Challenge

Looks like it "J"

I'll give them another half hour to turn up and then I'm off for my afternoon tea:beer2:

Irishrover said:

Looks like it "J"

I'll give them another half hour to turn up and then I'm off for my afternoon tea:beer2:

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Get the Bucket, Sponge, & Claybar out John.......



Go On ....................Yer KNOW yer want to!!!!!

Had my cocktails.
Decided to have a go at the superlocked passenger front door, old long screwdriver, hammer and a couple of clouts on the lock body and it's open.
Came to remove the door card and no screws in it plus signs of a battering on one of the levers on the lock levers...someone has obviously been there before me!!
:mil6:

Irish,
How's the work coming along on the RR bud

Irishrover said:

I hope it doesn't come to an engine rebuild with all them orrible dirty oily bits on the kitchen table. I'll get Gav over for that !!
:hysterically_laughi

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ha ha ha,john you know GAV will have nothing to do with a doozel engine,he dunt know nowt anyway,cept for door locks that is.:behindsofa::bolt:

Hi guys/gals.......Nothing much happened as I was waiting for parts which came today.

Drained the engine oil, I have never seen oil in such a state...absolutely filthy. Changed the filter and filled with fresh oil to the low mark, left the car running to get hot for a while and drained it again, still black as soot but a lot thinner. Replaced the filter and refilled again. Drained the auto box oil, that was manky as well, decided to drop the sump and when I came to undo the dipstick tube the nut was solid and the fitting decided to twist out of the sump, they are only swaged in.Took a pair of 24" stillsons to shift the nut !!. Off to the local welding shop where I managed to get the fitting TIG welded into the sump. Changed the strainer etc. and refilled.
The two new door locks were fitted and the central locking is working a treat.
Next job is check the axle oils and the Transfer Box out, followed by new discs and pads all round. I think I will also replace the brake fluid.
He has 20" wheels fitted and I have found that there are no spigot rings fitted.

I have more scrap oil here than there is in the Gulf of Mexico now!!!

Time for a bit of dinner, followed by a shower and :smokin::beer2::beer2::beer2::beer2:

I've earned it today.

Almost there....Changing the discs and pads on the back today. Removed the R.H. and found one of the caliper guide pins had seized in the carrier, gave it a good dose of Plus Gas and eventually worked it free. Ran a 10mm reamer down the hole to clear the ****e out and polished the pin, coat of copper grease.....sorted.:clap2:
Round to the L.H. rear, last one to do....both guide pins seized, one of them solid. Got the Plus Gas out again, had a fag and a cuppa, one came out with persuasion, the other solid as a rock, tried more persuasion and the feckin pin sheared off
So here's hoping the Main Stealer has the bits on the shelf, the carrier is around £35 and a set of pins around £12 according to the web. If not, I may take a trip to the breakers as the same caliper setup is on the Disco.2 and there are more of those than P38's over here.

All that's left now is Transfer Box and Axle oil changes.

Irishrover said:

Almost there....Changing the discs and pads on the back today. Removed the R.H. and found one of the caliper guide pins had seized in the carrier, gave it a good dose of Plus Gas and eventually worked it free. Ran a 10mm reamer down the hole to clear the ****e out and polished the pin, coat of copper grease.....sorted.:clap2:
Round to the L.H. rear, last one to do....both guide pins seized, one of them solid. Got the Plus Gas out again, had a fag and a cuppa, one came out with persuasion, the other solid as a rock, tried more persuasion and the feckin pin sheared off
So here's hoping the Main Stealer has the bits on the shelf, the carrier is around £35 and a set of pins around £12 according to the web. If not, I may take a trip to the breakers as the same caliper setup is on the Disco.2 and there are more of those than P38's over here.

All that's left now is Transfer Box and Axle oil changes.

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Yer forgetting post No 22 John ....... ..... Claybars at the ready........................And BEGIN!!!!!

I need help from you diesel Gurus.
Changed the fuel filter this morning. Followed the instructions on Rave.
Have slackened the inlet connection to the injector pump and no fuel is coming out. The tank is just under a quarter full. The engine is turning over and trying to fire. It is not immobilised.
The car was starting fine until I changed the filter.
:confused2:

Have just taken the filter off, switched on the ignition and there is no fuel coming through..looks like the pump in the tank isnot running. Have checked the fuse and inertia switch..looks like further work required.

Irishrover said:

Have just taken the filter off, switched on the ignition and there is no fuel coming through..looks like the pump in the tank isnot running. Have checked the fuse and inertia switch..looks like further work required.

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Strange one that. Cannot think of anything you can do to filter to shut pump off. Did you fill new filter with diesel?
Further to this Rave says fuel pump relay is only activated when engine is being cranked. You need to have someone crank whilst you bleed system. OR fill new filter with diesel as i said before, to give engine a chance to start and bleed itself. Hope this helps.

No I didn't fill the filter with diesel, only got petrol here and loads of dirty oil!!
So, just to confirm, the starter has to be operated, not just the ignition switched on ?
Confusing that, as Rave tells me to "With assistance, turn on ignition switch to operate fuel pump. When all air is bled from filter, secure feed pipe at injection pump."
Initially, I will disconnect starter solenoid lead to prevent flattening the battery. If that doesn't work, I'll reconnect the lead.

Thanks for the advice Wammers.
:tea:

Irishrover said:

No I didn't fill the filter with diesel, only got petrol here and loads of dirty oil!!
So, just to confirm, the starter has to be operated, not just the ignition switched on ?
Confusing that, as Rave tells me to "With assistance, turn on ignition switch to operate fuel pump. When all air is bled from filter, secure feed pipe at injection pump."
Initially, I will disconnect starter solenoid lead to prevent flattening the battery. If that doesn't work, I'll reconnect the lead.

Thanks for the advice Wammers.
:tea:

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If you read between the lines it is saying get someone to crank whilst you bleed. Apparently the pump is actuated by the ingition switch whilst cranking. When the engine starts, a voltage balance from the alternator takes over from the ignition switch to hold the pump relay in. I have always filled new filter with clean diesel on every type of vehicle, with the old mechanical pumps it helped a lot. Seems it's still good practice.

Changed my diesol filter out a few weeks ago, turned engine over a few times with foot to floor, after about 5 turns she kicked right in, didn't disconnect anything else, didn't bleed it, nothin... had less than quarter tank!
also did my leak off pipes which might have made a difference, before i did them she would never start when hot

thanks for the updates by the way, doin a front wheel bearing this week, wish me luck

Thanks Guys...appreciated.So I'm off to the garage to get a gallon of diesel.
I disconnected the starter solenoid feed and still nothing. What you are saying Wammers makes sense. I'll keep you posted on the outcome.

Regarding wheel bearing replacement...make sure you have access to a 30ton minimum hydraulic press as they need a good shove to get started, after the initial "Break" they come out with just a fraction of that. The worst part is separating the hubfrom the swivel, they tend to be rusted on solid. If you PM me your email address,I will send you a write up on the procedure based on my first hand experiences.

Cheers again Guys

Irishrover said:

Thanks Guys...appreciated.So I'm off to the garage to get a gallon of diesel.
I disconnected the starter solenoid feed and still nothing. What you are saying Wammers makes sense. I'll keep you posted on the outcome.

Regarding wheel bearing replacement...make sure you have access to a 30ton minimum hydraulic press as they need a good shove to get started, after the initial "Break" they come out with just a fraction of that. The worst part is separating the hubfrom the swivel, they tend to be rusted on solid. If you PM me your email address,I will send you a write up on the procedure based on my first hand experiences.

Cheers again Guys

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I have a 20 ton press that handles them reasonably easily. A rotary wire brush on the circlip groove area to clean off rust helps also.

When I did mine a couple of years go,I was fortunate because they had a 30ton press at work in the Toolroom. The first one took 25 tons to get it free then the pressure dropped to around 10 ton, reducing all the time until it was out. I polished the bore in the lathe with emery cloth and lightly oiled it and the new ones obviously went in easier until the last inch or so when they took about 15tons, gave it an extra tweak, just to make sure it was fully seated.
Tell you what, as you apply the initial pressure and watch the gauge go round, followed by the initial "Bang" thats when you discover Adreniline is brown and runs down your leg !!!
:hysterically_laughi

Irishrover said:

When I did mine a couple of years go,I was fortunate because they had a 30ton press at work in the Toolroom. The first one took 25 tons to get it free then the pressure dropped to around 10 ton, reducing all the time until it was out. I polished the bore in the lathe with emery cloth and lightly oiled it and the new ones obviously went in easier until the last inch or so when they took about 15tons, gave it an extra tweak, just to make sure it was fully seated.
Tell you what, as you apply the initial pressure and watch the gauge go round, followed by the initial "Bang" thats when you discover Adreniline is brown and runs down your leg !!!
:hysterically_laughi

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A bit of heat is a wonderful tool.

Set of bottles and a good cutting nozzle......Toolbox in one !!!

Back from the garage, filled the filter with diesel and she's up & running.

When I change an oil filter, I always fill it before fitting, as I hadn't got any diesel, the filter went on dry.
I'll know next time....Thanks Wammers!!!
raise:

Just waiting for the rear caliper carrier and pins now..should be here tomorrow, then I'm finished.

Irishrover said:

Set of bottles and a good cutting nozzle......Toolbox in one !!!

Back from the garage, filled the filter with diesel and she's up & running.

When I change an oil filter, I always fill it before fitting, as I hadn't got any diesel, the filter went on dry.
I'll know next time....Thanks Wammers!!!
raise:

Just waiting for the rear caliper carrier and pins now..should be here tomorrow, then I'm finished.

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No problem mate. Don't ya get a warm glow sometimes? And not only when ya **** yer pants.