Chance of a TD5 help me out

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
B

brettguise

New Member
Posts
282
Location
Stourbridge, West Midlands
Hi guys, well Im sick of chasing the tin worm on my 300tdi and have decided I would like to start looking at a TD5 and making sure I don't get a rotten one and waxyol from the start and keep it for many years.

Theres a nice one round the corner from me that has all the modifcations on it and the engine sounds like a beast. Hes a mechanic at a garage and says that he has serviced it regularly and looked after it. It has around 150k miles, is this too much for a TD5 or is there plenty of life left in it?

He was honest and said the only two problems it has are as follows.

Power steering pipes leaking will need replacing. I've read mixed things on the forum on how easy or difficult this is to replace?

3 Lights on the dash keep coming on, the ABS, Hill Descent and brakes, he says that it is to do with the sensors on the wheels and he can take them off clean them and it stays off for 6/8 months but then comes back. He said when they come on he turns the car off and on and they stay off he said from anything from 3 hours to 3 days.

Is that a bad problem that is costly to fix?

A little help would be much appreciated.
 
This most serious thing to look at when buying a TD5 is the chassis. If this is rotten it's very expensive to put right.

The problem is that the rear end of the chassis can rust REALLY badly - I've seen some that look just like lace.

Sellers will tell you that it's only surface rust and it might be, but in my opinion they rust from the inside out so what you see on the outside has actually penetrated through the chassis wall.

I'm currently looking for another TD5 myself and all the ones that are going for "sensible" money look to have chassis rot, to one degree or another.

Be careful about this, it's a real ball-ache if you get it wrong.

Re your mileage question:150,000mls doesn't worry me in the slightest if it looks like it's been maintained and the seller can show proof of that. If all they have are stamps in a service book then I treat that as having no service history.

Let's face it, if you've paid good money for someone else to service your vehicle, you would keep the garage invoices wouldn't you?

I do all my own servicing, so every time I buy another vehicle I start a spreadsheet showing exactly what and when I've done stuff on the car. Peeps usually find that very reassuring. No evidence - no service history in my book. I have still bought cars without service history, but at a price I considered to be reasonable, or I walk away.

Remember, no matter how much you pay for a car, it's always a chunk of money and the start of a maintenance commitment - if you get it wrong it'll really bite you back !!!!


Re the "three amigos" warning lights on the dash - this is a known problem and is straightforward to resolve usually requiring a new hub, the cost of which is approx £160 plus fitting. This is a serious problem and affects safety and mot, don't be fobbed off !!!!

Good luck

Dave
 
thebiglad said:
This most serious thing to look at when buying a TD5 is the chassis. If this is rotten it's very expensive to put right.

The problem is that the rear end of the chassis can rust REALLY badly - I've seen some that look just like lace.

Sellers will tell you that it's only surface rust and it might be, but in my opinion they rust from the inside out so what you see on the outside has actually penetrated through the chassis wall.

I'm currently looking for another TD5 myself and all the ones that are going for "sensible" money look to have chassis rot, to one degree or another.

Be careful about this, it's a real ball-ache if you get it wrong.

Re your mileage question:150,000mls doesn't worry me in the slightest if it looks like it's been maintained and the seller can show proof of that. If all they have are stamps in a service book then I treat that as having no service history.

Let's face it, if you've paid good money for someone else to service your vehicle, you would keep the garage invoices wouldn't you?

I do all my own servicing, so every time I buy another vehicle I start a spreadsheet showing exactly what and when I've done stuff on the car. Peeps usually find that very reassuring. No evidence - no service history in my book. I have still bought cars without service history, but at a price I considered to be reasonable, or I walk away.

Remember, no matter how much you pay for a car, it's always a chunk of money and the start of a maintenance commitment - if you get it wrong it'll really bite you back !!!!


Re the "three amigos" warning lights on the dash - this is a known problem and is straightforward to resolve usually requiring a new hub, the cost of which is approx £160 plus fitting. This is a serious problem and affects safety and mot, don't be fobbed off !!!!

Good luck

Dave
Click to expand...

Hi Dave thanks for that, he said the back of the chassis is excellent. How easy is the power steering pipe leek? Where abouts on the chassis am I looking, either side of the fuel tank? Walk away even if there is slight surface rust?
 
brettguise said:
Hi Dave thanks for that, he said the back of the chassis is excellent. How easy is the power steering pipe leek? Where abouts on the chassis am I looking, either side of the fuel tank? Walk away even if there is slight surface rust?
Click to expand...


It's a judgement call on the rust mate, truly speaking you want to see little or no rust, but they'll all have a bit as they will be 10-15 years old by now.

You need to look along the chassis rails outside and inside, take a toffee hammer with you and listen to the noise. Start by tapping on obviously good looking metal so you know how it should sound, then go onto the rusty bits. If there's no difference in the noise it should be OK, it it sounds 'dull' than it's not so good.

Re the PAS pipes they are just spanner jobs, nothing to worry about at all.


Dave
 
brettguise said:
You dont think the three amigos would be the module which is big money to fix? Im looking at this

ABS Mod - LAND ROVER CLUB V.I.

Seems an easy fix but theres so much on the internet about it and people throwing money at things that aren't fixing the problem.
Click to expand...

1. SLABS module can be bought 2nd hand from Ebay for £30-50. I've got one at home if you want it?

2. Yes the shuttle valve error can also cause the three amigos, but there is only one way to be sure and that is get it connected to a diagnostic terminal such as T4, Nanocom or Hawkeye - then you'll know for sure.

To be honest these are really quite minor items and easy to fix, by comparison to a rusty chassis :eek::eek:


Dave
 
brettguise said:
You dont think the three amigos would be the module which is big money to fix? Im looking at this

ABS Mod - LAND ROVER CLUB V.I.

Seems an easy fix but theres so much on the internet about it and people throwing money at things that aren't fixing the problem.
Click to expand...

have a look on thed2boysclub and ask someone near by on there locator map to go with you and plug in a tester either hawkeye or nanocom it will tell you what the abs problem is for sure also you can test ecu for problems and basicly diagfnose the full disco if the guys not up for it then he has somthing to hide
 
So if its not something to be worried about ill look for the chassis mainly, anything else to look for? Also I have registered on thed2boysclub thanks for that I will ask if somebody maybe can come and have a look.
 
FWIW I got a couple of hubs from LR Trade spares via ebay - £80 each with 12 month warranty. They told me the hubs were not britpart, but in fact LR trade's own, similar to Bearmach. I'll see what happens. The hubs come with new ABS sensor leads pre-attached too ;)
 
brettguise said:
So if its not something to be worried about ill look for the chassis mainly, anything else to look for? Also I have registered on thed2boysclub thanks for that I will ask if somebody maybe can come and have a look.
Click to expand...


Thers quite a few lad's on there selling up at the moment. You might get a better car from their for sale section.

Good to see you might be returning Dave !!.

Cheers.
 
50 pence said:
Thers quite a few lad's on there selling up at the moment. You might get a better car from their for sale section.

Good to see you might be returning Dave !!.

Cheers.
Click to expand...


Cheers mate that's very kind of you.

The Jag has been for sale for a couple of weeks now and someone came on Sunday to try her. Left a deposit and is coming back for her tomorrow with the balance, so I'll be wedged-up and ready to rock. Just need to find a D2 with a decent rear chassis - which is proving to be a challenge !!!!


Dave
 
I replaced my power steering pipes in about two hours which included taking the radiator out to make the job easier.
It quite an easy DIY job to to the pipe. circa £150 for the pipe
 
PAS pipes are an ok job to do. Make sure you get new o-rings with them ;)

Agree with all the advice ^^^^^, but you'll need some sort of diagnostics unit to keep on top of things. Budget £250-300 for either a Nanocom or Hawkeye. They do come up secondhand, esp on D2Boys so keep looking there.

Lots of very common faults, but all are reasonably easy to fix and not too expensive. Good supply of secondhand parts these days, and some VERY knowledgeable peeps on D2B - listen to Urban Panzer and Sierrafery in particular and you won't go far wrong.

D2 parts are a tad more expensive than D1 parts, so bear that in mind when assessing any problems you find.

BTW, when hunting for rust on a D2, its the rear chassis (rear axle back) that is the usual item quoted, however also have a bloody good look at the top/rear join of the inner wings to the bulkhead. D2s have some spongy soundproofing glued to the bulkhead and unfortunately it sits right into the join with the inner wings. There is no gap to allow water/debris to drain away so it sits there and festers. There have been quite a few people finding holes here lately. I've cut the bottom of the soundproofing away to allow a drain channel - I'd advise you to do the same if/when you get a D2 ;)

HTH
 
[people finding holes here lately. I've cut the bottom of the soundproofing away to allow a drain channel - I'd advise you to do the same if/when you get a D2 ;)

HTH[/quote]
Could you enlighten what you mean please noticed water dripping out the bottom of mine on monday and wondered why but how to cure.some pics of what to look for re chassis.
http://s1227.photobucket.com/user/cambridgecockney/library/chassis%20rep

mine having new rails and crossmember.look at the ones removed. they didnt look too bad until tapped on what we thought was surface rust.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Henryt21
Discovery 2 TD5
Replies
2
Views
331
Henryt21
Henryt21
M
Disco 2 Key ignition turning TD5 off
Replies
11
Views
870
Malestrom
M
C
First time owner and poster
Replies
1
Views
545
Shedload
S
J
Disco 1 my discovery 1 (1995) 2.0 mpi ticking noise..
2
Replies
22
Views
1K
Stanleysteamer
Stanleysteamer
TD5 Pilot
TD5 stalls on hill starts low power
Replies
13
Views
2K
Stanleysteamer
Stanleysteamer
Back
Top