Cluch Jamb

Can you experienced Defender enthusiasts give me some advice on a clutch problem, please?

I've looked at lots of the clutch related threads on here, but I've found nothing similar to the problem I've had.

I was driving slowly in low ratio (2nd, I think) towing a trailer recently. Everything normal till I tried to change gear. Clutch pedal went down an inch or two and then was solid. It was as though a metal bar had been inserted into the pedal mechanism to prevent it from working. It had worked perfectly 10 second before!

I've checked by looking up from inside the foot well and from above having taken the cover off the pedal box, but all appears to be in order in and around the pedal and master cylinder.

My plan now is to remove the slave cylinder to see if this frees up the hydraulics, which will mean the problem is within the bell housing. Hoping it's the hydraulics!

Unfortunately, I've managed to round off one of the bolt heads (yes, it's the top one!) despite care and trying not to. Very odd size. Seems like 9.5mm across flats. None of my imperial or metric sockets fitted, so having freed it slightly (maybe 30°) with a hammer and chisel, I've bought a 9mm 12 point socket to hammer over the mortal remains of the head. If that fails, its hacksaw and double nut time. I think there will be just enough thread pocking out with the slave cylinder removed.

The vehicle is a 1998 Defender 90 300Tdi. I've had it nearly eight years. It has about 125k miles on the clock. I only do about 1000 mile a year, quite a bit of which is in low ratio around my field with a trailer. Most of the road work is local journeys also with a trailer, but long enough to get the engine and transmission up to temperature. The previous owner only used it as a car, so it was lightly used then. Apart from wheels and tyres, It's standard. I did replace the clutch master cylinder about a year ago. I was on the road when the pedal went "thud" and stayed down. Limped home with no clutch. Luckily no trailer. With a new master cylinder and the system bled, all well till the pedal jamb.

If I need to get at the clutch, is it possible to drop the gearbox, or does the engine have to come out?

I have access to a workshop with a pit and jacking beam, compressor, and a wide selection of tools including a torque wrench. I also have the Haynes manual, but apart from torque values and specifications, I reckon it's not that useful.

Any clues? All input will be gratefully received.

release arm pushing through the pivot is quite likely if so get ftc2957hd

I have no idea really so would trust James diagnosis, BUT 1st you could loosen the bleed nipple on the slave and see what the pedal does then, might rule out the master for you.
Apologies if I'm talking out my arse.

You may find the slave cyl is at its max and has bottomed out and then thud, solid pedal. As above pivot ball has punched through clutch lever. If it is then I would take engine out and leave gearbox in place.

Gmacz said:

You may find the slave cyl is at its max and has bottomed out and then thud, solid pedal. As above pivot ball has punched through clutch lever. If it is then I would take engine out and leave gearbox in place.

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I would disagree with this and would always move the gearbox back to change the clutch, but there is not much in it, so it is simply what you prefer and are more comfortable doing.

The clutch system is relatively simple, and the failure of the pivot is common enough, and thus quite likely given the symptoms you describe, and the mileage.....

Engine out or gearbox out is personal preference - I have done it both ways, and neither floats my boat! But neither is crazy difficult either

In a deafener - the clutch can be done from above, taking the floor out, and moving the gb backwards .... or if you have an engine crane you could go that route ....

Many thanks for all your helpful advice, folks.

I've been busy on other work for the last couple of weeks, so I still havn't got the slave cylinder off yet. No doubt when I finally get the rounded head bolt out and the slave cylinder off, all will be revealed.

I'll post an update when the slave cylinder is off.

Thanks again!

Some Irwin bolt extractors are good for removing round headed nuts/bolts.

tottot said:

Some Irwin bolt extractors are good for removing round headed nuts/bolts.

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+1 - amazing things - cheapest way of dealing with such "inconvenience" known (well, apart from a bit of petrol and a match )

Well the engine is now out and so here's the update.

I managed to remove the clutch slave cylinder bolt with the 9mm 12 point socked hammered on, but thanks for the heads-up on the Irwin bolt extractors. Never come across those before, so might well buy a set.

Nothing obviously wrong with the slave cylinder, so out came the engine. Ye Gods, It's a big heavy lump!

Well done James Martin. You were spot on. The pivot ball has burst through the worn hemispherical socket in the release fork (see attached pic. Sorry it's rotated 90 degrees. Don't know why it did this). Thus the slave cylinder end has bottomed out on a bit of the bell housing causing the apparent pedal jam. No movement on the release bearing.

The clutch cover diaphragm "fingers" are worn where the release bearing makes contact and the release bearing looks tied as well. Not surrising after 125k miles.

I'll take James' advise and fit a reinforced release fork and I'll also replace all the other parts. It would be a false economy and just plain daft not to.

Bearing in mind the towing I do, a moderately beefed up clutch seems to be a good idea. I've done a comprehensive trawl of the web and this forum for ideas on new parts. The consensus seems to be Valeo is good, AP Driveline (formerly Borg & beck) not so good (now made in China) and Britpart best avoided.

I then spoke to a very knowledgeable chap called Neil at "Rakeway" this afternoon. He recommended a Valeo Defender 130 friction plate (he called it a "High Cap" plate ), a Britpart heavy duty cover assembly and a Rakeway all metal release bearing. Apparently the 130 friction plate has stronger shock absorbing coil springs which are better able to stand up the the rigours of towing. He also suggested replacing the slave cylinder rod as well because these wear at the slave cylinder end, apparently. I will also replace the flywheel bearing bush that takes the nose of the first motion shaft.

I questioned his "Blue Box" heavy duty cover assembly suggestion, but he is sure it's actually good kit. He did say that I should throw away the friction plate and release bearing that come with it, though!

I intend to follow Neil at Rakeway's advise unless anyone can think of a good reason to do something different.

I also had more trouble with nut and bolt hex and thread sizes during the engine removal, but I'll post separately on that in a day or two.

Thanks again for all the advice.