Chassis Treatment

A mate wants to treat his chassis, without taking body off, its not to bad no holes just surface rust but will be a pain to get in to all the nooks and crannys .

Anyone used this before ? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265703655290?hash=item3ddd2c077a:g:fUYAAOSwPcVVkTBk ?

Whats best to put on for final coat ?

Hi

heard about that stuff a littler while ago, ref http://www.landroverblogger.com/our-rust-converter-stops-your-land-rover-rusting-away

indeed takes a good while cleaning the chassis from dirt and any loose paint, did get some lances for my karcher to get dirt etc out from inside the chassis , then a wire wheel for removing loose paint and allowing a key for the paint, personally used dinotrol over painting it on with a brush as could then spray it inside the chassis , underbody etc

after jet washing , wire wheel , I steam cleaned it and then allowed it to dry for several days

alas with a brush simply can’t get into many of the places over injecting it

I have tried a few things over the years, and I reckon one guy who posted years ago got it right, oil and diesel mixed and sprayed on a couple of times a year, guaranteed to get into all the nooks and crannies, and easy to clean off if needed.

lynall said:

I have tried a few things over the years, and I reckon one guy who posted years ago got it right, oil and diesel mixed and sprayed on a couple of times a year, guaranteed to get into all the nooks and crannies, and easy to clean off if needed.

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also heard about mixing acetone and ATF as a rust remover , once heard of someone using rubberised paint and then wondered why his chassis rusted 10 x times quicker

Have also seen a few powdercoat there chassis , don’t know how effective it is , also heard that where many would use red diesel mixed with engine oil

Taking a rust converter and adding the word chassis means nothing.

I am currently doing this with mine and am using dinitrol. This claims to have rust converters and inhibitors in the mix. Rather than needing a separate step in the processes. Similar to above I have pressure washed and steam cleaned. Let it dry and they spray on. I am currently struggling with getting it into the chassis but that is my fault not the product!

Yes, I blow that stuff in followed with Waxoyl - heated up, 10% to 20% white spirit injected into box and cavity through a compressor. Externally, its worth descaling and painting.

I've had a bad experience with waxoil. It dries hard and curls up into lumps, providing no protection. Had to rebuild the rear crossmember as a result. Top it up annually if you are sticking with it.

Engine oil and diesel. My 1990 Ninety has had only had a few small patches despite being a working farm truck living by the sea.
I am probably the guy Lynall mentions in post above.
Garden fence paint sprayer will do the job if no air line.

A fitter I once worked with used old Engine oil and Diesel on the company Transits, with good results. I was going to use this on my Series 2 but remembered the mess !
My first treatment was Waxoyl mixed 30% cheap engine oil and 20% White spirit. I drilled holes using a step drill between the original holes.
Once warmed this sprayed quite well with the Waxoyl spray attachment, slow push forward, slow pull back. OO-er Missus
Two years on I still hadn't done the outside so got out and got under, a very brief and very messy spell at cleaning followed.
Deciding this was too much like hard work I paid for a professional Rustproofing at £600. Day 1, blast clean inside and out. Day 2, full dry inside and out. Day 3, Full waxoyl 'mix'.
I am happy with the results so far, but if the tub had been off I would have preferred to do my self.

My own recent experience with waxoyl leaves a lot to be desired.. actually a hell of a lot . Such a contrast to how it used to be . I’m rather annoyed about the state of the chassis on SWMBO’S D1 after copious waxoyling, …

Lanolin based products seem to get good reviews, but I have yet to use them… SWMBO’s D1 chassis is now too far gone, so it’ll get a new galv one from Maer over the summer.. and no more waxoyl for me…

so tempted with the old oil idea, but old oil is acidic, so it might be worth the expense of new oil… it’s not like it’s gonna take ten gallons to do the job…

tottot said:

Engine oil and diesel. My 1990 Ninety has had only had a few small patches despite being a working farm truck living by the sea.
I am probably the guy Lynall mentions in post above.
Garden fence paint sprayer will do the job if no air line.

Click to expand...

Yes I am sure it was you I was thinking of, I am terrible with names, can remember mechanical knowledge crap from years ago, yet not someones name or a truck I worked on only yesterday!

I like bilt hambler stuff. Appears to resist being washed off.

+1 for oil and diesel mix I do mine twice a year wi a garden sprayer, works a treat. Esp on west of Scotland by the sea

Some use chain oil....(it's very thick and cheap) and derv mixture