Disco 4 (LR4) Changing Timing Belt but what else.

Hi, I'm planning on replacing the belts on my D4 3.0L sdv6, it is 7yrs old but has done nothing like the 112,000 miles; 68,623 at last MOT Feb 21. It is well maintained / serviced, always runs on Shell V Power.
I have researched a fair bit on the job, articles & video. I was thinking of replacing both front belts, both tensioners & the idlers; but, I have read threads suggesting that some of that would be a waste of money, just stick to the main drive belt & replace both tensioners.
Given the reasonably low milage etc etc I would really appreciate any opinions.
Regards Mick

If you change 1 you change them all, the fuel pump belt should all so be done at the same time be carefully on the D4 its timed unlike the D3

biketeacherdave said:

If you change 1 you change them all, the fuel pump belt should all so be done at the same time be carefully on the D4 its timed unlike the D3

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Thanks for that, initially I was thinking that would be the sure way to guarantee peace of mind.
But looking at the fuel belt location ..............how the hell can that be worked on, surely it is "hidden" and you must be working blind ???

Hi see attached link to an article on how to do the job


https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/land-rover/defender/100702/how-to-change-a-fuel-pump

It's doable, yes your working blind

Thanks very much for the images Frostythor, its one of those things if good access is available, its straight forward.
The D4 is timed so I'm assuming (hate that word) there are similar timing holes & locking pins on the camshaft pulley, is it wise to do while the flywheel is locked or is it a different set-up.
Dave, I agree, doable, but tricky. In a previous life I spent many hours underwater often in pitch blackness doing all sorts of tasks (tools hanging on your wrists! just incase) stripping & re-building valves, bearings worm gear & all sorts of stuff. Good photos's are perfect guides, and stick in your minds eye.
This site is just so helpful, no B-S just a yes or don't be daft.
Thanks for your input, and regards. Mick

I know just what you mean, Thats why, my logo is a diving helmet, ex commercial diver, and superintendent

Remove all the battery cover and other bits to give good access to the fuel pump belt, my mate can do it in 20 mins start to finish. You will need locking tools for the pump as well as the cams on the front. Don't attempt it with out them

frostythor said:

I know just what you mean, Thats why, my logo is a diving helmet, ex commercial diver, and superintendent

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I never thought about the helmet, but ditto started in 77 & retired in 2014, happy days (most of em)

biketeacherdave said:

Remove all the battery cover and other bits to give good access to the fuel pump belt, my mate can do it in 20 mins start to finish. You will need locking tools for the pump as well as the cams on the front. Don't attempt it with out them

Click to expand...

One thing I was thinking about, While doing the front belt & the camshaft pins plus the flywheel are locked in the timing position; could that mean the HPFP should by default also be in the timed position so allowing the belt change to go ahead, given that the camshafts are linked by the chain connections ??