Clicking noise

My series 11A has developed a clicking noise from the clutch pedal area, if you put a little pressure on the clutch pedal just the weight of your boot is enough it stops . Any ideas
Thanks
Chris

Dying release bearing?

Sounds like a big job

I don't know whether the IIA has a removable gearbox crossmember or not. If it does it can be done from underneath, couple or three dozen bolts and screws and manageable without a crane. If it doesn't then the engine has to come out, roughly the same number of fasteners, bit more fiddly disconnecting bits but you will need a crane. You'd be daft not to change the clutch while you've got it apart.

Bigger job when it breaks?

boguing said:

I don't know whether the IIA has a removable gearbox crossmember or not.

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Not as standard.

Turboman said:

Not as standard.

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When i took the gbox out, it was via the passenger door

CRS said:

My series 11A has developed a clicking noise from the clutch pedal area, if you put a little pressure on the clutch pedal just the weight of your boot is enough it stops . Any ideas
Thanks
Chris

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Do you mean a click when you push the pedal down, or a click that stops when you put the pedal down with the engine running?

kermit_rr said:

When i took the gbox out, it was via the passenger door

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Done that, but also taken the engine out to attend the clutches.

Turboman said:

Not as standard.

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Interesting, could Joe Public order one, or was it a military thing?

boguing said:

Interesting, could Joe Public order one, or was it a military thing?

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You can get them aftermarket, but it is quite a lot of work to fit.
You have to cut out the old one, and weld in plates with captive nuts on them.
If you have a galv chassis, it breaks the galv, obviously.
I reckon it is just as easy to change the clutch in the usual ways, if you do a good job, and fit a complete clutch with release bearing and fork, it should last for hundreds of thousands of miles.

Pretty sure you can just drop the box back enough to do the job? if you don't mind a struggle

Turboman said:

Do you mean a click when you push the pedal down, or a click that stops when you put the pedal down with the engine running?

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When i slightly push the clutch pedal down with the engine running it stops.

CRS said:

When i slightly push the clutch pedal down with the engine running it stops.

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In that case it is highly likely release bearing related, as above^^^^^^^^.

kermit_rr said:

Pretty sure you can just drop the box back enough to do the job? if you don't mind a struggle

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4 cylinder you can, 6 cylinder you can't. It isn't easy, you only have a couple of inches gap to work through.
Another way is to remove the floor, get underneath, remove the bottom plate of the transfer box, with the propshafts off, and unbolt the transfer box from the back of the gearbox, then unbolt the gearbox and lift the gearbox out through the floor, it is manageable without the transfer box on it.
But all in all, I think it is easier to lift the engine out with a crane or hoist, and change the clutch like that.

Remember the clutch release is slightly different than the later gearboxes, it's more enclosed in its own housing.

The 2a clutch release is probably the best type of release ever fitted by Land rover. A chunky bearing/release operated by a strong cross shaft.
The issue over time is wear in the linkage to slave which is to be found near drivers left foot. [ remove floor/tunnel to access] Link is just a tube that connects slave shaft to release shaft. Pins through holes locate both ends. Holes/pins wear.

Engine out every time for clutch, gearboxes are a dirty pita.

Iirc the gearbox housing has a plate on the top so you can see in, bit of work to get at though

boguing said:

Interesting, could Joe Public order one, or was it a military thing?

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You can use the existing crossmember. By making 4 tabs (think of the shape of a suspension shackle) and cutting the crossmember out at the point it joins the main chassis rail. Just a simple straight cut. You drill both sides of the cut and bolt in the tabs. You can then weld the tabs to the crossmember for rigidity leaving the rail end unboltable.
Quite a simple operation.
There is a utube vid of either a Merkin or a Ozzy doing it and it looks great.
Something I intend to do when I drop the gearbox to replace all the seals.

Eventually

I almost remembered how