Charging problem. Help please.

Would I be right in saying that if the charge light is not on and the belt is turning the alternator but the battery is not charging, that it is a battery problem? Don't want to go out and buy a new battery if it could be something else.
Cheers.

if yer battery is the type with nremoveable caps into the cells inside open them and check if theres any fluid in there

if there isnt id go to halfrauds and get some battery top up water and top up the cells then charge the bugger for atleast 12 hours on a trickle charge then try the battery back on the vehicle

if this doesnt work youve only lost £4 in battery water but also know for deffinate its a knackered battery

could also be a rare phenominum of the charge warning light bulb being fooked on the dash and the alternator being fooked

another test to do would be get a volt meter across the battery while the vehicle is running if it reads anything below 13.5 v the alternator is knackered if it reads 13.5v up to 14.5v the alternator is fine and the battery is dead

johnny curt 1 said:

another test to do would be get a volt meter across the battery while the vehicle is running if it reads anything below 13.5 v the alternator is knackered if it reads 13.5v up to 14.5v the alternator is fine and the battery is dead

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would try this un first. ^^
then check cabling between alternator and battery, ensuring socket on loom that plugs into alternator is good. check all female spade crimps within plug as there known to open up, requiring nipping with a pair of pliers.
with ignition on and plug removed, short the small female spade terminal to earth, this should bring the charge light on. DONT short the larger terminals at all!

a duff battery will still accept charge (unless its really knackered), its how long it will hold the charge.
how do you know it isnt charging? when you say the charge light isnt on, is this even when when the ignitions on but engine not running?
check recovery of battery by taking voltage reading, then turn headlights on and watch voltage fall. wait 5 or 10 mins then turn lights off. voltage shouls creep back to initial reading within a few mins. any longer and your looking at a degraded battery not holding charge. longer it takes, worse it is.

I had that. Changed the battery. £85. Still died about a week after with little running.
Changes the alternator £95 and since them no problems whatsoever.
In hindsight I think the battery was okay and the alternator was the problem but I have the peace of mind that both are good and confidence that the car will start.

Thank you all, bit late now but will check all your ideas in the morning. thanks again.

Can be the case that if the lamp blows, the alternator doesn;t charge the battery.

Just having problems with mine too.
Bulb connector had come off, so battery discharged.

Reconnected and alternator is giving 14.5V and seems to be charging, blooming red charge light stuck on now though!!

Mark

hang on a minute is the battery in the engine bay next to the drivers side wing right where the bonnet leg thingy comes down

just make sure the leg isnt making contact with the battery terminals as ive had this problem before it baffled god knows how many mechanics and auto electricians (evry morning without fail the battery would be dead even a brand new one )

Should the charge light be on with just the ignition?

androver said:

Should the charge light be on with just the ignition?

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yes

ok got to go to bed now, but the red charge light has not come on with the ignition.
Will catch up tomorrow but thanks to all the replies.

propably light died long ago, and now the alt

Not gone to bed! I drive my landy every day as it is my only vehicle, why can't I remember if the red charge light comes on as well as the green oil pressure light? Are you sure the red light is on with just the ignition?

The red light has been working saw it earlier, honest.

yes it is, i check it every time i start her, as i do have two batteries connected (sometimes three) without anything, just parallel, so i have to make sure the alt is working. i have an ammeter, too, tho.
If you turn the key to first position red and green must me lit! Sure!

one more tip: dont buy a new alt, let someone repair it for a beer token and the price for a new diode or what it needs. I'd offer to do it but i doubt you're anywhere near me some time soon, are you?-)

does the red light go on above 1500rpm?

philvy said:

does the red light go on above 1500rpm?

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shouldnt do!

No not cecked the rev thing and I doubt i will be passing your area, but will try one day.

Sorry for the spelling, I dropped a beer on the keyboard so it is a bit sticky!

androver said:

Sorry for the spelling, I dropped a beer on the keyboard so it is a bit sticky!

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sticky beer is never good

the repair of the alt is very well explained in the repair manual. You can actually try it yourself, you just need a new regulator propably. (propably RTC3966 ALTERNATOR REGULATOR | shop | www.lrseries.com | L. R. Series)

light should come on with ignition as said but even if it does and goes out with engine running it doesn't always mean the alts ok. If it has an internal short the light can go out without charging the battery......just to confuse matters