Changing suspension. half a job Harry

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stretchie_

stretchie_

Active Member
Posts
476
Location
Gloucester
Quick question. I STILL haven't got around to fitting the new disks and pads and suspension on my 300tdi.

Bearing in mind that the suspension is +1", would it be a problem if I did the rear, then left it for a while until I did the fronts???

Also, I still have my anti roll bars on and not planning to remove them anytime. The springs are +1" but the dampers +2", britpart say they are the same ones used in +1" or +2" kit, it's the spring that sets the height and the damper just controls how quickly it returns once stretched/compressed.

With this in mind do you think I'd have a problem with the springs dislocating? Would I need dislocation/relocation* cones? Front / Rear / both / neither - stop being a tool you may go off road but you don't do bonkers things



* depending where you buy them from, different name same thing
 
i put 25mm over size springs on the back of mine but not the front, reason is simply i ran out of time and parts on the weekend when i did it. need to do the front shock towers etc...

Dislocation..? have you ever had a spring dislocate? i put dissy cones on mine while i did the springs, but to be honest you have to be going hard out on the axle twisters before a spring pops out properly.

You can save a bit of money by using jubilee clips loosely around the top of the springs, this will allow them to come off the top turret by 10mm or so but not enough to breatch the little lip at the front so they dont relocate correctly
 
I think you should fit the dislocation cones.. then you can play like this... :)

3wheel.jpg


EDIT: Batenberg, my springs dislocate everytime I go past this place above in the pic...
 
like i say, you have to be hard out on axle twisters to dislocate springs... easy enough to get back in though, just dont use your hands!
 
battenberg said:
Dislocation..? have you ever had a spring dislocate?
Nope, I'll have a go at the stuff like JP below but still have my anti roll bars on as it's still a road car too and can't be bothered with taking off and putting back on so they are staying on. I presume they will stop the wheel dropping too far see my pic immediatly below

DSC00607.jpg



See, this is my wheel at full extension on the normal springs, no where near as much aticulation as JP's hulk

[JP];800857 said:
I think you should fit the dislocation cones.. then you can play like this... :)

3wheel.jpg


Tart

:cool:

Does this mean, when I've finished I can call mine Hulk Jnr??
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
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Click to expand...
 
When mine was on standard suspension all round but with 31" tyres it didn't dislocate ever ..

Photo-0001.jpg


Photo-0003.jpg
 
Dampers/shock absorbers are the ultimate limit of travel (espcially on the rear). Therefore if you have shocks with more travel than the springs you will get the springs to dislocate.

If you do need relocation cones then you are only likely to need them on the rear.

If you really do only have the time to do one axle and then the other, I would do the rear first. However, I would recommend taking a long weekend and doing it all at the same time. In workshop conditions I would expect it to only take a day anyway.
 
Hi, just did a shock and spring change on my 300TDi, All in it took me roughly 12 hours, (if I had been doing it for someone elese I would have charged for 12.5) I was a mechanic so have a good selection of tools but didnt go near my compressed air or grinder once. So job was done with hand tools, duck oil, and bloody determination, oh and some blood loss (landys lol) So this time includes shifting all them stuborn nuts. Point I will say is I ordered a replacment of every nut and bolt I would touch, ( a few snapped which i nice coz it's a quick way of getting them undone, I didnt pick up my grinder) a couple of warning I will give, I ordered my new nuts and bolts from "Landrover parts shop" and the nuts I ordered for my new turret rings ( both turrets snapped one stud whilst being undone) werent even colse to the right size, there are a UNF size I think 3/8 had to get them from a local nut and bolt specialist. The other problem I had was one of my rear shock mounts (upper) sheared when I undid the retaing nut, This meant a quick drive to the stealer to get a prompt replacment £32 inc vat roughly. The other side i was very carefull with, cleaned the thread carefully before removing and loosened and retightened back and forth whilst soaking in duck oil till I had worked it off the thread, Had new nuts waiting for reassembly. I havent included getting the extra bits in the 12 hours to do the job but it does include fitting the shock hanger. Hope this helps you plan the job, like I said be real carfull with the shock hanger nuts and order a replacment for every nut and bolt you will touch and new turret rings, you will thank yourself when you do it, oh and coat the new ones in copper slip as it will be easier if you ever go back there again.
 
Ha, just spent a few hours on it. And acheived this

Rear drivers wheel off
Hub and brake disk off
Caliper off (the biggest bastard of all was these two mounting bolts, I'm gonna be sore in the morning)
And that's IT!!

Couldn't seperate the hub and brake disk.. But at least now I know what to expect when I start the next one (after I have finished this one)
 
stretchie_ said:
Couldn't seperate the hub and brake disk.. But at least now I know what to expect when I start the next one (after I have finished this one)
Click to expand...

The easiest way to do this is to bolt the hub (once off the axle) back onto the wheel, with the wheel nuts, then put the wheel on the floor, disc bolt facing up.

you can then kneel on the wheel while you grab your bigger hammer!
 
Right, I need help. Doing my bonce in now.

STILL not done the suspension swap.

On the rear, I can get the bolts undone on the damper, but the bolts under where the spring is just turn, someone told me the nuts underneath should be captive and welded in place.

I can't get a grinder in there to cut them off cos there is not enough room to get to either of them.

In the pack I have springs and dampers for front and rear, polybushes for all.

What do I need, was thinking of putting some cones under the rear springs, the springs themselves are +1" the dampers are +2" (got hold of manufacturer and they said this is correct) shouldn't have a problem as the anti roll bars are staying on but would prefer to have them on just incase.

I need a proper, "This is what you do you thik FOOK" guide
 
So just keep going with the spanners to snap em off, I have bolts to replace them.

Just worried about cocking stuff up. It' looks straight forward but then so did the disks and pads...

It LOOKS like it's just the two bolts at top and bottom of the damper to remove that (and snapping it of course) put in new damper and fasten up
And for the spring just the two bolts at the bottom?? Remove, new spring in, fasten back up
 
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