ManfromStroud
New Member
- Posts
- 7
- Location
- Stroud, Glos
Can you experienced Defender enthusiasts give me some advice on a clutch problem, please?
I've looked at lots of the clutch related threads on here, but I've found nothing similar to the problem I've had.
I was driving slowly in low ratio (2nd, I think) towing a trailer recently. Everything normal till I tried to change gear. Clutch pedal went down an inch or two and then was solid. It was as though a metal bar had been inserted into the pedal mechanism to prevent it from working. It had worked perfectly 10 second before!
I've checked by looking up from inside the foot well and from above having taken the cover off the pedal box, but all appears to be in order in and around the pedal and master cylinder.
My plan now is to remove the slave cylinder to see if this frees up the hydraulics, which will mean the problem is within the bell housing. Hoping it's the hydraulics!
Unfortunately, I've managed to round off one of the bolt heads (yes, it's the top one!) despite care and trying not to. Very odd size. Seems like 9.5mm across flats. None of my imperial or metric sockets fitted, so having freed it slightly (maybe 30°) with a hammer and chisel, I've bought a 9mm 12 point socket to hammer over the mortal remains of the head. If that fails, its hacksaw and double nut time. I think there will be just enough thread pocking out with the slave cylinder removed.
The vehicle is a 1998 Defender 90 300Tdi. I've had it nearly eight years. It has about 125k miles on the clock. I only do about 1000 mile a year, quite a bit of which is in low ratio around my field with a trailer. Most of the road work is local journeys also with a trailer, but long enough to get the engine and transmission up to temperature. The previous owner only used it as a car, so it was lightly used then. Apart from wheels and tyres, It's standard. I did replace the clutch master cylinder about a year ago. I was on the road when the pedal went "thud" and stayed down. Limped home with no clutch. Luckily no trailer. With a new master cylinder and the system bled, all well till the pedal jamb.
If I need to get at the clutch, is it possible to drop the gearbox, or does the engine have to come out?
I have access to a workshop with a pit and jacking beam, compressor, and a wide selection of tools including a torque wrench. I also have the Haynes manual, but apart from torque values and specifications, I reckon it's not that useful.
Any clues? All input will be gratefully received.
I've looked at lots of the clutch related threads on here, but I've found nothing similar to the problem I've had.
I was driving slowly in low ratio (2nd, I think) towing a trailer recently. Everything normal till I tried to change gear. Clutch pedal went down an inch or two and then was solid. It was as though a metal bar had been inserted into the pedal mechanism to prevent it from working. It had worked perfectly 10 second before!
I've checked by looking up from inside the foot well and from above having taken the cover off the pedal box, but all appears to be in order in and around the pedal and master cylinder.
My plan now is to remove the slave cylinder to see if this frees up the hydraulics, which will mean the problem is within the bell housing. Hoping it's the hydraulics!
Unfortunately, I've managed to round off one of the bolt heads (yes, it's the top one!) despite care and trying not to. Very odd size. Seems like 9.5mm across flats. None of my imperial or metric sockets fitted, so having freed it slightly (maybe 30°) with a hammer and chisel, I've bought a 9mm 12 point socket to hammer over the mortal remains of the head. If that fails, its hacksaw and double nut time. I think there will be just enough thread pocking out with the slave cylinder removed.
The vehicle is a 1998 Defender 90 300Tdi. I've had it nearly eight years. It has about 125k miles on the clock. I only do about 1000 mile a year, quite a bit of which is in low ratio around my field with a trailer. Most of the road work is local journeys also with a trailer, but long enough to get the engine and transmission up to temperature. The previous owner only used it as a car, so it was lightly used then. Apart from wheels and tyres, It's standard. I did replace the clutch master cylinder about a year ago. I was on the road when the pedal went "thud" and stayed down. Limped home with no clutch. Luckily no trailer. With a new master cylinder and the system bled, all well till the pedal jamb.
If I need to get at the clutch, is it possible to drop the gearbox, or does the engine have to come out?
I have access to a workshop with a pit and jacking beam, compressor, and a wide selection of tools including a torque wrench. I also have the Haynes manual, but apart from torque values and specifications, I reckon it's not that useful.
Any clues? All input will be gratefully received.