Chasing metallic grinding noise and my sanity

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Jonesy3112

New Member
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7
Hi guys,

Need your advice again. I’m still chasing this metallic grinding noise when particularly when I can my foot off the accelerator quickly. I have changed most of the drivetrain because of it 😅 but it’s still there! We initially dismissed the prop but now we aren’t so sure if it’s that (potentially) or the front differential. I’ve taken a video of the front prop and wondered if that is normal movement and if that sound is normal.



Thanks in advance guys 😊
 
You do not say which model you have nor the milage it has done. The amount of movement is quite normal for a truck that has been around a while. Noise much the same.
A more important check is to grab the prop and try to move side to side, up and down feeling for movement in the bearings in diff and transfer output. Also check those prop UJ's that they move easy in all axis.
 
tottot said:
You do not say which model you have nor the milage it has done. The amount of movement is quite normal for a truck that has been around a while. Noise much the same.
A more important check is to grab the prop and try to move side to side, up and down feeling for movement in the bearings in diff and transfer output. Also check those prop UJ's that they move easy in all axis.
Click to expand...

Sorry…… so it’s a td5 90 it’s got 110000 miles on it. It’s got a 2 inch lift and has been remapped as well. It did originally have some larger tyres (275/70/r18) on but I have since put them back down to 265/75 r16
 
Those lifts can be mean a hard life for UJ's and other drive components.
It pays to be easy on the initial power up when starting off and powering down over time.
Wear in the center diff [inside housing next to front prop] can make much of the clatter you hear flipping your prop back and fore.
 
Sounds like the rear output shaft and the flange that joins the propshaft to the lt230. There are splines that join the shaft to the flange that can/will fail over time. Ashcroft makes a much stronger shaft. Most likely if you put it in difflock the front wont budge.

The only way to do this test is, remove the propshaft and determine where the failure is, in the transfer case or diff. Prop looks fine. Dont need to replace the transfer case for this, shaft is about 120 pounds. It is a job but if you plan to do your clutch soon wait till then, if your doing road driving you should be able to hold out, offroad renew asap
 
Sorry just realized it is the front, but the test still stands, it doesn't happen in the rear? strange it is the front unless you are always driving in difflock. You grinding may be in the rear as this would make more sense.

Did you do anything that would damage the front end, It is hard to believe the front since driving at excessive speeds in difflock is basically not possible and driving at low speeds would mean something had to fail while driving at a low speed therefore something you would remember
 
LG199714 said:
Sorry just realized it is the front, but the test still stands, it doesn't happen in the rear? strange it is the front unless you are always driving in difflock. You grinding may be in the rear as this would make more sense.

Did you do anything that would damage the front end, It is hard to believe the front since driving at excessive speeds in difflock is basically not possible and driving at low speeds would mean something had to fail while driving at a low speed therefore something you would remember
Click to expand...
It definitely sounds like it’s coming from the front underneath footwells maybe. I definitely haven’t done anything to the front and it’s definitely not in diff lock. The transfer box has been replaced with an Ashcroft one only in the last couple of weeks
 
New transfer box then. It is a big help if we are given as much detail as possible about issues at the start.
I would check tranferbox has oil in it, you never know.
 
Last edited:
The transfer box + gbox sits right under the front passenger seat, could be either or. I just checked their website and as presumed their transfer case comes with no oil. You mentioned last week it was installed but then said to my question a couple of weeks ago. As mentioned, give the exact sequence of events from installation till now including oil used. Again, I would wipe out front end transfer case or diff as this could only fail if in difflock. For that matter might as well include and gearbox changes and oil used......

check the play with difflock engaged front and rear and let us know if there is play in the front end and rear. I bet not but this is a start. LT230 are pretty tough (possibly overengineered) but again usually it is the rear output shaft and flange that fails as they are always engaged, and the front end is for low speed + poor traction so basically very tough to wear and tear unless you're in some quicksand and need to gun it but a defender will never get you in this situation.

My assumption is something is slacking and with throttle aligns itself back up, and when you release it slacks again. Hmmmmm.
Could be an oil issue. Tough one. Define or give an example of this "grinding" noise? I can't see the lt230 failing that new especially from ashcroft unless the driver abused it incredibly. I am talking about a full burnout, ABS on, TC on, 4,000rpm, the whole nine yards.

anyways, try the difflock test before removing anything
tottot said:
New transfer box then. It is a big help is we are given as much detail as possible about issues at the start.
I would check tranferbox has oil in it, you never know.
Click to expand...
 
LG199714 said:
The transfer box + gbox sits right under the front passenger seat, could be either or. I just checked their website and as presumed their transfer case comes with no oil. You mentioned last week it was installed but then said to my question a couple of weeks ago. As mentioned, give the exact sequence of events from installation till now including oil used. Again, I would wipe out front end transfer case or diff as this could only fail if in difflock. For that matter might as well include and gearbox changes and oil used......

check the play with difflock engaged front and rear and let us know if there is play in the front end and rear. I bet not but this is a start. LT230 are pretty tough (possibly overengineered) but again usually it is the rear output shaft and flange that fails as they are always engaged, and the front end is for low speed + poor traction so basically very tough to wear and tear unless you're in some quicksand and need to gun it but a defender will never get you in this situation.

My assumption is something is slacking and with throttle aligns itself back up, and when you release it slacks again. Hmmmmm.
Could be an oil issue. Tough one. Define or give an example of this "grinding" noise? I can't see the lt230 failing that new especially from ashcroft unless the driver abused it incredibly. I am talking about a full burnout, ABS on, TC on, 4,000rpm, the whole nine yards.

anyways, try the difflock test before removing anything
Click to expand...
You are aware that BOTH the front and rear parts of the drivetrain are always engaged as its permanent 4wd aren't you? Your wording seems to me to indicate that you think that it's selectable 4/2wd and that only the rear is driven all the time?
 
Grebby said:
You are aware that BOTH the front and rear parts of the drivetrain are always engaged as its permanent 4wd aren't you? Your wording seems to me to indicate that you think that it's selectable 4/2wd and that only the rear is driven all the time?
Click to expand...
yes my wording sounds off lol yes they lock the front and rear output shaft together
 
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