Clutch Change

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Tuskenraider

New Member
Posts
1,248
Location
Basildon, Essex
So the clutch is starting to slip in 4th and 5th around 2000rpm. got a Wales trip planned next month so want to do it ASAP.

Looking through some threads here I see the borg & Beck (or AP as its now known) is probably the clutch of choice (did see the Britpart 'Heavy duty' one is stupid cheap but its rubbish) but whats the easier method of changing?

Struggle getting the box off from underneath or take the engine out? I will be doing it on my drive :)
 
So the clutch is starting to slip in 4th and 5th around 2000rpm. got a Wales trip planned next month so want to do it ASAP.

Looking through some threads here I see the borg & Beck (or AP as its now known) is probably the clutch of choice (did see the Britpart 'Heavy duty' one is stupid cheap but its rubbish) but what's the easier method of changing?

Struggle getting the box off from underneath or take the engine out? I will be doing it on my drive :)

I did mine from underneath. Not too bad a job but definitely double-handed. The weight of the gearbox/transfer box assembly is SIGNIFICANT!

Take the props off, exhaust off then slide the whole assembly back on a trolley jack.


Dave
 
I used an engine crane though the drivers door to suspend the gearbox by a strap through the tunnel and let it down gently, it was abit awkward underneath though as the feet get in the way.

I used a britpart heavy duty clutch as it was the only one I could get in a hurry and surprisingly I had no issues with it. Did afew pay and plays, abit of towing and general road miles. Sold the car after about 10k miles though so could comment on longevity.
 
Hi,

I have to do the clutch on my V8 Discovery, I have had silly quotes (£550+) from specialists to do the work.

I have done clutches and gearboxes on defenders and its easy, crane in through the door with the floor removed, no heavy lifting. The disco clutch changed scared me as the box is sooo heavy.

Anyway currently helping a friend rebuild a Snatch Landrover which is lightly armoured so we just hooked the engine out, change the clutch and put it back in. Easy.

So now I am not worried about doing the clutch on the disco and I will definitely remove the engine to do it rather than struggle with the gearbox on jacks etc
 
I changed mine by dropping the box a few weeks ago which is much easier by splitting the tbox off. After putting it all back and change the engine oil as I had just bought the disco with dubious service history and discovered the rear crank sealis gone! Long story short take the engine out and change the crank seal when access is easy. Weld a patch over the clutch fork while your in there
 
I need to change my oil filter housing for one I have modified to take gauge senders so I can do that at the same time so it looks like the engine is coming out :D

Ordered a Britpart clutch, HD fork and new spigot bush.
 
Iv done quite a few clutches now and also gearbox and engine changes. I would say its easier dropping the gearbox out. Can do it in around 3 hours now with he car on the floor (no ramp) If you go down the route of removing the engine its definitely a longer job and you will also need to change oil and coolant as the radiator etc will need disconnected and removed. Mark
 
You don't need to change it but you will loose some oil when you disconnect the oil cooler. Its up to you which way you go it. I just think its much faster and easier pulling the box. If your only doing the clutch you won't even have to fully remove it. If you use an engjne crane through the tunnel you should be able to slide the box back far enough to change the clutch then slide it back in.
 
I had my 300tdi replaced a few weeks ago. Put a defender 130 clutch in (valeo), it's what people mean when they say heavy duty. You would need pressure and friction plates, clutch fork, bearing and bearing carrier all off the 130. Part numbers are on the forum if you do a search.
 
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