clutch adjusting

When I looked into prices for new clutch and rear main seal they were coming in at £500 incl parts labour vat etc.

ive bin told if i by the kit the mechanic will do it for £200 cash ,bits ordered tonight pick up sat may get her done before xmas

I'd jump at that! Good price

as the others have said but when i did mine i cheated and only moved the box back like you would for a thrust bearing its ok if you have small hands but yer it can be done in a day on your own taking the seat box out thats just bad news to many rusty bolts with no space for a grinder i make a point if its not a threaded hole put a metric nut and bolt it in cause you cant get the imperial bolts out here so i have a stash of them

Sorry to hijack this thread-I have searched and this is the nearest thread to my problem. On my 2a the bite point is right on the floor. It bites nicely and no sign of slipping. I would like to know if there is a way I could adjust the bite point a little higher?(because it wont work when I put my mats in) As the pedal is really heavy, it is a real pain when I am stuck in traffic.

The peddle has the correct travel ad I have replaced the pipe. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

after checking system is bled and ok ,under top cover on pedal box is m/c push rod it can be adjusted , yours would need it adjusting towards end of the rod to give great travel in cylinder

sm0129 said:

Sorry to hijack this thread-I have searched and this is the nearest thread to my problem. On my 2a the bite point is right on the floor. It bites nicely and no sign of slipping. I would like to know if there is a way I could adjust the bite point a little higher?(because it wont work when I put my mats in) As the pedal is really heavy, it is a real pain when I am stuck in traffic.

The peddle has the correct travel ad I have replaced the pipe. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Click to expand...

the 2a slave cylinder is mounted under the drivers side floor plate, the rod that comes out of it can be adjusted

your pedal shouldn't be excessively heavy so i'll guess the bronze spherical bearing on the outer end of the cross-shaft is siezed to the cross-shaft, they never get oiled and then rust gets onto the crss-shaft and locks the two together, i stripped mine, cleared the rust off and liberally applied copper ease

jamesmartin said:

after checking system is bled and ok ,under top cover on pedal box is m/c push rod it can be adjusted , yours would need it adjusting towards end of the rod to give great travel in cylinder

Click to expand...

I have adjusted the m/c push rod and the slave cylinder as far as they will go- but the bite point is still on the floor.

I have read elsewhere that the clutch lever can wear, but I would not hsve thought that this would make a significant difference?

Very easy to replace clutch yourself proving you have an engine hoist. I would recommend gearbox out. some people do engine out, choice is yours really. you may already know this , but do not buy a britpart one. buy a Borg and Beck clutch pack.

Re: Low pedal:

On a IIA one thing to check is the condition of the pins between the lever arm and the actuating mechanism. The bit between the two (the sleeve) is linked in at both ends with hardened steel pins - and these are noted to occasionally shear. When they do you can get symptoms as you describe if one end is broken - the mechanism does't fully release or releases at the very end of its travel.

On IIAs early the pins were straight bits, chamfered both ends and cross-holes drilled for split pins - these were installed with washers. Later ones used a flat-headed oin with flat end and cross drilling for spllit pin.

These are still commonly available, unless you're a cheap git with a machine shop (like me) and you make them up out of oil-hardening silver steel (1/4" diameter).

ajr