Chassis repair

Hi all you knowledgable chaps and girls
I am in a quondery do I galvernize my chassis that I have done a lot of repairs to or do I just put loads of paint on it. The cost to galvernize it is around £200, I have been told by a company that has done a lot in the past. It is good value but a lot of money at my age 67. Now the thing I am most concerned about is will my welding stand up to all the acids and heat as I have heard that they can bend and twist, am I going over the top or is it best to be aware. Has any pie put there had this I would be grateful of some other opinions
Thanks Terry

I thought hot galv dipping only affected thinner panels? A mate of mine dipped a defender front bulkhead and we didn't notice any distortion on that when fitting...

as a supplement to this question.. i'm contemplating what to do with the suffix A chassis.

The question is, in the galvanising process with corrosion inside the box section continue under the galvanise layer. in other words, unless the chassis is stripped from all corrosion inside and out (impossible inside) is it moot in other words would it better to dinitrol inside and protect the outside ?

That is my thought,having said that I under stand from a conversation I had with the chap from the galv place on the phone that they acid dip it before it is dipped in the tank to galvernize it. I thought that this may get rid of most of the internal rust but not having a very good understanding of thet sort of thing I would be glad of any advice
With thanks
Terry

In your shoes I would thoroughly jet wash the internals of the Chassis, let it drain for 30mins to an hour, then spray fertan into the insides with the cavity lance (£10 from ebay) then leave it 24h and do it again. Following the fertan instructions to the letter, but make sure that you wash out all the excess the next day.

That should mean that when it comes to acid dipping it, there will be almost no rust to remove, and any traces of fertan should have been washed out, then the galv should have a near perfect surface to stick to.

Failing that and/or if you don't galvanize it, I'd do the same but then spray in Bilt hamber dynax s-50 in the chassis & dynax UB on the exposed undersides.

Unless you can get prior agreement modern galv is a quick, relatively long lasting cheap coating.

They will usually fast dip the acid, the galv, and not take the time required to do a proper job. So a new chassis this is mostly fine. But on an older chassis, or thinned metal you can end up with acid still within the chassis corrosion when it is dipped for galving.

And when it is galved if they rushed the first bit then the next issue is that your thinned chassis won't be pre heated, and will be dunked, stressing your welds as you say.

This is a worst case, and you will probably be fine, but lots of modern galv places now work on throughput, not attention to detail, and are usually fully void of any liability.

It's why I won't galv bulkheads I have spent weeks rebuilding. I coat them.

If you do galv go on reputation and do your homework.