Datatek
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Except on the P38 it negates the torque reduction called for on shifts so actually knackers the box.
chips - and their claimed increase in MPG
- Thread starter NikTheGeek
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Except on the P38 it negates the torque reduction called for on shifts so actually knackers the box.
NikTheGeek
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You can change down with the stick all the way to 1st in the move, the ECU will only effect the change at the appropriate speed, I use 3rd a lot and 2nd occasionally.
I have never managed to get mine down to 16 even with the caravan in the Pennines, either you have a very heavy foot or the car is sick, has a binding brake, lack of oil in the diff's or transfer box etc.
I re-set the computer on every fill and leave it showing the average consumption, I keep up with the traffic while at the same time always trying to get the consumption figure to improve. Sad I know
Brakes do squeal when reversing. Diffs ok, transferbox ok, gearbox ok. Right foot is heavy in the Micra, but as you can see by all my posts about mpg, I make sure it is light in the P38. I reset every fill too. EGR cleaned and blocked off. Intercooler cleaned. All filters done.
How do you check for binding brakes? Can't spin the wheel
The alloys don't get hot which would be a tell tale sign I suppose...Anyway, thats why I've been looking at maf etc. I need to get the maf and map read on a scope next to see their min and max readings and make sure they are in spec.
Nik
Datatek
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If your brakes squeal when reversing, that would be the first place I'd look.Brakes do squeal when reversing. Diffs ok, transferbox ok, gearbox ok. Right foot is heavy in the Micra, but as you can see by all my posts about mpg, I make sure it is light in the P38. I reset every fill too. EGR cleaned and blocked off. Intercooler cleaned. All filters done.
How do you check for binding brakes? Can't spin the wheel
Anyway, thats why I've been looking at maf etc. I need to get the maf and map read on a scope next to see their min and max readings and make sure they are in spec.
Nik
If you get both rear or both front of the ground, you can spin the wheels on that axle.
NikTheGeek
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Just come back from shopping (4 miles each way). Checked for heat. Rear brake disks cold to luke warm. Front brake disk burnt my bloody fingers they were that hot!
Surely there shouldn't be such a difference? And if there was, wouldn't the rear be hotter as most of the power goes aft?
Nik
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There is more braking effort applied on the front wheels than the back. Controlled by the PCRV in the system.
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Datatek
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I would not expect the brakes be that hot unless you have been anchoring up pretty hard over some distance on on a long descent with brakes applied, mine rarely feel warm at the wheel hub.
Power split is 50/50, equal power front and rear, however the front is what does most of the stopping.
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If it was just one side i may think sticking caliper. Both sides either two sticking calipers or you're the last of the late brakers.
Grit Valve
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Get an assistant get then them to press the foot brake on each release test each caliper for free play that it
Is free spinning wheel . As. Wammers. Has said the fronts will always be hotter than rear , you need to accept you have an old large car that isn't fuel efficient .
Is free spinning wheel . As. Wammers. Has said the fronts will always be hotter than rear , you need to accept you have an old large car that isn't fuel efficient .
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Or if the brakes are fine and after a journey of just 8 miles, the brakes are that hot. It may just indicate that his driving style is more in keeping with 17 MPG he is getting than the 25 MPG he is looking for.
Datatek
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16mpg is not normal (except for the V8) as you well know and the brakes should not be that hot after 4 miles. Hot brakes + poor mpg = binding brakes. Certainly they need looking at it from a safety point of view, brake fade due to overheated brakes can be frightening not to mention fatal.
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Mine is chipped and i can get it down to 16 MPG or less very easily gunning it around town. Normally it would be 18 to 20. 25 to 28 on a run. If there is nothing wrong with the brakes and they are that hot after eight miles it brings driving style into the equation.
Datatek
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Mine is no longer fitted with a power box and I've never seen it as low as 16mpg even in the UKMine is chipped and i can get it down to 16 MPG or less very easily gunning it around town. Normally it would be 18 to 20. 25 to 28 on a run. If there is nothing wrong with the brakes and they are that hot after eight miles it brings driving style into the equation.
As I said at the start lead foot disease is the usual cause of poor mpg.
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Mine is no longer fitted with a power box and I've never seen it as low as 16mpg even in the UK
As I said at the start lead foot disease is the usual cause of poor mpg.
Depends where you are in UK, around here up hill down dale traffic light GP i can easily see 16. Mine is chipped in the ECU and can pick it's feet up very quickly if needed. But normally driven 18 all day round town moving to 20+ if i throw a few ten or twelve mile steady speed runs in. On the motorway 25 to 28 all day. Coming to think that Nik and Mrs Nik have very heavy feet.
NikTheGeek
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I haven't honest!! I'm trying to be as gentle as poss.
Jacked up both front wheels and they turn ok. Can't spin them, but I guess thats due to the weight of them and the diff. But I can turn them without undue effort.
I'm going to Dorset in it in summer for a week. That'll sort it out and give me a proper motorway mpg.
I think I'm burning oil. I have no leaks and no spots on the drive when parked, but I checked on Monday and it was just above low on the dipstick. Checked today and it was just above low again. Flat level - checked with a spirit level on the block!
No black smoke though and no noticable smoke when driving, but grey smoke when it starts and for the first 30 seconds - then it clears.No coolant loss at all. The level of that's not moved since August!
Nik
Datatek
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It's beginning to sound like your engine is shaggedI haven't honest!! I'm trying to be as gentle as poss.
Jacked up both front wheels and they turn ok. Can't spin them, but I guess thats due to the weight of them and the diff. But I can turn them without undue effort.
I'm going to Dorset in it in summer for a week. That'll sort it out and give me a proper motorway mpg.
I think I'm burning oil. I have no leaks and no spots on the drive when parked, but I checked on Monday and it was just above low on the dipstick. Checked today and it was just above low again. Flat level - checked with a spirit level on the block!
No coolant loss at all. The level of that's not moved since August!
Nik
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When I did the fuelly site ,I filled up to the brim and as soon as the red light came on I filled up . The site said I had done 23.5 as in my Signature but from then on my trip says 21 mpg and never changes an average speed of 17 mph I don't reset my trip computer every time don't know if your supposed to but it doesn't match the more reliable fuelly Calculations so try the site for a much better average .
NikTheGeek
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It's beginning to sound like your engine is shagged
User error - hopefully. Just checked the owners manual and it says check cold. I checked hot both the last 2 times and immediately after turning the engine off. I'll check again tomorrow cold...
Nik
Grit Valve
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I haven't honest!! I'm trying to be as gentle as poss.
Jacked up both front wheels and they turn ok. Can't spin them, but I guess thats due to the weight of them and the diff. But I can turn them without undue effort.
I'm going to Dorset in it in summer for a week. That'll sort it out and give me a proper motorway mpg.
I think I'm burning oil. I have no leaks and no spots on the drive when parked, but I checked on Monday and it was just above low on the dipstick. Checked today and it was just above low again. Flat level - checked with a spirit level on the block!
No coolant loss at all. The level of that's not moved since August!
Nik
And with your check was it after a night allowing all oil to run down into the sump and stone cold, so what is burning a bit of oil.
I've had cars that from one service to another the dip level has never moved and others that go from top of dipstick to the lower .
Its no big deal within reason . I'm what you going to do a strip down and rebuild of rings and valve seals just because it burns a bit of oil na drive it enjoy it if its a guzzler get rid ....
NikTheGeek
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No
See above. Straight after a 12 mile run with the engine up to temp. I mean straight after. It was the first job I did. Its sat outside now with the bonnet up going cold. I'll check it later. Hopefully I should see it as slightly over full now!
Grit Valve
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No
I can't read and post at the same time as you
