i would hiring one rather than crawing about under there **** that at this time of year

Use a socket on a extension for clutch aliment tool. Take box out so you can see what your doing as its your first time.
To not change the clutch would be foolish.

You never said what engine and model it is??

You will need any jack that goes high enough to support g/box while you undo mounts (remove bell housing bolts first) then lower box down while pushing it off the engine (slowly) and replace 3 piece clutch and then follow instruction in reverse for re-fitting
GOOD LUCK!!
Let us know how you get on.

dyte said:

Is it not easyier to pull the engine rather than he box gives better access i think

Click to expand...

I prefer this on landrovers but not if TD5 due to wires and time.

Number of jacks depends on model.On a 300 i belive the engine tilts forward on it mounts so you need to support this. You could block it but a jack would allow you to adjust it .On a 200 it just sits there. bottle and trolley jack worked for me on the gear box.As for alignment tool a long socket with a bit of tape round it worked.

a bottle jack on panhard rod holds engine well

I placed a bottle jack to the front of the engine and used a trolley jack under the box whilst using the threaded bar to keep the box alignment as I was doing it on my own.

The car was on axle stands and there was enough room underneath. I had thought of moving the engine but to be honest my drive is gravel so having some plywood under a trolley jack was best.

All in all it took me two days but I was going steady and making sure that I was doing stuff right. If I have to do it again I would be able to do it in a day easily. BTW leave the top bell housing bolt out as it will make it easier second time around as you have to drop the engine and box all the way down just to get to it.

As mentioned above.mif you make the effort to split the box then replace everything and use a tie wrap to hold the clip on. The clutch fork as it can drop out when removing the slave cylinder at a later date.

Hope this helps.

i took one out in less than an hour to strip down and replace 5th gear syncro and bearing

Thanks all, it is a 300TDI. I don't have a hoist or a workshop (won't fit in garage) so wouldn't be keen to remove the engine. I think it could be a pain to do either way outside in this weather!

The alignment of the clutch is that just something which is a snug fit through the centre, I assume there is something behind it of the same size? How deep does it go, what size socket? I could get a piece of bar turned to an accurate diameter (within 0.1mm) if that would be best, and if I knew the exact diameter.

2nd gear can be a bit tricky to engage (syncro issue?), I thought it could just be because there was only a little clutch movement when it was running. If I dropped the box out rather than trying to hold the alignment with threaded bar is this something which is relatively easy to inspect, although I wouldn't know what to look for!

I suppose if I drop the box I could do an oil change easily too. Dropping it completely sounds like it could be a better option, will be able to see what i'm doing having not seen inside one before and lower risk than working with a very heavy lump balanced on a trolley jack.

I also assume doing it on a slight incline would be a nightmare? Will probably have to pay to get it towed to my parents on their drive which is level.

Clutch tools are cheap see link CLUTCH ALIGNMENT TOOL for 200 & 300 TDI & TD5 ENGINES | eBay
As for your incline use ramps to level it out (depends on how steep it is lol)
Take the box out of the way if you havent done one before and are going down the box route rather than engine