Changing compressor on P38

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anorakmark

anorakmark

Active Member
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329
Location
Kent
Hi all,
I'm looking at changing the compressor soon on my 2.5 DSE as the old one is getting a little noisy. Is this a straight forward job, I have been told several different ways.
1 Do you have to depressurize the system
2 Do you need any special software
My friend said he did not depressurize his system and just undone the air line from the compressor?.
Just want to know is it as simple as 1 out and 1 back in, connect up air line & electrics and all should work or are their any hidden problems.
I do not have any EAS software of a kicker to clear any faults that may occour.
 
Removal -
Lid off
Unscrew mounting bolts - don't lose the dished washers and put them back the right way up.
Squeeze and disconnect the electrical plug
Unscrew the pipe underneath.

Fitting -
Reverse procedure

Job done
 
dogsbody said:
Removal -
Lid off
Unscrew mounting bolts - don't lose the dished washers and put them back the right way up.
Squeeze and disconnect the electrical plug
Unscrew the pipe underneath.

Fitting -
Reverse procedure

Job done
Click to expand...

I would add, don't over tighten the nuts that hold down the compressor, take them down until they just lightly nip the washer or the compressor will be very noisy:)
 
Sorry for hijacking the thread, but I need to do this as well. But what I need to know is whether it's worth fitting a new seal (£12 from eBay) or buying a new compressor.

I've heard that people have damaged the new seal when fitting. Also, the compressor will obviously be disconnected for longer when changing the seal - is that going to cause any problems? How can I tell if the piston is worn - or will it be obvious if I take it to bits?

Thanks for any help :)
 
No problem with the compressor off for as long as you like. Don't buy a seal from the Dutch lot Goswin on Ebay, there have been lots of problems. Otherwise a new seal and if the liner is scored a new liner will make your compressor almost as good as new.
 
Took the compressor apart, and the seal has gone one side - not completely, just enough to let air through.

The barrel isn't scored (well, I can't feel any scoring with my fingernail) but does have a couple of black vertical areas. It's also very dull - is this normal, or a sign of wear?

(Car has done 89K)
 
It's a bit difficult to know just from a few words but a dull finish in the cylinder is not unusual. If you want to be certain why not buy a kit that includes a new cylinder?
 
I've checked the barrel/cylinder/liner again for scoring - none. There's also no lip at the top and bottom where the piston would stop. It isn't oval, and the piston fits tightly. So I think it's fine. I've ordered just a seal and filter kit, and I'll see how it goes.

However, the kit comes with two O-rings, one large and one small. I didn't see any O-rings when I took the compressor apart :confused:
 
New seal and filter kit fitted. Took me about 2 hours, mainly taking the old seal off.

But next problem - compressor is now not running. Well, not most of the time. It has run twice, each for a couple of seconds. But suspension is still on the bumpstops. Both the Access and Standard lights are illuminated (neither flashing), and there is no fault light on the dashboard.

Compressor was running beforehand - all the time, due to worn out seal.

I don't have an EAS fault reader - would the light on the dashboard come on if there was a fault?
 
awillemsen said:
New seal and filter kit fitted. Took me about 2 hours, mainly taking the old seal off.

But next problem - compressor is now not running. Well, not most of the time. It has run twice, each for a couple of seconds. But suspension is still on the bumpstops. Both the Access and Standard lights are illuminated (neither flashing), and there is no fault light on the dashboard.

Compressor was running beforehand - all the time, due to worn out seal.

I don't have an EAS fault reader - would the light on the dashboard come on if there was a fault?
Click to expand...

I would expect to see the message EAS Fault on the dash if there was a fault but without reading the fault codes who knows? The compressor will not run if there is a fault. You need the free EAS software from www,rswsolutions.com and a cable which I can supply.:) with that you can read and clear the fault codes and also do things like turn the compressor on and off for testing.
 
An update...

Got cable and EAS software (thanks Datatek) and read fault codes - there were none. Unlocked EAS - but it wasn't locked. Switched compressor on manually via software and it runs. Tested that air is being sucked in (nearly took my skin off :) and blown out the other end - both fine. Ran compressor for about 5 mins to pressurize system.

When the car started, it rose up quickly, but standard height light was still flashing. So, back on with the laptop and ran the compressor manually again for another couple of mins. Started car up again and it rose some more and standard height light stopped flashing.

Then went to access height, and car sank. Tried to lift to standard height again, but did not make it. Repeated several times - each time car rose less, indicating that the pressure tank is emptying.

But compressor is still not running automatically - only manually via EAS software. So, tested the temperature sensor - closed circuit (no resistance) - which means it's OK. Also tested the pressure sensor - open circuit (infinite resistance) - which means system is not pressurized.

Any ideas why compressor is not running? Is it possible that the temp or pressure sensor is cutting out as soon as the compressor starts (it does start but only runs for a second or two)? Is it worth replacing the sensors anyway?
 
awillemsen said:
An update...

Got cable and EAS software (thanks Datatek) and read fault codes - there were none. Unlocked EAS - but it wasn't locked. Switched compressor on manually via software and it runs. Tested that air is being sucked in (nearly took my skin off :) and blown out the other end - both fine. Ran compressor for about 5 mins to pressurize system.

When the car started, it rose up quickly, but standard height light was still flashing. So, back on with the laptop and ran the compressor manually again for another couple of mins. Started car up again and it rose some more and standard height light stopped flashing.

Then went to access height, and car sank. Tried to lift to standard height again, but did not make it. Repeated several times - each time car rose less, indicating that the pressure tank is emptying.

But compressor is still not running automatically - only manually via EAS software. So, tested the temperature sensor - closed circuit (no resistance) - which means it's OK. Also tested the pressure sensor - open circuit (infinite resistance) - which means system is not pressurized.

Any ideas why compressor is not running? Is it possible that the temp or pressure sensor is cutting out as soon as the compressor starts (it does start but only runs for a second or two)? Is it worth replacing the sensors anyway?
Click to expand...

You can easily prove the temperature sensor in the compressor, just short it out. Check to see if you have air coming out of the exhaust on the valve block.
 
Last edited:
If the compressor runs without cutting out, as demanded by EASunlock it is unlikely to be anything to do with temp cut out, more likely switching circuit. Did you take brushes out when you replaced piston seal. If you did i don't know why you played with that bit. But it maybe a brush cable hung up on holder not making proper contact, if it did run but now won't.
 
Last edited:
The compressor does run without cutting out if I manually start it using the EASunlock software.

I didn't take the brushes out when I replaced the seal. However, I did undo the wrong end of the compressor :doh: but did it back up again (without taking the end off) as soon as I realised my mistake.

So, my next job I guess is to take the [wrong] end off again and look inside to see if I can see anything in the wrong place. I will try shorting out the temp sensor too.

And, yes, the compressor was working OK before I started, and now doesn't.
 
Last edited:
awillemsen said:
The compressor does run without cutting out if I manually start it using the EASunlock software.

I didn't take the brushes out when I replaced the seal. However, I did undo the wrong end of the compressor :doh: but did it back up again (without taking the end off) as soon as I realised my mistake.

So, my next job I guess is to take the [wrong] end off again and look inside to see if I can see anything in the wrong place. I will try shorting out the temp sensor too.

And, yes, the compressor was working OK before I started, and now doesn't.
Click to expand...

Be careful the brushes can be a bastard to get back in.
 
Datatek said:
No problem with the compressor off for as long as you like. Don't buy a seal from the Dutch lot Goswin on Ebay, there have been lots of problems. Otherwise a new seal and if the liner is scored a new liner will make your compressor almost as good as new.
Click to expand...

May I say that this a weird thing to say?

Our seals are constantly tested and in development. It is always possible that there is a bad seal (or bad install) that causes a malfunctioning compressor. But we have a 100% feedback score and perhaps even better: we listen to complaints.

If you have a problem with one of our products, just let me know.

But I dare to say that our seals + alloys are pretty okay... Even that good that they are being copied ;)

Regards,
Goswin
 
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