Charging issues

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northernbobber

Active Member
Posts
165
Location
Finland
I replaced my alternator some time ago due to bad charging. The new alternator gives 14.5 measured directly from alternator. At the battery end I was still only getting low 12s and high 11s. So I replaced the battery yesterday after not being able to start thinking the battery is not receiving anymore. With new battery I still get only 13.3 maximum with lights on, 13.5 with lights off and that is at idle, revving will not change much, fluctuating between 12.5 and 13.3. Is that normal values?
 
I had something similar, I took the cable from the alternator to the fusebox off and ran over the alternator end connection with a grinder (other things may be more suitable o_O) and that solved it, 14.1-14.7v now depending on how it’s charging
 
Non difference really. Still at the alt end 14.4V and at the battery end around 12.?-13.4. When i turn off the car i have solid 12.7. when i had the ctek charger on for a while nanocom would show 14.2 for a little while but then dropped to the above mentioned values again.
 
northernbobber said:
Non difference really. Still at the alt end 14.4V and at the battery end around 12.?-13.4. When i turn off the car i have solid 12.7. when i had the ctek charger on for a while nanocom would show 14.2 for a little while but then dropped to the above mentioned values again.
Click to expand...

It’s a connection or ****ty the wire somewhere
 
This morning plugged in nanocom again and after cold start charging went up to 14.1-14.2. Slowly then coming down from there as battery charges i suppose...
 
northernbobber said:
Yeah,
Click to expand...
Disco or Defender?

I can only speak for the Disco, but the thick wire from the alternator goes to "fuse" FL1 in the fuse box. The voltage at FL1 should be the same, give or take a gnats ... as at the alternator. Check both ends of FL1. If not the same, as you can't "loose" 2 or 3 volts in a piece of wire, either the wire is broken or its connectors are not connecting. Wires can break internally, but a break would normally be where they enter the connector at either end.

So, with the engine running, you should be able to measure approx 14.5V at the alternator, the same at both ends of FL1, and from there to the battery positive. If you don't, this is where the break is. I would keep the meter negative/ground connection connected to the battery while doing all these measurements, and take great care not to short anything to ground, there's a lot of current available in the battery!

New or old battery will make no difference.

That's if it is a Disco.........
 
Its a defender 2002 hcpu. But i guess same applies. Seems to be charging, i have 12.7 everytine i dhut off or in the morning. Hits 14+ in the beginning of ride and tge drops to 12.9-13.2. I will follow up and measure some more.
 
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