Cheap car not so cheap

on Saturday I collected a 1.8 Freelander that I bought on eBay, it was a last minute bid so I didn't have chance to ask questions or look at it. I won it for £1000 and it looked in good condition with low mileage, 67k, the seller said everything worked ok. It was 150 miles away and a right bugger of a journey. In the flesh it looked as good as the pictures and all seemed well. I was aware of the head gasket problem and associated liner slippage and that was my biggest worry. However, it had the head gasket and cam belt done about 15000 miles ago. Within minutes of driving it away I found the a/c didn't work, no problem, I thought, might just need regassing. No such luck, I took it in to be regassed today and was told the compressor wasn't working, they said a new one is £700+ not including 3 hours labour to fit it. I also noticed that two of the tyres had a different tread pattern, and I've read enough on here to know that can damage the vcu. Sure enough, on full lock it feels like the brakes are on in forward and reverse, Ive not done the one wheel up test yet. I have had four new tyres fitted today and popped in to my local 4x4 specialist to ask for advice. He reckoned a new vcu is going to be about £1000 fitted. He also said that because the car hadn't been used much for a while the vcu might have gone stiff but could loosen up after some use. What do you reckon? I'm not spending another grand on it so if the vcu is kaput what will it be like to drive with the prop removed? Apart from the vcu and air con, I'm quite happy with it. Despite its small engine it is quite nippy and relatively economical, it averaged 35mpg driving it the 150 miles back home.

Recon VCU from Bell Eng is in the region of £200 iirc

2 wheel drive for the time being then

Thanks bb, is it much of a job for a diy mechanic?

Col

Colthebrummie said:

Thanks bb, is it much of a job for a diy mechanic?

Col

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Dunno, never tried, don't think so but someone will be along to give you the ins and outs no doubt

mine had the prop off for 6 years now ,no problem in 2wheel drive

Prop removal is plan B. Which prop is removed, is it the rear one?

Col

Colthebrummie said:

Prop removal is plan B. Which prop is removed, is it the rear one?

Col

Click to expand...

Both props and the VCU.

£700 for a compressor? 3hrs to fit it?
£1000 to supply and fit a VCU?

Job 1: Pull VCU and props
Job 2: Find a decent garage

https://www.gentlemenofsalvage.co.u...on-compressor-447220-4803?variant=40356060682

Taking off and refitting a recon VCU is a straightforward job. Bell Engineering for the VCU, they have a good reputation on here.

You'll just need a few axel stands or similar to take the weight of the prop as you remove it, refit it, so it can removed/replaced, without extending the universal joints too much.

If it's suspect, removed both ends (from IRD at the front, and diff at the rear) and run 2WD until funds permit getting a replacement VCU, which is about £250 I think with new bearings etc from Bell.

There are some good threads on here that show step by step how it is done.

guineafowl21 said:

£700 for a compressor? 3hrs to fit it?
£1000 to supply and fit a VCU?

Job 1: Pull VCU and props
Job 2: Find a decent garage

https://www.gentlemenofsalvage.co.u...on-compressor-447220-4803?variant=40356060682

Click to expand...

Absolutely. A genuine LR VCU from LR is well under a £1000.
A quality recon can be had for around £250 complete with new bearings.
Pop over to Bell and they'll fit it for you too.

A stiff VCU will only get stiffer, as the fluid has been aged by incorrect tyres.

The AC compressor is available from the above breakers.

Oh and find a decent garage.

Yes, a new VCU is under £400 to buy! If you are handy with tools it's fairly straight forward to replace it yourself and the support bearings too.

VCU is always a bit stiff on lock - forwards or backwards. Mine is and I fitted a new one. Do the one wheel up test [OWUT] - see youtube or on here on how to do it.

A/C that replacement cost os a bit too much - ditto find another workshop/garage.

Excuse me butting in, but I am planning to remove my VCU and obtain a replacement.
When I have it off and it is standing on jacks, how is it possible to move it from under the car and relocate to a safe place without causing any damage?
I understand the complete package is heavy.

dog-man said:

Excuse me butting in, but I am planning to remove my VCU and obtain a replacement.
When I have it off and it is standing on jacks, how is it possible to move it from under the car and relocate to a safe place without causing any damage?
I understand the complete package is heavy.

Click to expand...

It's not that heavy, I've removed and fitted loads without any problems. Just have an old crate or similar to drop the vcu onto when you unbolt it.
BTW your supposed to use torx sockets for the bolts at either end of the prop shaft but mine are 1/2" and don't fit so I just use 1/4" hex sockets and haven't had a problem.

dog-man said:

Excuse me butting in, but I am planning to remove my VCU and obtain a replacement.
When I have it off and it is standing on jacks, how is it possible to move it from under the car and relocate to a safe place without causing any damage?
I understand the complete package is heavy.

Click to expand...

I usually undo the props, then the VCU bolts (which are nice and shallow so they round off), leaving two nearly undone. Then lift the VCU up with one hand and undo the remaining bolts with the other. I can then lower the whole lot onto a piece of cardboard and slide it out easily from under the car.

I will say this, harsh thought it may sound, as I think it's good advice: Don't get a bargain car on ebay, then take it to a garage for the work to be done. It will end up not being a bargain car at all. If you're not handy and don't have basic tools, you're better off paying a bit more for a used car from a dealer, with warranty.

That said, buying a banger is a good way to learn DIY mechanics, and you'll gradually kit yourself up with tools that will pay for themselves very quickly. Skills too. We'll be here to help when you need it.

Right, Bell engineering here I come. I should say that after having the new tyres fitted, it doesn't seem as stiff on full lock but that might be my imagination. I was shocked when I was quoted over £700 plus labour for a replacement ac compressor. The garage in question have a good reputation around here. The 3 hours labour was what Landrover state for the job to be done. No wonder their dealers premises are so posh.

Col

You have to remember the 1.8K doesn't have as much Umph as the diesels to push the 4 wheel drive around. When I use my sister's K it always feels tight on lock compared to my TD4.
Do the one wheel up before spending any money.
Mike

Skinny Mike said:

You have to remember the 1.8K doesn't have as much Umph as the diesels to push the 4 wheel drive around. When I use my sister's K it always feels tight on lock compared to my TD4.
Do the one wheel up before spending any money.
Mike

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Thanks Mike, I intend to do the test today if it stops raining, fingers crossed.

Col

There's a huge difference between them. I'm so bad in the K series it's laughable, I stall it constantly. But i'm just lazy, having the TD4 auto, it drives itself.
But I'll also recommend Bell engineering, never a bad word about them, and they really know their stuff.
Mike

done same got a "bad cheap one" paid £820 for it of ebay x reg 108000 miles train journey to collect broke down on way home thank god for breakdown recovery any way turbo coolant pipe I think is what it was £275 later now in for repair again 3 amigos what is that going to cost, then shall I keep or "pass it on" one lesson learned do not get of ebay unless viewed and road tested first I say any way good luck with yours