clutch diagnosis

Ok, who's gonna be a clever boy and correctly diagnose this before i pull it all apart and find out;
Driving along all normal, clutch down, gear change fine, but pedal comes up very slowly as if binding. Same thing happens again straight after, and then third time the pedal just goes straight down with no resistance, clutch no longer works. There is no fluid loss, hydraulics all ok. Whats broke?

pushrod/fork/thrust bearing?
Ad

you mean clutch no longer clears to enable you to select a gear ? are you sure master and slave are okay ,have you cked push rod in pedal box under the cover with 6 screws

I vote for master cylinder as the slave wouldn't (?) affect the return of the pedal. Or the pedal pivot dry or return spring missing

sounds to me like the pressure forks in the clutch plate gone weak or a few of them broke causing a weak return and hardly any resistance when they warm up

or its the seals gone in the master cylinder losing pressure by letting the fluid past rather than pushing it into the slave its going back into the reservoir

Are you able to select gears with out the pedal pushed and with no grinding but then no drive ?
That would mean clutch is either worn out or or not engaging
Take out the tunnel covers and look at the slave cylinder see if that's moving the arm or slacken the slave cylinder bleed nipple see if that releases it

Internal break down of master cylinder seals.

tottot said:

Internal break down of master cylinder seals.

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Agree!

internal collapse of the flexie hose

I'm putting a quid on the master cylinder - any other takers?

Symptoms exactly the same as when my master cylinder seals failed.
No obvious leakage but level did drop (slowly) in MC.
Unfortunately coincided with alternator/flat battery problems,so made life interesting!!

I took the master cylinder off, and also the link hose as it was past best.

Got a replacement (Britpart unfortunately!) seal kit from local suppler and cleaned everything up and fitted seals and new hose.
Had replacement new master cylinder "on standby" just incase internal surfaces worn.

No need to worry as new seals did the trick!!

Took no more than an hour in total, working at a leisurely pace.

Mark

OK, cheers for the replies.

Had chance to take a look yesterday, pressed clutch pedal couple times and there was resistance again but felt like it was binding/sticking (almost like metal on metal rubbing). No evidence of fluid leakage. Checked inside pedal box, the actuator rod was all ok, sprayed WD40 everywhere just to lube pivot. Few more presses of pedal, still binding a bit then gradually eased until felt normal. Started up, drove off and works fine.

The 'binding' could be felt close to the pedal if u know what i mean - didn't feel like it was all the way down at the clutch bearing - so i suspect MC is the correct diagnosis and it will probably let go completely pretty soon.

Also, how strange that this should happen only a few weeks after replacing the slave cylinder.........surprise surprise

most possibly is m/c .not surprising after changing slave, but on rod it had a nut tight up to both sides of pedal ,and its pivoting on rod okay

yeah - i did spray loads of oil on the pivot so possibly was the rod movement/angle and might have affected piston movement causing binding.

Landy-ads said:

Also, how strange that this should happen only a few weeks after replacing the slave cylinder.........

Click to expand...

Not strange at all as you have bled the system so the seals have gone past where they would stop in normal use.

John