Hi Hippo. I've changed easier clutches but that said, I did my Freelander on my own so, if I can, just about anyone can. I used my car ramps, an engine hoist (to lower the gearbox cos I was on my todd) and gave myself plenty of time. I started by slackening the drive shaft nuts in the center of the front wheels. Then I put the motor on the ramps I have. (just bog standard ramps) Took the front wheels off and supported the vehicle on the ramps, under the lower suspension arms where they attache to the chassis/subframe. I then slackened the bolts in the suspension struts that attach the hub carrier, removing the top bolts (this make it easier when you have to remove the outer ends of both drive shafts). Disconnect the battery and working from the top of the engine remove turbo pipe and starter motor ( be carefull re the crank sensor wire near one of the starter bolts). Remove the bolt securing the metal water pipes to the bell housing (it make moving the pipes out of the way a lot easier) Take off all the top bell housing bolts (keep an eye on the different lengths of bell housing bolts for when they go back) Down the front, remove the wire connector from the gearbox. If yours isn't a hydraulic problem, you'll need to secure the slave cylinder pushrod to prevent it being pushed out when to take it off the side of the g/box, its a sealed system so no facility to bleed these. Support the engine on a jack and the g/box on a hoist (or however you want to do it). Drain the intermediate drive unit (idu)of its oil. Take off the nearside engine mount completely (gives you more room to manuever the g/box) I found I didn't have to take off either the air filter box or the exhaust. Underneath, remove all bell housing bolts, the idu bolts including the hard to see/find one at the back and the adapter plate (again note the different bolt lengths) Take off the engine lower tie rod and its bracket, the support bracket between the engine and bell housing and the various gear links. With both drive shafts disconnected and the idu proshaft disconnected and supported out of the way, the imu will gently lever over to the offside. It dosn't need to move far, just enough to clear the input shaft from the drive gear. If you struggle to seperate the idu from the bell housing, it might be youv'e missed one bolt, they usually come apart quite easily. The O ring around the sleeve over the idu input shaft needs renewing as a matter of course when you come to put it all back. If you havn't drained the idu of its oil, this is where it starts to run out. I found the idu would sit on the subframe crossmember without any problem. You'll need to tilt the engine down at the nearside and, with a bit of levering and a lot of wangling ang twisting, the gearbox will come out and can be lowered to the floor. If I were you, having done all this, I would just renew the whole clutch assembly, the driven and pressure plates and the release bearing. BUT, whatever you do, at this point remove the cross shaft from in the bell housing, clean it up and lube it with the same grease as used in the cv joints. This is the biggest cause of clutch problems on this series of Freelander, well worth doing if your this far. When you've got it all bck together again, I found a length of plastic pipe attached to a funnel was the easiest way to refill the idu. If it's been drained, you know how much it needs to bring it to it correct level again, without all the waiting for it to settle. (you can also do it while still on the ramps with better access to the plug).
Easy it aint but, not as bad as some. Good luck. Let me know if you have any probs (the whole jobs still fresh in my mind would you believe) Let us know how you get on.
Stefan
