Changing Discs and pads

Harold 4x4 · Oct 31, 2007

I'm debating on taking on the fitting of new discs, pads and caliper overhaul and wonder if anyone has any helpful advice? I only have a Haynes and an electronic manual as a guide.

Quote from manual - "Check total disc run out, this must not exceed
0,15 mm. If necessary reposition disc."

I'm not sure what this means, can anyone help please?

Pikey · Oct 31, 2007

runout is also known as a warped disc basically it's saying check to see if the discs are warped. if their new ones going on it's not gonna be a problem

try this link it merkin but the procedures the same. MAVROMATIC - March 2007 Archives

Harold 4x4 · Nov 1, 2007

Great link -thanks for the info!

Unfortunately I have a Disco 1 and it involves dismantling the hub assembly to get to the disc(s) - maybe I'll take it to the garage . With all the calipers needing an overhaul maybe it's too big a job for me this time around.

TheMunster · Nov 1, 2007

Harold 4x4 said:
Great link -thanks for the info!

Unfortunately I have a Disco 1 and it involves dismantling the hub assembly to get to the disc(s) - maybe I'll take it to the garage . With all the calipers needing an overhaul maybe it's too big a job for me this time around.

True it is a bit of a job but to have both front hubs removed, then calipers re-done as well as new hub bearings etc a garage will probably charge you a fortune.

Its not difficult, just time consuming and slow.

Disco Blue · Nov 1, 2007

Don't be put off by the amount of work involved. It's a straight forward 'nuts and bolts' job. Do the wheel bearings at the same time, only special tool needed is a 52mm box spanner/socket to remove/replace wheel bearing retaining nut. You only have to drain the rear axle, not the front. Bolts holding discs to hub will be tight, put hub on loose wheel and tighten wheel nuts, kneel/sit on tyre and undo the disc holding bolts, better than gripping in vice.

iannotts · Nov 1, 2007

Disco Blue said:
Don't be put off by the amount of work involved. It's a straight forward 'nuts and bolts' job. Do the wheel bearings at the same time, only special tool needed is a 52mm box spanner/socket to remove/replace wheel bearing retaining nut. You only have to drain the rear axle, not the front. Bolts holding discs to hub will be tight, put hub on loose wheel and tighten wheel nuts, kneel/sit on tyre and undo the disc holding bolts, better than gripping in vice.

Why drain the rear if you jack it up high enough very little will come out. Just top up the axle after finishing both sides. Well this is what I did anyway

. Always look for the easyer way

Sirus · Nov 1, 2007

iannotts said:
Why drain the rear if you jack it up high enough very little will come out. Just top up the axle after finishing both sides. Well this is what I did anyway . Always look for the easyer way

Cause yur can change the ****ty oil thas in there

iannotts · Nov 1, 2007

Had not long changed my oil

But I agree if it had not been changed for years or EVER

Harold 4x4 · Nov 1, 2007

Thanks for all the info!
I agree it's a costly job, but I need the Disco for a trip back to the UK and I don't need any more 'problems' while I'm trying to do it myself eg. new calipers needed, dodgy wheelbearing etc. etc. If it's at the (reputable) garage at least they have the facilities to fix it on the spot.

Many thanks again - I may post how many arms n' legs it cost me

Sirus · Nov 1, 2007

Depends on how many arms and legs it costs yer......unless your a clever dick

Buzzcox · Nov 4, 2007

Hummm, I had my rear disk and pads done, cost over £200, when they checked the front pads they were in a worse state then the rear, Doh!, got the front pads done for £95, I was going to doe them my self but having a '92 vehicle they probably have not been done for years, which was the case, the mechanics sheared a bolt holding on the rear caliper, took them a while to get it out and the bolt was delivered the next day to completed the job. At least I know that when I brake, 2.5 tonnes of metal will stop and not use the vehicle in front.
So in a nut shell if they have not bee done for years get a mechanic or some one that can get sheared bolts out.

The Mad Hat Man · Nov 4, 2007

yu dint get Clutchdust to do it?

Harold 4x4 · Nov 6, 2007

I agree Buzzcox. As it happens I've just had a call from the garage to say its taken them a day to remove just one front disc - not looking good!

I'm off to check the damage later today as it could mean a very hefty bill - but lucky I didn't try it myself as I don't have any 'heavyweight' gear here.

Jason2 · Nov 6, 2007

Harold 4x4 said:
Harold 4x4 said:

I agree Buzzcox. As it happens I've just had a call from the garage to say its taken them a day to remove just one front disc - not looking good!

Click to expand...

OOOOooooooooooooooooerhhh!

I would take them down an angle grinder- Now!

Harold 4x4 · Nov 7, 2007

Yes, Jason. An angle grinder for both front Drive members! It took so long as they were trying not to damage the splines. Normally, if everything is in 'serviceable' condition, it shouldn't be too much hassle, but , I'd have been in trouble if I tried it myself.

Very helpful guys at the Landy specialists (not dealer) and gave some sound advice about tdi 300 in general.

New bearings for the front, replacement drive members, gaskets, allround new discs and pads, new thermostat, and replacement bump-stops.

I doubt I'll see much change from 1200 euros

- but I'll be happy to know it's back in good order.

Changing Discs and pads

Harold 4x4

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Pikey

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Disco Blue

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iannotts

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Sirus

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